Is This Leather Any Good?

[particle]

Okay - I bought 10 hides from Herman Oak. They were all "C" grade. Very happy with the fronts, but the back of the first hide I started using leaves a LOT to be desired. Is this nasty looking area usable? Can anyone tell me what's wrong and why the back looks like this? Is this a bad section that didn't get tanned properly, or was it a little thin and didn't get skived consistently with the rest of the hide, etc? Sorry for the low quality pics - they were taken with my phone. I already cut these bad portions away and saved them for coasters... This particular hide probably lost about 10 square feet after I trimmed this stuff away. Suggestions on what this area could be used for (aside from coasters) would be much appreciated.

[MADMAX22]

I have noticed with the HO that I have bought that most of the time the flesh side is that nice even slightly rough like what is in most of your pic. On occasion there are areas like what you describe. As long as the front of this area is ok I have used it pretty much like normal. It doesnt seem to affect the leather usage all that much. I would pretty much just use it on something that will be lined or where the flesh side is not visible.

Also 99% of the time this is in the belly area from what I have scene so it really hasn't affected what I would use it for, just use it for whatever you normally use the belly portion for. I think it just has to do with when they skiv the sides down that portion is allready thinner then what they skived to so it doesnt get the same treatment as the rest of the hide. Pretty sure anyways.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Hey particle. I definitely wouldn't use that part for making holsters. Like MADMAX22 mentioned, most of the time the rough area is on the belly portion of the hide which should not be used for making holsters any how. The good news is that this leather, as well as any portion of the side that is considered the belly, is still very useful for developing new patterns. Try this out -

Cut some blanks out from the waste area that are plenty bigger than your subject pistol. Wet them and shape them around your pistol, fully boning the whole surface as if you were making a holster. Be sure to get good, sharp definition around the profile of your pistol (make sure to include dowel for a sight track). Let the leather dry, then use a pen to draw a border about 1/8th of an inch from the outline of the pistol. Now draw the profile of your intended holster design on the pistol shaped piece of leather. Wet the leather again and use a rolling pin or a rubber press to flatten the leather back out (note that the shape you drew distorts somewhat once it is flattened out). Cut out the profile you drew and trace it onto some card stock, and you will have the pattern of your holster. Then cut along the lines where you traced along the pistol's profile and you will have a perfect guide to mark stitch lines on your new pattern.

This is very helpful learning tool to teach you how to eyeball patterns and stitch lines, because you will see how far the stitches should be from different parts of a pistol, depending on the widths and angles of a given area, and how the shape of a pistol can affect how a holster pattern is designed on a flat surface.

It is also a really handy method of mocking up a difficult custom order, so you get it right the first time around without any undue stress or wasted leather.

Edited May 14, 2010 by BOOMSTICKHolsters

[particle]

It is also a really handy method of mocking up a difficult custom order, so you get it right the first time around without any undue stress or wasted leather.

Hmm, I might have to give this a try - I've been thinking of a good way to work up a pattern for a flat-backed holster, and this might be just the trick! Thanks!

Yeah, most of that area was on the belly, but several square feet were up high on the shoulder area as well. You can see some of it in the 2nd photo I posted. I cut all that crud away and placed it aside for later use (mocked up a double-mag pouch with it a few days ago).

[MADMAX22]

Well still seems like a good hide for a C grade IMHO. Ofcourse I cant see the front. The portion toward the top should be alright as long as the thickness doesnt run out to much. Ofcourse maybe this is why its a C grade. Still some of the best stuff for holsters. Really like the firmness in the HO for holsters and belts.

[Rhome]

Hi Adam,

Been looking at your web site and your work. You're coming along very nice and you have the potential of becoming a world class holster maker. I am only going to say this once. Don't degrade you work by buying "C" grade leather from H.O. Do yourself and your customers a favor and purchase only the best you can afford, "A" grade from H.O. or Wickett and Craig's "Standard" grade. You will be amazed at how your holsters turn out. Other than that you are doing GREAT !! Keep up the good work !!

Best Regards,

Rhome

DGL

[particle]

Hi Adam,

Been looking at your web site and your work. You're coming along very nice and you have the potential of becoming a world class holster maker. I am only going to say this once. Don't degrade you work by buying "C" grade leather from H.O. Do yourself and your customers a favor and purchase only the best you can afford, "A" grade from H.O. or Wickett and Craig's "Standard" grade. You will be amazed at how your holsters turn out. Other than that you are doing GREAT !! Keep up the good work !!

Best Regards,

Rhome

DGL

Thank you Rhome for the compliment - I really appreciate it! You know, for the price, you're probably right - I should have just gotten "A" grade. I was swayed by the salesman on the phone that said all of the holster makers they sell to get "C" grade. With as much as I cut away from this first hide from the roll of 10, it probably wouldn't have cost any more money (in waste) to get the "A" grade. One of the H.O. people I spoke to said the hide I had previously gotten from one of the major retailers was "D" grade - so I figured (based on the H.O. price list) C would be WAY better than D.

Are the backs of "A" grade better than "C" grade? Or do they only score the hides on the skin-side?

[BigRiverLeather]

Adam, do you think you could post pics of the front side of your hide(s)? I'd like to compare it to the last couple I've received from a well known HO supplier. I've not been thrilled with what I received, but maybe I'm expecting too much. I'm very clear about having them pick out the best hide they can get, but I'm not completely confident in that. The person on the phone really doesn't seem to have much, if any knowledge. Any time I ask a question they have to go ask someone else.

The website of my supplier claims that it is B grade HO. My invoice says "Craftsman". I'm assuming these are different and from my days of buying hides from Tandy, I recall that Craftsman hides from them were not the best.

I'd like to compare the front of you C grade to what I have been receiving if that is not to inconvenient.

Thanks,