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  • Members
Posted

Can you guys and gals please help me with this machine. It was given to me and the former owner sewed leather with it, but I don't know what thickness leather I can stitch and he is now passed away and I am unsure about some things. I tested it going through ~1/4" of leather and it went through fine, but the stitches are very very close. Can you space them out? Any info you can give me would really really help!! Thanks a million in advance!!

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  • Moderator
Posted (edited)

That looks like a 96K40 tailors' machine. I had one from 1986 until 2005. It is useful for sewing leather vests after you replace the pressor foot, throat plate and feed dog with a roller foot conversion. It uses system 1728? needles, available up to size 21 and is able to sew with up to #92 thread. The pressor foot lift determines the sewing capacity, which is usually 1/4". You might be able to trick up the foot a tad more, to allow you to sew 5/16", but that is pushing the machine beyond its design limits.

Do not consider the 96K to be a leather sewing machine, just because somebody has sewn leather on one. This was actually my first industrial machine purchase. After going through a half dozen other machines and several thousand wasted dollars, I finally bought a true heavy duty compound feed walking foot machine, then a Union Lockstitch machine and have never looked back since.

Point of interest: My Father was a Tailor and had a 96K40 in his shop. I learned to sew on it. He used it to hem pants, coats and other garments, for customers needing alterations.

Edited by Wizcrafts

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Members
Posted

That looks like a 96K40 tailors' machine. I had one from 1986 until 2005. It is useful for sewing leather vests after you replace the pressor foot, throat plate and feed dog with a roller foot conversion. It uses system 1728? needles, available up to size 21 and is able to sew with up to #92 thread. The pressor foot lift determines the sewing capacity, which is usually 1/4". You might be able to trick up the foot a tad more, to allow you to sew 5/16", but that is pushing the machine beyond its design limits.

Do not consider the 96K to be a leather sewing machine, just because somebody has sewn leather on one. This was actually my first industrial machine purchase. After going through a half dozen other machines and several thousand wasted dollars, I finally bought a true heavy duty compound feed walking foot machine, then a Union Lockstitch machine and have never looked back since.

Point of interest: My Father was a Tailor and had a 96K40 in his shop. I learned to sew on it. He used it to hem pants, coats and other garments, for customers needing alterations.

uumm?? I have zero experience in sewing machines can you explain what you said in simpler terms? maybe some links to the conversion stuff and needles and thread and things? thanks a ton!! i am a complete novice when it comes to this!

  • Contributing Member
Posted (edited)

The oblong plate (above the gold oval) should tell you the model, and the stitch length is adjusted with the know just above it (up and down in the vertical slot). Does this help?

Edited by JLSleather

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

  • Moderator
Posted

uumm?? I have zero experience in sewing machines can you explain what you said in simpler terms? maybe some links to the conversion stuff and needles and thread and things? thanks a ton!! i am a complete novice when it comes to this!

Are you looking for a tailoring machine, or a leather sewing machine? The 96K40 is a tailoring machine. You can buy the roller foot conversion package from Atlas Levy, on eBay. It comprises of three parts and a screw. There is a video down the page showing you how to change the three items to convert a straight stitch machine into a roller foot machine. The video shows the foot in action, sewing up to 4 layers of garment leather, which is the limit it can handle.

If you are wanting to sew harder or thicker leather, this is not the machine for you.

Also, the 96K40 is manually oiled. Find all of the oil holes and keep the machine oiled frequently. Use sewing machine oil, not 3 in 1 oil! Wipe the dripping oil from the oil pan occasionally, to prevent it from overflowing onto your legs.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Moderator
Posted

BTW: The pressor foot on the machine in the photos is a left toe zipper foot. It is specifically made to sew close to the teeth of zippers.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Members
Posted

Are you looking for a tailoring machine, or a leather sewing machine? The 96K40 is a tailoring machine. You can buy the roller foot conversion package from Atlas Levy, on eBay. It comprises of three parts and a screw. There is a video down the page showing you how to change the three items to convert a straight stitch machine into a roller foot machine. The video shows the foot in action, sewing up to 4 layers of garment leather, which is the limit it can handle.

If you are wanting to sew harder or thicker leather, this is not the machine for you.

Also, the 96K40 is manually oiled. Find all of the oil holes and keep the machine oiled frequently. Use sewing machine oil, not 3 in 1 oil! Wipe the dripping oil from the oil pan occasionally, to prevent it from overflowing onto your legs.

I would like a sewing machine to sew holsters. I am taking this will not do that?

  • Moderator
Posted

I would like a sewing machine to sew holsters. I am taking this will not do that?

Not a chance in Hades. Been there, failed to do that!

You should redirect your search for a true leather stitcher, such as those sold by several dealers who are members of this forum. Figure out the maximum thickness you expect to sew, then contact each one for advice and prices. Expect to pay over $1200 for an entry level holster machine, set-up and capable of sewing almost 1/2", to around $2500 or more for a much better quality machine capable of sewing 3/4 inch. These machines can all use #346 bonded nylon or polyester thread and number 26 or 27 needles. Big machines do big work!

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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