Union Lock Replacement

[eengledow]

So, what would be the "Offical" replacement for a tack production Union Lock Stitch???

Eddie

[Wizcrafts]

So, what would be the "Offical" replacement for a tack production Union Lock Stitch???

Eddie

The only viable replacement for a Union Lockstitch Machine would be a Campbell-Randall needle and awl stitcher, from Campbell-Bosworth, in Yoakam, Texas. They are members of this forum and can provide you with all the details.

I have a Union Lockstitch machine, which I am rebuilding and I am curious why you want to replace yours? If yours is no longer in use, do you have any extra parts, needles, awls, bobbins, or accessories you are willing to let go of?

[Art]

Hi Eddie,

Well technically, another Union Lock. They can also be rebuilt. Once set up, they run pretty reliably in a cantankerous bastard sort of way. It is a one job machine. The Campbell is a more precision machine and is more suited to a small shop than a production line (they run well in production too). I use 6cord/5cord or 5cord/4cord linen in mine and have used Eddington poly without problem. Of course Connie and Dan are your lifeline for parts and advice.

The other option is a threaded needle machine ala 441. If you are used to a needle and awl machine, the bottom stitch may not be to your liking, but the top is excellent. It is a lot easier to do thread changes and needle changes on these machines.

Art

So, what would be the "Offical" replacement for a tack production Union Lock Stitch???

Eddie

[eengledow]

The only viable replacement for a Union Lockstitch Machine would be a Campbell-Randall needle and awl stitcher, from Campbell-Bosworth, in Yoakam, Texas. They are members of this forum and can provide you with all the details.

I have a Union Lockstitch machine, which I am rebuilding and I am curious why you want to replace yours? If yours is no longer in use, do you have any extra parts, needles, awls, bobbins, or accessories you are willing to let go of?

!st I should say I am fairly new to this industry...When running, they run pretty good, but we have to work on them every day. I have 3 I use in production and at least 1 is always "down"....

I have a couple more whic are partds machines.

In comparison.. I have 2 walking foot machines that just run day after day..I rasrley have to work on them.

Eddie

[Wizcrafts]

!st I should say I am fairly new to this industry...When running, they run pretty good, but we have to work on them every day. I have 3 I use in production and at least 1 is always "down"....

I have a couple more which are parts machines.

In comparison.. I have 2 walking foot machines that just run day after day..I rarely have to work on them.

Eddie

The answers to the following questions will help us provide you the the best recommendations.

1: What are you sewing on the ULS machines?

2: Are you using any special pressor feet (stitch-in-the-ditch, stepping, cording), or just the stock feet?

3: Are you using a flat or a raised throat plate?

4: What type (linen+wax, nylon, polyester) and size of thread (numbers or cords) are you using?

5: What range of thicknesses are you sewing on the ULS machines?

6: Are you sewing through plywood, sole leather, or rawhide?

7: How much space does your work require to the right of the needle and awl (to the inside of the machine)?

8: Are you using a swing away roller edge guide on the throat plates?

9: Are you sewing with the clutch feathered, or geared down, or at full speed (800 spi)?

If it turns out you are sewing with a standard pressor foot and throat plate, into harness, bridle or skirting leather, at or under 3/4", you might be able to switch to a major cylinder arm walking foot machine. They are available from dealers who are members of this forum and come in a variety of arm lengths, with various pressor feet and throat plates used for anything from belts, to bridles, to holsters. Some may even have stitch-in-the-ditch pressor feet available. They also have various speed and motor packages to suit your work.

These machines go by brand names such as Adler, Cobra, Cowboy, Techsew and Toro (by Artisan), among others. All are new and fully supported and have plenty of accessories available for special jobs.

Once I see your answers I will try to offer more suggestions. If it turns out you really do need a needle and awl stitcher, the only good option remains Campbell-Randall-Bosworth. They are used by Freedman Harness, day in and day out, to produce show harness for the most demanding clientele. They are huge, slow, hold tons of thread (linen+lax wax or bonded polyester), and sew the most beautiful stitch you will ever see.

Edited May 27, 2010 by Wizcrafts

[eengledow]

The answers to the following questions will help us provide you the the best recommendations.

1: What are you sewing on the ULS machines?

• Skirting
• Harness
• Latigo

2: Are you using any special pressor feet (stitch-in-the-ditch, stepping, cording), or just the stock feet?

• Standard but slightly modified for our use

3: Are you using a flat or a raised throat plate?

• Not sure, I will find out

4: What type (linen+wax, nylon, polyester) and size of thread (numbers or cords) are you using?

• I will let you know

5: What range of thicknesses are you sewing on the ULS machines?

