Order Of Things

[saxxin]

Thank you guys so much for the input. I've pretty much finished this one. For the final coat, am planning on trying a 50/50 mixture of neatsfoot oil and beeswax. The leather I was using was 6-7 oz which was the stuff on sale at Tandy. It had all sorts of scratches in it - like it had been thrown down in the parking lot a few times or something. I first soaked the leather and slicked it - mostly to see if I could minimize the road rash it look like it had. A couple of things that I've noticed right off the bat was that the stitch lines around the trigger guard have a funky angle to them. I'll correct that on my next pattern. I think I'll probably shorten the length of the pattern on the next one too because the muzzle just seems to be sitting up in there a little too far. The belt loops look stinkin bad - I think this is because I put a belt blank in while wet molding and formed the holster to how I thought it would sit on my hip. The plan is to get a punch made to make these uniform, so maybe that will help in the future.

I'm not made of glass and am here to learn, so please don't be gentle with me.

[MADMAX22]

Turned out really nice. Congrats

[saxxin]

Turned out really nice. Congrats

Thanks. I would have uploaded more pics but one was all I could post and stay in the limit. Not that computer savvy, so I guess I'm gonna have to find out how to make my picture files smaller.

[MADMAX22]

Thanks. I would have uploaded more pics but one was all I could post and stay in the limit. Not that computer savvy, so I guess I'm gonna have to find out how to make my picture files smaller.

What operating system do you have?

If you have windows you can use paint to resize the photos manually, its not overly difficult once you figure it out.

Also there are variouse photo editing tools that you can download for free allthough they range in difficulty to use.

[Vikefan]

Saxxin, Just my two cents. First, I expect that you are using 8/9 oz leather for your holsters, most makers do.........of course I'm a little different. Almost all of my holsters are made from two layers of either 3/4 oz or 4/5 oz (depending on the weight and size of the weapon to be holstered) bonded (glued) together rough (flesh) side to flesh side. This ends up giving my holsters a smooth interior as well as the outside. I use a good quality of shoulder leather. I case my leather (I use a DAMP, clean sponge to MOISTEN, NOT SOAK, the surface of the leather) and transfer my pattern with a ball stylus. I initially cut my pattern with a swivel knife the follow with a 'dedicated' cutter. Pic. (Mine is a 70+ yr old Murphy knife) for a very clean cut. I 'dry' fit all areas and trim if necessary. I bevel all edges except the welt, case the leather, run my stitching gouge then my overstitch to mark the stitches. Allow to dry then dye all parts. Allow to dry. I saddle stitch all areas except the welt, then burnish all edges....except the welt. Glue places needed as necessary while stitching. NOTE: Since all edges of my stuff are stitched, timing for the gluing of pieces together is something that must be worked out in advance. Finally I, glue up the welt, stitch, and burnish the edge. Wet the thing down, mold, and let dry thoroughly. Apply finish. The same steps are followed is using a single thickness of leather....but you won't have to do so much stitching. The only time there is a need to run a glass slicker (and you are not 'casing' your leather, you are soaking your leather) is when you are doing carving and stamping designs on/in pieces of leather that need to maintain their exact dimensions. Many carvers will allow the leather to dry after the slicking (which is to reduce stretching during carving and stamping) then use rubber cement to affix the piece to a sheet of slick sided poster board prior to doing that kind of work. This further reduces stretching. No need or reason to do it when making holsters. Here's a pic or two of a quick, toss together holster showing all the stitching I mentioned. OK, I think it takes longer to tell about it than to do it, but that's the way I do things......pretty close to most people I think.....and, of course, the advice is worth all you paid for it. Mike

I recently had trouble basically doing my fathers holster, in the order you have listed. My Tandy Pro stitching groover slipped on me when putting a stitching groove into the leather (everything was done, except sewing and dying). Now I have to start over... I've been told it is probably better to put the stitch groove in the leather, before one bevels the edges...

Live and Learn I guess... Still a little P.O'd I made this mistake on this almost completed project.

Vikefan

[katsass]

I recently had trouble basically doing my fathers holster, in the order you have listed. My Tandy Pro stitching groover slipped on me when putting a stitching groove into the leather (everything was done, except sewing and dying). Now I have to start over... I've been told it is probably better to put the stitch groove in the leather, before one bevels the edges...

Live and Learn I guess... Still a little P.O'd I made this mistake on this almost completed project.

Vikefan

Vikefan, Personally I think you will be better off with the more original 'Adjustable Stitching Groover" (the pro thing is rather new). I bought one of the new 'Pro" models, and found that it was VERY easy to slip with it. The older style has the cutter on the little extension, where the new 'Pro' model has it on the handle end. It seems easier to me to control the handle end and keep it down on the edge of the leather and allow the little cutter to do it's thing, rather than trying to keep the gouge down on the leather and allowing the 'guide' to stay over the edge. It may be that I'm more used to the old style, but I'm also left handed and every tool that is, is built for right-handers so I have to work things out in my own way anyhow. The new one is just sitting (out of the way) on my bench, mostly unused after some initial tries. And yes, it is easier to make your groove and mark the stitch length prior to running your edger. I must sand all edges early on because I stitch ALL cut edges, and even fold my holsters over and align the main seam edge, tack it down with a few spots of contact cement and sand it so that front side and back are even. I then cut it apart, lay it flat and run my groover. After stitching I run my edger. Mike

Edited October 15, 2011 by katsass

[Vikefan]

Vikefan, Personally I think you will be better off with the more original 'Adjustable Stitching Groover" (the pro thing is rather new). I bought one of the new 'Pro" models, and found that it was VERY easy to slip with it. The older style has the cutter on the little extension, where the new 'Pro' model has it on the handle end. It seems easier to me to control the handle end and keep it down on the edge of the leather and allow the little cutter to do it's thing, rather than trying to keep the gouge down on the leather and allowing the 'guide' to stay over the edge. It may be that I'm more used to the old style, but I'm also left handed and every tool that is, is built for right-handers so I have to work things out in my own way anyhow. The new one is just sitting (out of the way) on my bench, mostly unused after some initial tries. And yes, it is easier to make your groove and mark the stitch length prior to running your edger. I must sand all edges early on because I stitch ALL cut edges, and even fold my holsters over and align the main seam edge, tack it down with a few spots of contact cement and sand it so that front side and back are even. I then cut it apart, lay it flat and run my groover. After stitching I run my edger. Mike

Thank you for your reply...Tacking down with contact cement then cut apart....Never thought of that, but might try that myself.

Thank you,

Vikefan