Conditioning New Boots -

[HorsehairBraider]

Mr. HorsehairBraider just got a new pair of boots, and he was told to spray them with a mixture of water and rubbing alcohol 4 times a day to break them in and make the leather better.

Now, that goes against everything I know about leather - wouldn't that make them dry out? But I'll be the first to admit there is always more to learn so I ask the forum - is this a good idea? If it is a good idea, please explain how it works! If it is *not* a good idea, could you please advise what he should do instead?

I would have thought using a good conditioner - like Lexol, or even neat's foot oil used sparingly, would be a better plan, but I admit I might be wrong! What does everyone think?

[Beaverslayer]

Back in the day when I wore cowboy boots, we always used "Dubin" on them. Not sure if it's still around or not, but I think I read in another post something about it as well.

Ken

[Hedge]

That sure doesn't register right in my book, either.

Recommendations:

Dr. Jackson's leather conditioner. Darkens as it's applied but goes back to original color when absorbed.

(btw-you can use it on callouses...does a great job on softening them. )

Skidmore's leather cream. Has bee's wax in it so needs some buffing afterwards.

[wyoming]

Alcohol and water equal boot stretch, can be used to stretch tight spots. Never use neatsfoot oil on chrome tan leather. I personally like skidmores or any good conditioner with bees wax. Black rock is good on some boot leathers too, works especially good on shark, almost makes it like a pull up or oil tan leather.John

[HorsehairBraider]

Thanks for the insight, guys! I appreciate it. I will pass on your information.

Luckily the boots are black so no worries about the color changing. They are for his firefighting this summer. Color is the last thing he is concerned about!

[superchute]

try leather new works great to soften and help them break in then I us kewi stpray to repel the water works great try 2 coats of it

Russ

[cem]

Back in the day when I wore cowboy boots, we always used "Dubin" on them. Not sure if it's still around or not, but I think I read in another post something about it as well.

Ken

Dubbin is still readily available in Australia it's the one leather conditioner I can buy all most anywhere, we use it for boots and sports goods (footballs).

Clair

[bruce johnson]

Thanks for the insight, guys! I appreciate it. I will pass on your information.

Luckily the boots are black so no worries about the color changing. They are for his firefighting this summer. Color is the last thing he is concerned about!

HorseHair,

This explains a lot. I have heard that breaking a pair of White's firecrew boots almost approaches doctrine and religion. It also goes against most of what the rest of us know about boot care. I have heard of using the shoe stretch before. I have also heard of filling them with water, letting it sit for while, pouring it out and wearing them for an hour or so. Let them slowly dry and do it again a few times, then condition them with the grease of choice. You might contact some dealers in Whites and see what they recommend.

[barra]

A former Infantryman's view on breaking in boots.

Bruces idea of filling the boots with water and then wearing them is probably the most common. I would add make it warm water until the leather is good and soaked then wear them wet with the same sized socks you would normally wear. Yes it feels squishy at first but the boots will mold you your feet. Another variation is to stuff the boots with wet paper. As for the rubbing alcohol. I would use that on your feet to toughen them up and not the boot leather. With our boots we would sometimes give the new and wet boots a few whacks of a mallet on the back spine (we would call this breaking the spine). This went a long way toward minimising blisters.

Barra

[Gibbsleatherworks]

A former Infantryman's view on breaking in boots.

Bruces idea of filling the boots with water and then wearing them is probably the most common. Barra

I have been an irrigator for 12 years now and dont know of any other profession that is harder on boots than us. My feet spend alot of time in water and mud and its a miracle if a pair lasts a year. The best breakin I can recommend is with water as mentioned above. I usually make sure the soals are well water proofed before wearing them on the job, but after a day of walking in a new pair while keeping them wet makes them very comfortable afterwards.

[David]

I have been an irrigator for 12 years now and dont know of any other profession that is harder on boots than us. My feet spend alot of time in water and mud and its a miracle if a pair lasts a year. The best breakin I can recommend is with water as mentioned above. I usually make sure the soals are well water proofed before wearing them on the job, but after a day of walking in a new pair while keeping them wet makes them very comfortable afterwards.

Very similar to what my son did with his new kangaroo skin soccer (futbol) boots. He would lace his new boots on with two pairs of socks, then stand in a tub of warm water until they were completely soaked through....then he would play soccer, or just run and pass the ball around for about 30 minutes....then he carefully removed the laces and carefully removed the boots and allowed them to air dry. After that they felt like custom made boots, made just for his feet. Of course they were made to last just a season maybe 15 games and 30 or so practices. Pricey for $140 boots.

Dave Theobald

Edited April 16, 2008 by David

[SCOUTER]

HorseHair, I have to agree with Barra and the above posters... 20 years ago USMC Infantry style boot break-in involved a tight lace up followed by some immersion in water (usually by humping thru a swamp) and then sitting in the sun for a couple of hours while cleaning our weapons. The result boots that fit like a glove! aka-wetforming. Spraying a boot with a water/alcohol mix without wearing them in my opinion wouldn't do anything.

[HorsehairBraider]

Yeah Scouter - I just don't get the alcohol! I think they meant you should be wearing the boots whilst spraying it with this mixture, but then, soaking in water to form the leather makes a lot more sense to me. Simply spraying it does not seem like it would do the job, but like I say, I am always open to learning new things. The person who "knows everything" can't learn anything.

I'd like to thank everyone for their replies. This has helped me see the matter more clearly.

[TroyS]

I've ALWAYS bought my new boots, filled them with water, poured it out then walked as long as my feet could stand it. That broke in the boot and stretched it to fit my foot, then I would polish them with mink oil (4 or 5 coats) and that would make them soft as a baby's ! I'm no expert, but my feet are, and they told me to tell that story ....

Troy

[Gibbsleatherworks]

Thats right, I forgot to mention mink oil.

[faceOdd]

During my Army days, I used the water method mentioned above but instead of filling the boots with warm water, I filled the bathtub with warm water and tromped around in it for awhile. It was more comfortable to make the boots wet and squishy while wearing them than to put them on that way. It's important to keep them on and walk around in them for quite awhile, so I don't recommend doing this on a cold day. The water squeezes out through the course of the day, so it's a good outdoor activity. A nice hot shower and some fluffy slippers or warm, dry socks are a welcome treat at the end of the day's process. Some black Kiwi boot polish after they've dried will bring them back to looking new on the outside, and they'll 'fit like a glove' on the inside.

~Tammy

[Knife Knut]

I wonder how well these wet form techniques would work on steel toe boots.

Edit:

Actually I would be worried the steel toes would rust, but the newfangled composite toe caps wouldnt have that problem

Edited April 12, 2010 by Knife Knut