• 3/16 to 3/4

6: Are you sewing through plywood, sole leather, or rawhide?

• No

7: How much space does your work require to the right of the needle and awl (to the inside of the machine)?

• We have a couple of items that require most orf what is available
• Saddle Bags
• Rifle Scabbards

8: Are you using a swing away roller edge guide on the throat plates?

• Yes

9: Are you sewing with the clutch feathered, or geared down, or at full speed (800 spi)?

• Not sure I understand the question
• We control speed of the machine via the foot pedal

If it turns out you are sewing with a standard pressor foot and throat plate, into harness, bridle or skirting leather, at or under 3/4", you might be able to switch to a major cylinder arm walking foot machine. They are available from dealers who are members of this forum and come in a variety of arm lengths, with various pressor feet and throat plates used for anything from belts, to bridles, to holsters. Some may even have stitch-in-the-ditch pressor feet available. They also have various speed and motor packages to suit your work.

These machines go by brand names such as Adler, Cobra, Cowboy, Techsew and Toro (by Artisan), among others. All are new and fully supported and have plenty of accessories available for special jobs.

Once I see your answers I will try to offer more suggestions. If it turns out you really do need a needle and awl stitcher, the only good option remains Campbell-Randall-Bosworth. They are used by Freedman Harness, day in and day out, to produce show harness for the most demanding clientele. They are huge, slow, hold tons of thread (linen+lax wax or bonded polyester), and sew the most beautiful stitch you will ever see.

We do also own a Cobra Class 4, we have only had it for 4 5 months, it can handle most everything we do, however it has a problem handling the transition from one thickness of leather to two thicknesses of leather, at the point where the leather is skived for that transition, the Cobra stitch length shortens...gets tiny...through that transition.

Eddie

[Wizcrafts]

We do also own a Cobra Class 4, we have only had it for 4 5 months, it can handle most everything we do, however it has a problem handling the transition from one thickness of leather to two thicknesses of leather, at the point where the leather is skived for that transition, the Cobra stitch length shortens...gets tiny...through that transition.

Eddie

Eddie;

From your answers and your last statement, it is my opinion that you require a "square feed" stitcher. I don't know all of the machines that have this system, but I do know that the Union Lockstitch, Campbell-Randall and the Luberto Classic all have square feed and a jump foot. If you get a chance you might try getting in touch with Mr. Luberto (1-800-419-9898) about his Classic stitchers, which resemble the old Number 9 machines. The feed is done entirely by the needle, which is pulled straight back, after penetrating all layers, with the pressor foot up. The pressor foot comes down, then the needle moves up and out. Because the needle movement is not pivoting, but is square, or straight back, all layers move at exactly the same speed. This includes gradual transitions, as well as instant layer increases.

I believe that that long out-of-production Ferdinand Bull machines also used a square feed and jump foot. I don't know of any other machines currently in production that work that way, aside from the ones mentioned earlier. I think of these machines as thickness/layer agnostic.

BTW: Campbell-Bosworth (1-800-223-6018) is the current owner of the Union Lockstitch machine name, and is the supplier of all parts and accessories for them.

Edited May 27, 2010 by Wizcrafts

[Art]

Hi Eddie,

You might want to try adjusting for higher presser foot lift to start. A call to Steve would be next on the list.

Art

We do also own a Cobra Class 4, we have only had it for 4 5 months, it can handle most everything we do, however it has a problem handling the transition from one thickness of leather to two thicknesses of leather, at the point where the leather is skived for that transition, the Cobra stitch length shortens...gets tiny...through that transition.

Eddie

[tonyc1]

Eddie;

From your answers and your last statement, it is my opinion that you require a "square feed" stitcher. I don't know all of the machines that have this system, but I do know that the Union Lockstitch, Campbell-Randall and the Luberto Classic all have square feed and a jump foot. If you get a chance you might try getting in touch with Mr. Luberto (1-800-419-9898) about his Classic stitchers, which resemble the old Number 9 machines. The feed is done entirely by the needle, which is pulled straight back, after penetrating all layers, with the pressor foot up. The pressor foot comes down, then the needle moves up and out. Because the needle movement is not pivoting, but is square, or straight back, all layers move at exactly the same speed. This includes gradual transitions, as well as instant layer increases.

I believe that that long out-of-production Ferdinand Bull machines also used a square feed and jump foot. I don't know of any other machines currently in production that work that way, aside from the ones mentioned earlier. I think of these machines as thickness/layer agnostic.

BTW: Campbell-Bosworth (1-800-223-6018) is the current owner of the Union Lockstitch machine name, and is the supplier of all parts and accessories for them.

The old Pearsons were "Square Feed " also.

Tony.