Proper Sequence For Dying, Staining, And Finishing

[ces]

Hello All,

Being new to leather working I spend a lot of time reading and looking on this forum, but

the more I read the more confused I get. I need some guidance on the proper sequence or

steps for finishing my projects, tooling then dye then oil then antique then finish of choice, or

tool then oil then dye, antique and finish. I also would like to know what finish is compatible

with what dye and or antique. Also I have a question about two layer belts, do they need to

be glued up flat or on some type of round or oval form? Any and all help, advice, or pointers

would really be appreciated, thanks in advance, CHARLES.

[Penden]

Gluing on a flat surface is fine. Just make sure you sew them. That strengthens them and keeps them from bending when bent.

[terrymac]

Charles,

I am no expert, but here is my sequence:

1.

[terrymac]

Charles,

I am no expert, but here is my sequence:

1. Tool

2. Dye (in my case, is normally background)

3. Apply neatsfoot oil and let set 24 hours.

4. Thin coat of resist if I am going to use Fiebing's antique paste. For a resist I use is Neat Lac, you would have to find a substitute product as Neat Lac does not exist anymore, but you can find the same product now called Clear Lac. This can be obtained as Panhandle Leather in Amarillo, Tx., and is also available under some other names. Let resist dry for 24 hours.

5. Apply antique and wipe off

6. Another coat of Neat Lac.

One word of caution is I have learned the hard way is that Tandy's Eco product line and Neat Lac do not mix.

Hope this helps

Terry

[pete]

Charles,

I am no expert, but here is my sequence:

1. Tool

2. Dye (in my case, is normally background)

3. Apply neatsfoot oil and let set 24 hours.

4. Thin coat of resist if I am going to use Fiebing's antique paste. For a resist I use is Neat Lac, you would have to find a substitute product as Neat Lac does not exist anymore, but you can find the same product now called Clear Lac. This can be obtained as Panhandle Leather in Amarillo, Tx., and is also available under some other names. Let resist dry for 24 hours.

5. Apply antique and wipe off

6. Another coat of Neat Lac.

One word of caution is I have learned the hard way is that Tandy's Eco product line and Neat Lac do not mix.

Hope this helps

Terry

I think that you will have better results if you tool and then oil. The oil needs to be restored but the dye penetrates better and more evenly if applied after. The pores open up and accept the dye better.

pete

[ces]

I think that you will have better results if you tool and then oil. The oil needs to be restored but the dye penetrates better and more evenly if applied after. The pores open up and accept the dye better.

pete

Penden, Terry, and Pete

I really appreciate the responce and advice, I am sorry it took this long to get back to ya'll, I do have one more question which is when doing an oak leaf belt using the lifting technique what type of finish do I use in order to maintain the lift, and also at what point or step do you preform the lifting? I tried lifting during the tooling process but my problem is I have to relift after dying, and again after each step I do, if that makes any sense to you, again I really appreciate any and all help and advice, thanks CHARLES.

[pete]

Penden, Terry, and Pete

I really appreciate the responce and advice, I am sorry it took this long to get back to ya'll, I do have one more question which is when doing an oak leaf belt using the lifting technique what type of finish do I use in order to maintain the lift, and also at what point or step do you preform the lifting? I tried lifting during the tooling process but my problem is I have to relift after dying, and again after each step I do, if that makes any sense to you, again I really appreciate any and all help and advice, thanks CHARLES.

I learned from Chan Geer to trace, cut , pear shade and then lift or undercut in that order. I shade the leaf tips so as not to deform them, then I use the lifter. For me it greatly speeds up the beveling process as the "pockets" are already dug in and I can zip around the leaf. Some like to bevel around a piece and then lift, still others like to background before they do it.

I have found that I like to do it as above. Tha's me.

As to the other question- when I first started I had a heck of a time oiling and finishing and having all that nice lifting go flat on me. Let the leather really dry out before you apply a LIGHT amount of oil. Neats will really soften the leather and if you use too much or press it in to heavily it will smash down the lifted tips as well as the other tooling. All you are trying to do is to replenish the lost oil from wetting.

