Australian Saddle - Replacing Girth Strap

[alb]

Hi all,

I have an Australian stock saddle in my shop. It's the first one that I've seen. I've made a new girth strap and am getting ready to stitch it to the webbing. I need to make a decision on which thread to use and the style of stitching currently on the saddle is something I'm not familiar with. The stitches are approx 1/2 in in length. I plan to look at the other side and match the stitching there but if anyone has some info on this type of saddle and the correct way to stitch it I'd appreciate the input. I just found a book covering repairs on this style of saddle but I won't have it in time for this repair.

Thanks,

Ann

[alb]

Okay - I just noticed the title of my post. I promise I'm not a complete idiot!!!! I'm not replacing a cinch, I'm replacing the girth strap (properly called the girth point, I think...) and I can't figure out how to rename the post.

Ann

who's sitting at home wishing she could be in her shop but is trying to recover from pneumonia...

[Denise]

There, I changed the title for you Ann. Sorry I can't help answer the rest of your question, but give it a few hours till the Aussies on here wake up again and I bet they will chime in.

[barra]

Hi Ann.

I attach my girth points/straps with about a 6 cord of number 2 common hemp thread and roll my own and then use a glovers needle. Common hemp is not easy to source these days. I don't stitch with an awl but instead punch small holes about 1/2" apart for about 3 inches. The punch I use is a number zero so rather tiny but you can use an awl and make the holes as you go. I then stitch the strap to the webbing using a back stitch (one needle and not one on each end of the thread like saddle stitching). This is where you start at the second hole, go back to the first, then again use the 2nd hole and then the first. Go onto the 3rd hole, back to the second, then 4th, then 3rd etc. Get to the end of one side and you have one large length of thread that crosses over. Go to the 2nd hole from the end, then the last and continue to the end finishing with a double stitch in the last 2 holes. You can also use a cross over pattern of stitching and crossing over from side to side. This will give you a pattern on the back of the webbing sort of like cross lacing boots. If sourcing a good stout thread is a problem (and it need to be a good stout thread)I have used thin nylon para cord of about 23 kilogram breaking strain. This is about 1/2 the thickness of a good stout boot lace.

There is a fleeting glimps of the process starting at 6 min, 55 secs

If you get stuck, sing out.

Barra

[alb]

Hi Barra,

Thanks so much for your reply.

I noticed that you hadn't been on the list for a few days and was hoping everything was okay.

I was able to source a braided thread which looked to me and to my thread source to be virtually identical to what was originally on the saddle. It's a Barbours Corus Braid , wax, 1mm. It's average strength is 24kg. I could have purchased a 2mm (with an average strength of 106), but I figured it was overkill. Considering it was black and would have shown up quite a bit more on this brown saddle where I needed to restitch the front stitches I had pulled, I went with the smaller braid. I would have had to wait too long to get it in brown. Of course strength over looks any day but since I was able to match the original, I'm confident in it.

I'm trying to stitch from underneath. I've pulled the strap through but it's still a bit tight. The original stitch was in a pattern of three lines. I'm going down one side, up the next and down the center. It's how the other one was done.

Again - I appreciate the note and the video. I think I'm on the right track. Is there anything special about tying it off that I should keep in mind?

Ann

And Denise - thanks very much changing the title. I hope you're having a blast in Sheridan!

Ann

[barra]

Hi Barra,

Thanks so much for your reply.

I noticed that you hadn't been on the list for a few days and was hoping everything was okay.

I was able to source a braided thread which looked to me and to my thread source to be virtually identical to what was originally on the saddle. It's a Barbours Corus Braid , wax, 1mm. It's average strength is 24kg. I could have purchased a 2mm (with an average strength of 106), but I figured it was overkill. Considering it was black and would have shown up quite a bit more on this brown saddle where I needed to restitch the front stitches I had pulled, I went with the smaller braid. I would have had to wait too long to get it in brown. Of course strength over looks any day but since I was able to match the original, I'm confident in it.

I'm trying to stitch from underneath. I've pulled the strap through but it's still a bit tight. The original stitch was in a pattern of three lines. I'm going down one side, up the next and down the center. It's how the other one was done.

Again - I appreciate the note and the video. I think I'm on the right track. Is there anything special about tying it off that I should keep in mind?

Ann

And Denise - thanks very much changing the title. I hope you're having a blast in Sheridan!

Ann

If the front of the panel is still stitched in place then restitching the girth strap is going to be tight. If you can, cut the stitches holding the panel at the pommel end and drop the front of the panel. This will give you room to restitch the girth strap. I think the cord you have will be fine. As for finishing off, leave a little slack in the thread when you are forming your last stitch, wrap the thread around the needle a couple of times and pull the last stitch up tight. This will form a knot. Alternatively you can just finish off with a thumb knot. Nylon can slip so I would finish by either running a cigarette lighter over the knot to melt the nylon very slightly or put a drop of superglue or loctite on the knot.

Barra

[alb]

I did drop the front stitches. It was pretty tight but I got it finished just now. I still can't figure out how the panel comes off.

It looks good and feels very strong. Thanks for your e-mails. Now I just need to punch the holes.

I was a bit worried I might not get the strap in exactly the same position at the connection point so I waited to punch the holes. It would have been easier to do them before but considering this was the first time I did this, I wasn't sure it was going to match up.

Ann

[barra]

I did drop the front stitches. It was pretty tight but I got it finished just now. I still can't figure out how the panel comes off.

It looks good and feels very strong. Thanks for your e-mails. Now I just need to punch the holes.

I was a bit worried I might not get the strap in exactly the same position at the connection point so I waited to punch the holes. It would have been easier to do them before but considering this was the first time I did this, I wasn't sure it was going to match up.

Ann

Ok so you cut the front stitches so you have seen how the panel attaches at the front. (stitched thru the panel, flap and front piece which is the little ridge of leather at the gullet. The back of the panel is laced in using a bent awl and the stitches go thru the base panel which is the leather that touches the tree and then the stitches go thru the seat leather.

Barra

[alb]

Thank You!!

Ann

[amuckart]

Hi barra,

I attach my girth points/straps with about a 6 cord of number 2 common hemp thread and roll my own and then use a glovers needle. Common hemp is not easy to source these days.

Can you elaborate on what you mean by "common hemp thread"? If you're rolling your own I presume it is something like the un-plied dry spun stuff I use for shoes, but I've never heard that term before.

Cheers.

[barra]

http://www.maclace.com.au/product.php?id=1010&list_page=1

Hemp thread is like the thread in the link although I'm sure that is linen

Barra

[amuckart]

Hi Barra,

http://www.maclace.c...010&list_page=1

Hemp thread is like the thread in the link although I'm sure that is linen

That's the stuff I use for shoes too. I got several 48-ball boxes of 1940s era "Acadia" brand #10 hemp from a guy on ebay a couple of years ago. It takes wax really well but it's a little weak for fine closing. I use 3 strands of it for round closing and I can break it pretty easily if I'm not careful. Not so much with the 7-9 strands I use for inseaming.

D.W over on the Crispin Colloquy uses unwaxed Teklon for inseaming his boots. He un-plies it and tapers the ends with a knife, waxes it and puts a bristle on just like you'd do with linen or hemp. I'm going to get some and give it a go. It's got a lot of advantages over hemp for anything but reproduction or restoration work. It's getting near impossible to get real long-staple linen any more. It's all processed on machinery geared for short-staple fibres like cotton.

There's no functional difference between linen and hemp. Once they're processed it's almost impossible to tell the difference between them, even with serious microscopes.