Denster Posted March 19, 2010 Report Posted March 19, 2010 Thanks! I actually had to rip the stitches out of one tonight - it was natural. I'm wondering if the natural, un-dyed leather affects tension? I sewed another holster without any problems, but the natural all the sudden wasn't pulling the top thread down into the leather very well. So frustrating getting tension adjusted sometimes. Natural leather is easier to pull the thread through than dyed. If you leave the tension set for natural you should be good to go with either. Always a good idea to keep a couple of glued up strips of scrap by the machine and run a line of stitches before you start to work for real. Catches those little problems before they happen. Quote
Members mmirob Posted April 6, 2010 Members Report Posted April 6, 2010 Just so impressive. As a fellow tippmann user, I hope I can ever get that good on my machine. Do you even back stitch? Do you use the same size thread on your bobbin? Do you air brush your dye? Regular fiebings dye? I just cant seem to get my dye to finish so uniformly. Denster feel free to chime in. Quote
Denster Posted April 6, 2010 Report Posted April 6, 2010 Just so impressive. As a fellow tippmann user, I hope I can ever get that good on my machine. Do you even back stitch? Do you use the same size thread on your bobbin? Do you air brush your dye? Regular fiebings dye? I just cant seem to get my dye to finish so uniformly. Denster feel free to chime in. I use 346 top and 277 bottom poly thread. I try to plan my stitchruns so I overstitch 3 or 4 stitches on an outside edge. Back stitching where necessary is easy just take a little pressure off your presserfoot and back up and put the needle through the hole. I know that Eric (Particle) airbrushes his dye. Check out his website and click on the how it's made link. Neat video that will give you a lot of answers. Quote
Members particle Posted April 6, 2010 Members Report Posted April 6, 2010 Just so impressive. As a fellow tippmann user, I hope I can ever get that good on my machine. Do you even back stitch? Do you use the same size thread on your bobbin? Do you air brush your dye? Regular fiebings dye? I just cant seem to get my dye to finish so uniformly. Denster feel free to chime in. Thanks - I do back stitch. Actually, I over stitch. What I usually do is run a test stitch on scraps of the same thickness as my holster. Then, I'll measure the stitch holes to see what spacing I'm getting over a distance of about 4 holes - usually, 4 stitches is about 3/4" if I recall correctly off the top of my head. Then, I'll transfer that 3/4" dimension from one corner on my holster, and measure 3/4" prior to that and mark a tiny hole. This is where I start stitching. Stitch all the way around, and then back over the initial 3/4" long section you started with. Make sense? I've found that turning corners (and rotating the piece around 180 to lock the stitch) can affect tension, resulting in exposed bobbin or needle thread. I just think it's easier to over stitch instead of back stitch. Regarding the dye, I'm using the Fiebing's Pro Oil dyes - they seem to even out much better than the regular dye. Airbrushing it is the key. Quote Eric Adamswww.adamsleatherworks.com | Facebook | YouTube | Instagram
Members gregintenn Posted April 12, 2010 Members Report Posted April 12, 2010 This is not what you want to do. Particle just recently made a beautiful rig for a 4" Crimson Carry, so I take his advice as solid. Note the difference in the dust covers between those 3 sizes he illustrates with his photo. This is exactly why you don't want to do what gregintenn suggested. It's always best to use the right tools for the job. I've sold at least 20 standard pancake holsters molded to a Colt Gold Cup, with the bottom open, to guys who carry a wide array of different sized 1911's in them and have had nothing but positive feedback as to the retention and performance of my holsters. Your experience may vary. I offer a full moneyback guarantee if you aren't satisfied for any reason, and have yet to have any takers. Quote
Members dickf Posted April 12, 2010 Members Report Posted April 12, 2010 I stand by my first statement in that it is the wrong thing to do. If you see nothing wrong with a 3" gun floating around in a holster made from a 5" gun, that's fine. That methodology is not up to my standards and I think it can pose a safety concern, as well. I also think you'd be hard pressed to find a veteran holster maker that would disagree. Quote US GUNLEATHER www.usgunleather.com twitter.com/usgunleather facebook.com/USGUNLEATHER
Denster Posted April 13, 2010 Report Posted April 13, 2010 I stand by my first statement in that it is the wrong thing to do. If you see nothing wrong with a 3" gun floating around in a holster made from a 5" gun, that's fine. That methodology is not up to my standards and I think it can pose a safety concern, as well. I also think you'd be hard pressed to find a veteran holster maker that would disagree. Might want to rethink that a bit. As long as the holster was adjusted for length the only variation in any other dimensions would be that tiny 1/4" long transition between the dust cover and recoil spring guide to the end of the barrel. Not boning in that detail would have zero affect on retention. If you just had to have it, just retract the gun until 1/4" of the transition is inside the holster and finish it out. Hardley what I would call floating around. I'm all for using the right tool for the job but not everyone has the luxury of all he tools. I fail to see any potential safety issues. Quote
Members dickf Posted April 13, 2010 Members Report Posted April 13, 2010 We'll just have to agree to disagree then. Quote US GUNLEATHER www.usgunleather.com twitter.com/usgunleather facebook.com/USGUNLEATHER
Denster Posted April 13, 2010 Report Posted April 13, 2010 We'll just have to agree to disagree then. Agreed! A bit of possibly useful information. The length of the dustcover on the various sizes of 1911s registering from the front of the triggerguard to the end of the dustcover is (5" barrel 2" to end of DC) (4.25, 4, 3.5" barrel 1&3/4" to end of DC) (3" barrel 1&1/2" to end of DC) This is not a close tolerance dimension and will vary a few thousandths between guns. Quote
Members gregintenn Posted April 13, 2010 Members Report Posted April 13, 2010 We'll just have to agree to disagree then. Fair enough. I don't claim to begin to have the knowledge or skill most of you have. I answered the OP's question with the benefit of the limited experience I've had. As I get most of the retention around the triggerguard and slide area, The other pistols aren't exactly "floating around". You do bring up a very interesting point I've pondered about a safety issue. I wonder if there are any holster makers who've had to defend themselves against any type of liability lawsuit. Do you who are professionals carry liability insurance? Quote
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