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Wow, Hilly..... that is a great tutorial for drawing Sheridan flowers! In looking at other patterns I have noticed in most of the patterns that other people carve that they take the stem of the flower and curve it either (from the one you have drawn) up and to the left reversing direction so that the next flower mirrors the one you just drew or else down and to the right again reversing direction and mirroring the flower below it. However if you have a large enough area to work with you can use "S" shaped stems and incorporate large leafy areas. Am I wrong in this?

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Posted

Better, but:

The cam lines radiating out from the flower center. They touch the flower center (to look like they are part of the center) and only go out about 3/8". Do not stack the tool out farther, just the first row. Barry King has a tool that is used for this that is better than a cam tool. Looks sort of like a thumbprint but the ends are differant shaped.

Aaron

Posted

Wow, Hilly..... that is a great tutorial for drawing Sheridan flowers! In looking at other patterns I have noticed in most of the patterns that other people carve that they take the stem of the flower and curve it either (from the one you have drawn) up and to the left reversing direction so that the next flower mirrors the one you just drew or else down and to the right again reversing direction and mirroring the flower below it. However if you have a large enough area to work with you can use "S" shaped stems and incorporate large leafy areas. Am I wrong in this?

I think some people interpret things differently than others. I always see figure eights. One circle (or vine) spinning clockwise, the next spinning counterclockwise. The flowers themselves may appear at any angle within the circle, as long as the vines and stems spin opposite directions from adjoining one. Sometimes I forgo a flower, and stick in a large leaf or two within the vine swirl. Empty areas can be filled with scrolls, buds or acanthus leaf. One of the ideas behind a lot of Sheridan work is to leave as little background area as possible, but this is not necessarily always the case. I also feel that the more texture there is within each separate flower and vine, the more interest it has for the viewer. I commonly use lined thumbprints, interesting veiners or wigglers, flower center shaders, leaf liners, varied flower centers, cam tools and deco cuts to add interest. Also, balance in the design itself is important.

I just wish I didn't have so much trouble drawing my own designs. It sounds easy, but to me it is not easy. I might work on a new design for weeks before I feel it looks okay. Maybe I'm too critical. Anyway, I hope someone can get something out of my little tutorial.

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Posted

howdy gang

me again took me most the afternoon but i got a pattern for just a coaster like thing dont not sure how good it is but ill show ya just for the advice LOL

thanks for all the help

Cowboy316

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Posted

ok Gang after several trys and retries i think ive got the hang of it here is a pic of the latest attempt and sheridan style drawing

all and any pointers are welcome

thanks for the help

Cowboy316

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Posted

ok Gang after several trys and retries i think ive got the hang of it here is a pic of the latest attempt and sheridan style drawing

all and any pointers are welcome

thanks for the help

Cowboy316

Almost there. Now take the leaf directly left of your stem and bring it to the main vine, and either bring it outside, or tuck it under (study the flower in my tutorial). The way you have your vine right now is reminiscent of a coil, not a circle.

The way you have some of your little stickers ending in scrolls is unique. I like it a lot.

Posted

Cowboy 316,

It would be well worth your time and money to acquire "Sheridan Style Carving" by Bob Likewise. It costs somewhere around $30, I think. If you will read that book and follow Bill Gardners examples as he teaches drawing Sheridan patterns you will jump forward by leaps and bounds. The book addresses tools as well and provides a lot of great tooling examples from some of the great Sheridan style toolers. I have been tooling since the mid sixties and I still refer to this book from time to time. If tooling were a college course, "Sheridan Style Carving" would be the text book. I have no affiliation here, I just know how much great info is in this book.

Hope this helps...

Bobby.

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Posted

Cowboy 316,

Like Hidepounder suggests... study that book and anyones work you can!

I commend you on taking the time and initiave to take a piece of scrap and see what you can do, and how it works out, then ask others what they think. It's where you improve and get ideas from!

I somewhat recognize styles and where they come from, but I'm pretty limited on what/where I speak from. I'm also on dialup, so that kinda limits the time frame I take to dowmload pictures.

I did download your last picture, and it did look good! The only thing I would change is where it ties back into the circle. IMO it should have no beginning nor ending in that type of arrangement. If you want to continue it on, you can bring it out in place of a stob, or make a crossover. Just throw some feeling at it!

There are times that you can start out of a corner, or "hidden spot", but you have to finesse the beginning to make it look graceful. I went down to the dungeon and pulled some scrapings off the wall to hopefully give you an idea of what I mean. The beginning of the right one could have been better "finessed" to amke it appear more graceful. These are just scrap/cut offs pieces that I've played on when I had a chance.

Never waste a piece of leather if you want to improve your stamping... it all takes time, patience, and fortitude. I hope I never get to the point where I'm done improving.

Gary

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