Slipping the Clutch

[particle]

We all know it's bad to slip the clutch in an automobile...

Is it bad to slip the clutch on a sewing machine to constantly make it go slow?

I'm thinking about modifying the connector rod on my machine that I just picked up tonight - the rod that connects the foot pedal to the lever on the motor. I figure if I move the connector point closer to the hinge, I'll reduce the sensitivity of the motor speed. Yes, I'll probably lose some top-end speed, but I don't really want it to go that fast right now anyway.

Another thing I might try is putting a speed limiter under the pedal - limit its travel. There may already be something like this in the mechanics of the lever on the motor, but I haven't had the machine long enough to notice.

So, slipping - bad?

I may have a guy in Australia that wants to become a distributor of my Flip Rest (rifle rest), so I would like to do something quick and inexpensive if it won't damage the machine.

[bruce johnson]

A few suggestions that range from $150 to nearly free. First off for $150, a servo motor will adjust from one stitch every three seconds to wide open ripping. The dial on the motor controls the top end, and they have what seems like incredible torque. I can pedal on both of mine now and have all the control or speed I want. For a little less money than that, does your setup have a speed reducer pulley system between the motor and the machine? If not it will slow you down too. Regarding changing the attachment of the rod, I never got that much control change doing it. A pretty small amount of travel in that arm makes all the speed change. Hard to get that adjustment right for me. So the final suggestion that is almost free. Put a tennis ball under the pedal. It has just enough give to let you sew, and enough resistance to keep you from hitting the gas too hard or fast. I got that info from an old buddy.

[Kevin]

One more thing that is overlooked sometimes, is that there is a brake if you put your heel down on the bottom of the pedal. I've seen some people toe and heel for control. Kevin

[particle]

Thanks for the response fellas. I'll definitely be shopping for a servo motor in the near future. I didn't realize you could adjust the top-end with a dial. That's pretty cool!

For now, I'll give the tennis ball a try - that's a good tip.

[Ronny]

A few suggestions that range from $150 to nearly free. First off for $150, a servo motor will adjust from one stitch every three seconds to wide open ripping. The dial on the motor controls the top end, and they have what seems like incredible torque. I can pedal on both of mine now and have all the control or speed I want. For a little less money than that, does your setup have a speed reducer pulley system between the motor and the machine? If not it will slow you down too. Regarding changing the attachment of the rod, I never got that much control change doing it. A pretty small amount of travel in that arm makes all the speed change. Hard to get that adjustment right for me. So the final suggestion that is almost free. Put a tennis ball under the pedal. It has just enough give to let you sew, and enough resistance to keep you from hitting the gas too hard or fast. I got that info from an old buddy.

Bruce a short question for you on the Servo motors. I bought a new machine with a Servo motor. Had to replace motor in the first month.(machine was a demo) It is a Sewpro 441. Do I need to run a speed reducer with this motor? I have never used a Servo before and it seems to lack power. Thanks, Ronny

[bruce johnson]

Ronny,

I have servo motors on my 1245 and my Ferdco 2000 and the 2000 that Barra bought from me. The 2000s are like your Sewpro 441 I think. They both have speed reducers, and I have more torque than with the original clutch motors they came with. Especially at slow speeds it just moves on through without help. I had an Adler 205-64 I put a servo on, and same experience there. If you try to handwheel and hit the pedal, it will throw your hand off. I can't hold the wheel and slip it like the clutch motor. That was the bigeest thing for me to learn was not to instinctively reach up to slow the wheel down. You don't need to with the speed control. The other thing is that when you shut it off, it is OFF. You know how with a clutch motor you shut it off, and then if you hit the pedal, it may still run on a few sttiches? Mine always did that when I was in the middle of a bobbin change and accidentally hit the pedal. That will wake you up. The servo motor is dead off as soon as you hit the switch.

Apparently there are a few different servo motors out there. I got mine from Ferdco. The original has a set screw to adjust the speed setting, the newer ones have a dial. Artisan has them as well, and apparently they are getting or have a reasonably priced needle positioning motor too.

[gunfighter48]

Thanks for the response fellas. I'll definitely be shopping for a servo motor in the near future. I didn't realize you could adjust the top-end with a dial. That's pretty cool!

For now, I'll give the tennis ball a try - that's a good tip.

I have a servo motor on my Neels model 5 machine and it also has a low/high switch besides the dial on the back of the motor. You can really slow down the machine (with out the speed reducing pulley system, all though that will slow it down even more). Servo motors develope all their maximum torque at any speed. Clutch motors have to be running at full speed to develope their maximum torque. Get the servo motor as soon as you can, you won't regret it.

John