Weight Belt Pattern?

[gesmith40]

Does anyone know where I can find a pattern to make a weightlifting belt? Have looked all places I can think of and no luck. Thanks.

[MADMAX22]

I dont know of a pattern per say but if you are gonna be making a few of them you could always just buy a cheaper one and use that as the base for your pattern and go from there. Check the used sporting goods places and such, its like weights people get them intending to use them and many of them dont see the intended amount of use and get sold pretty cheap.

[JLSleather]

Don't have the software to send you the pattern any more. New computer won't run the old AutoCad, and the new AutoCad is WAY too much money!

But, we always made those belts 4" wide. Then taper the ends down to 3" (straight cut running 3"). Leave enough to fold over 4" past the buckle, which is a 3" roller buckle. Punch size 9 oval holes for the buckle, evenly spaced at 1" and 2". I like 11 holes ... spaced at 1" apart, middle hole is the waist size. Start the tapers 6" back from the center set of holes, and 6" back from the fold. This will give you a "balanced" looking belt, and yet leaves the belt 4" wide across the back and around the sides.

Oh, yeah ... the size 9 oval punch can be punched (same 1" and 2" spacing across the belt) 3/4" each way from the fold, then cut straight between them to form the slots for the buckle. ROUND punch at 1-3/4" and 3" from the fold for CHICAGO SCREWS for the buckle (get FOUR nickel screws, to match the buckle). Length depends on the leather you're using.

EXAMPLE: Our "small" is for a 34" waist. The buckle is 1" wide (inside), so you need 33" of belt to the middle hole.

Adding the 5 "outside" holes gives you 38",

leaving 3" past the holes looks good and gives you 41". I cut the billet end with a 1-1/2" radius, makes the end round.

The 4" fold-over makes 45". SO THEN, the general rule is cut the outside layer 11" LONGER than the waist size. THEORETICALLY, the inside would then be 8" shorter, but I usually cut about 6" shorter and trim.

NOTE ON LEATHER: If you're making 2-layer belts, "shoulder" leather will be fine (one layer pulls against the other). If you're making single layer belts, you'll want to use backs so minimize stretch.

For "single layer" belts, 13 oz skirting is popular. For "lined" belts, use 2 layers of 8/9 oz. The inside layer will be 8" shorter than the outer, because it butts up to the 4" fold over, then stitch. I like to glue the layers, trim, then stitch. And, I "curve" the layers together, so it's got a curve when put together. Looks good, and fits good. Most of the "boys" at the gym like this many holes because they'll cinch it down when pushing, but they can back it way off and let it hang when between lifts or on the way home.

Personal preference, maybe, but I always do all dyeing/oiling/whatever ... THEN punch the holes. Add a 1" wide leather "keeper" made of about 6 oz (if you're using 8/9, a piece of the thinner end is probably close enough for this).

I'll try to put together some pics of this if you're interested. Let me know if this makes no sense at all, wouldn't be the first time

Sorry, photos of these went in the old computer

Edited May 21, 2010 by JLSleather

[gesmith40]

Great info JLSleather! Thanks. Sorry to hear about your computer. Been there - done that as well! No fun!!

Would love to see some pics if you have a chance. Thanks again.

[JLSleather]

I didn't forget about this, just had to order some stuff . Coming soon ...

[JLSleather]

This is poster board, 4" wide. Two strips, about 2' long. Mark as shown, should be pretty clear (let me know if I left out any details), 3" roller buckle shown spaced 1 ½" so you can decide if you like the spacing. Note that I have drawn a center line and measured everything out from there.

The # 9 OVAL punch (stars) can be punched inside the 3/4" marks each way from the fold and still have room for the buckle. Personal preference.

#4 ROUND punch (circles) at 1-3/4" and 3" from the fold for CHICAGO SCREWS for the buckle. NOTE: I punch only the one side of the fold line, then punch through the same holes after the fold is made and the keeper is in place (eliminates poor fit due to variation in leather thickness, which can be considerable with skirting leather).

Cut out your pattern, leaving the full 4" width for at least 4" on each end (if your pattern pieces are 2" long, you're covered). When cutting out the belt, simply lay both ends on a 4" wide strap and measure from inside the buckle to the center hole like any other belt yer makin'.

Photo is cut down, but still considerable, so I'm putting it in the image gallery. If I get some more time later, I'll cut one of these out for here.

Edited June 19, 2010 by JLSleather