Go easy and lightly-I tip the neats onto the scrap and then scrape it across the top of the jar so as to get a "film" of oil to lightly spread. Let it dry(soak in) and you should be good.

If you are doing really deep lifting then you can always fill the holes with cotton to keep them tall- then pull them out when you antique. If you use neatlac or an acrilic to resist- let it dry well. it dries hard and should firm up the lifted tips.

Slop on the antique (paste) and get it into the lifted tips! Then take a paper towel and rub off the surface layer really well. Then take a wool scrap and "buff" it. It will pick most all of the antique out of the groves leaving the deepest ones.

pete

[ces]

I learned from Chan Geer to trace, cut , pear shade and then lift or undercut in that order. I shade the leaf tips so as not to deform them, then I use the lifter. For me it greatly speeds up the beveling process as the "pockets" are already dug in and I can zip around the leaf. Some like to bevel around a piece and then lift, still others like to background before they do it.

I have found that I like to do it as above. Tha's me.

As to the other question- when I first started I had a heck of a time oiling and finishing and having all that nice lifting go flat on me. Let the leather really dry out before you apply a LIGHT amount of oil. Neats will really soften the leather and if you use too much or press it in to heavily it will smash down the lifted tips as well as the other tooling. All you are trying to do is to replenish the lost oil from wetting.

Go easy and lightly-I tip the neats onto the scrap and then scrape it across the top of the jar so as to get a "film" of oil to lightly spread. Let it dry(soak in) and you should be good.

If you are doing really deep lifting then you can always fill the holes with cotton to keep them tall- then pull them out when you antique. If you use neatlac or an acrilic to resist- let it dry well. it dries hard and should firm up the lifted tips.

Slop on the antique (paste) and get it into the lifted tips! Then take a paper towel and rub off the surface layer really well. Then take a wool scrap and "buff" it. It will pick most all of the antique out of the groves leaving the deepest ones.

pete

Pete,

Once again thanks for the advice and pointers, that's a really neat trick, filling the holes with cotton, gotta try that. One last question, in your opinion, will LEXOL do the same thing as neatsfoot oil as that is what I have on hand and if not I will just have to pick up some neatsfoot oil. Thanks again for the info and I really like this FORUM, lots of super info and super people to help people like myself with our problems, Big Thanks again, CHARLES

[pete]

Pete,

Once again thanks for the advice and pointers, that's a really neat trick, filling the holes with cotton, gotta try that. One last question, in your opinion, will LEXOL do the same thing as neatsfoot oil as that is what I have on hand and if not I will just have to pick up some neatsfoot oil. Thanks again for the info and I really like this FORUM, lots of super info and super people to help people like myself with our problems, Big Thanks again, CHARLES

If you are not going to do anything with the leather(antique,stain, dye, etc) then you can get by with Lexol. It's really a cleaner/softener,restorer. You need to get the the oil back into the leather that it lost when you wet it. Neats is not really oil and it sure isn't what came out of the hide of an animal but it works. So does olive oil and 10/30 SAE.

Get some pure neats NOT COMPOUND .

We're always open here so feel free to post and don't forget fotos!!!!

glad you're here!

pete

[ces]

If you are not going to do anything with the leather(antique,stain, dye, etc) then you can get by with Lexol. It's really a cleaner/softener,restorer. You need to get the the oil back into the leather that it lost when you wet it. Neats is not really oil and it sure isn't what came out of the hide of an animal but it works. So does olive oil and 10/30 SAE.

Get some pure neats NOT COMPOUND .

We're always open here so feel free to post and don't forget fotos!!!!

glad you're here!

pete

Thanks PETE will purchase the neatsfoot as I do intend to dye and or stain, glad I'm here too, so much info, months of reading, lots of help, plus all the tutorials, and pics of really beautiful leather work, Thank you all, CHARLES.