Tooling 4-5 oz. leather?

[Doug C]

Blake,

What kind or brand of sealer do you use? Your tooling looks great. I'm impressed.

Thanks,

Doug

[Blake]

Hi Doug

Thank you for the compliment.

I like Fiebings Leather Sheen which is a low gloss acrylic for the boots and then the maker will add something additional for his process and that is usually a wax base.

On books and other items I really like the Tan Kote but will also use NeatLac rubbed in deep with a woolskin if it is going to be used hard in the elements. Such as cell phone cases, log books etc.. I usually stay away from high gloss because in my humble opinion it takes away from the leather grain and gives an artificial look and as it wears off it leaves the leather uneven in color. The leather sheen will still allow conditioners and still looks natural when polished with shoe wax.

I use Tan Kote on my saddles.

Blake

[hidepounder]

Rookie,

Lots of good comments here....I want to add a few more. I used to tape everything when using lighter weight leather, but occasionally my tape would come loose a little and I would still get some stretching. I now put everything on 1/4" acrylic panels, even heavier weights like 9-10 oz. I cut several different sizes and shapes of acrylic to accomodate the kind of projects I typically do. I rubber cement my leather to the acrylic after casing my leather and it has worked vey well for me. I always line everything I tool so the residual cement on the back of my leather is not an issue for me. If you don't want residul glue, you can apply Barge to the acrylic only and press the piece to be tooled on while it is tacky.

The use of anything on the back of th leather to help "soften" the tooling does not work for me! I want as solid a backing as is possible so that I can get good clean, crisp tool impressions. Whenever I have a small scale, intricate tooling pattern, I reduce the thickness of the leather I tool on, for just that reason. I then will glue on a lining that will bring the thickness of the piece back to the appropriate size. I agree with David, depth is an illusion created by your design and is enhaced by the application of your tools.

I also agree with Blake, that using flatter bevelers, etc., is an option to consider when tooling lightweight leather, however, I want to add that the tools one selects to use, is dictated by the pattern. It's an issue of scale! If you'll notice, the pattern tooled by steveh on the boot tops is ornate, therefore he doesn't need to use "flat "tools in order to achieve the illusion of depth. On a broad, large pattern, the use of "flat" tools would probably enhance the illusion of depth. On the other hand, if you put very small, ornate pattern on 10-12 oz leather and cut as deep as the leather allows, the end result will be disasterous...again it's a matter of scale, dictated by the pattern.

Hope this makes some sense...if not...just ignore me.

........The 3 tone effect is pretty simple, I dye the background put resist (NeatLac) on the flowers or other elements that I want to leave natural and then apply a liberal coat of brown heel and sole dressing (which is water base) and wipe off the excess. let it dry 24 hrs and apply a sealer so it won't bleed or fade if it gets wet.........

Steve,

Is there a specific brand of Heel & Sole dressing you like to use best?

Bob

Edited December 1, 2008 by hidepounder

[Blake]

Hello Bob

I use the Fiebings as it seems to always be consistant from batch to batch. Bob Dellis and I both tried other brands several years back before his death and didn't see much difference in color other than Kelly was a little deeper brown. We also found that brand actually soured after it had been on the shelf for awhile.

You will also get a different color with different tanneries leathers so consistancy there is important too.

Blake

[steveh]

Rookie,

Lots of good comments here....I want to add a few more. I used to tape everything when using lighter weight leather, but occasionally my tape would come loose a little and I would still get some stretching. I now put everything on 1/4" acrylic panels, even heavier weights like 9-10 oz. I cut several different sizes and shapes of acrylic to accomodate the kind of projects I typically do. I rubber cement my leather to the acrylic after casing my leather and it has worked vey well for me. I always line everything I tool so the residual cement on the back of my leather is not an issue for me. If you don't want residul glue, you can apply Barge to the acrylic only and press the piece to be tooled on while it is tacky.

The use of anything on the back of th leather to help "soften" the tooling does not work for me! I want as solid a backing as is possible so that I can get good clean, crisp tool impressions. Whenever I have a small scale, intricate tooling pattern, I reduce the thickness of the leather I tool on, for just that reason. I then will glue on a lining that will bring the thickness of the piece back to the appropriate size. I agree with David, depth is an illusion created by your design and is enhaced by the application of your tools.

I also agree with Blake, that using flatter bevelers, etc., is an option to consider when tooling lightweight leather, however, I want to add that the tools one selects to use, is dictated by the pattern. It's an issue of scale! If you'll notice, the pattern tooled by steveh on the boot tops is ornate, therefore he doesn't need to use "flat "tools in order to achieve the illusion of depth. On a broad, large pattern, the use of "flat" tools would probably enhance the illusion of depth. On the other hand, if you put very small, ornate pattern on 10-12 oz leather and cut as deep as the leather allows, the end result will be disasterous...again it's a matter of scale, dictated by the pattern.

Hope this makes some sense...if not...just ignore me.

Steve,

Is there a specific brand of Heel & Sole dressing you like to use best?

Bob

Bob, I wish it where true but I did not tool the boot tops, that is Blakes work. Just want to clarify that.

Steve

[hidepounder]

Blake & cowpounder......

I sincerely apologize for not getting your names correctly in my earlier post! I assure you that I did not mean to quote you or refer to your work using someones elses name. Please accept my apology and just chock this up to my age.......they say that memory is one of the first things to go! Sorry guys!

Bob