Armor Molding

[mjays]

For a chest piece, what is the best way to mold the leather, on your body, finding a store manikin, or going through the process of casting your own body? It seems that casting would be the best as you would have a reusable customized resource... This armor would, more probable than not be for show, not SCA combat.

thank you.

Edited June 9, 2010 by mjays

[hivemind]

I'd get it cut to roughly the shape you want, soak it in hot water, and form it right on your body.

[Eldorado]

For a chest piece, what is the best way to mold the leather, on your body, finding a store manikin, or going through the process of casting your own body? It seems that casting would be the best as you would have a reusable customized resource... This armor would, more probable than not be for show, not SCA combat.

thank you.

Having created two sets of armor, one out of 10-12oz latigo and one out of saddle skirting I'd have to know more to answer the question.

Latigo has no shaping qualities, so you have to shape it by how you cut and assemble it. If you want a curve, you have to cut the line as a curve and rivet or sew it together so it comes together with a curve. You can also place battens in it to force it to shape.

However, the second set of armor I made (saddle skirting) required a couple of different techniques for molding. I was going for a "peascod" look on the cuirass, which meant I needed to stretch the leather into a point down around the belly button area. For that section, I used the pointed tip of a staircase bannister to work the shape after getting it really wet. It was also important to place strategic cuts with a swivel knife on the inside to get the cuirass to crease down the center and to pinch in around the kidneys.

If you are intending that the armor fit you precisely, then molding around you makes alot of sense. I use strips of soft cloth to tie things on, so they dry but the leather isnt scarred. However, you might want some separation between your body and the armor. For example, a pot belly-sort of approach to a breastplate. Even though you arent fighting in it, the space would be appropriate as a means to absorb some of the impact of a blow. In that case, I say shape it like a sculpture on a table or hanging from a cross piece and keep coming back to it as it dries to adjust it.

I'd stay away from a cast form, unless you are working with very thin leather. It is a huge amount of work to get a cast right. I use a cast-marble face form for masks and if I get much over 5oz, I can't get the leather to form to the cast in a meaningful way that is worth the trouble of the cast. All the definition disappears as the leather thickness increases. That said, simple cylinders (like wine bottles) can be nice general shaping forms for arm and leg pieces.

Hope this helps

Eldorado

[yan]

I did'nt want to be the first to right my opinion, I agree with Eldorado for the cast form.

If you form it on yourself your gone move a little bit during the process, so the armor will have a little bit of breathing room.

[Forkbeard]

I do this all the time. I'm doing it next week all week long.

Here is what I do.

Use 10 oz or thicker veg tan. Stay under 14ozthough, as that starts to get hard to work. You can do it and it works great, but it's alot of effort and expense if you're not going to really use it for protection(SCA).

I feel that thinner than 10 oz doesn't look like armor when your done. It looks very flexy and costumey.

Make your pattern with poster board. Do it over and over until you can move freely in it. Cut it out of the leather. Edge it the way you want now, it's easier to do it now. You can also dye it now, if you want. It takes less dye before you harden it to get the same tones.

After your dye is dry, saok it in water(hot if you want) for about a half hour or so, have a beer.

Get a round smooth thing(poolball, ballstake, very round hammer) about 2 1/2"- 3" and a lager ball peen hammer. You'll use these things to stretch out your bulgy parts like pecs and sixpack ab's or anything else that requires a bulge type spot in the plat later. I use my hand on one side and rub the round thing into the leather until my pec's or whatever are good and stretched out.

They start getting the curves around your body in. The side and top of shoulders. Curve them in way, way more than you want them, stretch it a little.

Now cook the whole thing in your oven at 190 degrees. leave it in for 30 minutes. Then take it out. Don't freak out. It will be all ######ed up and flat. Reshape it quickly and put it back in the oven, use some oven proof dishes to prop it up if you have to.

Take it our and reshape every 20-30 minute until it keep's it's shape(about an hour in). Then leave it in until it is ALL THE WAY DRY. For a breastplate, this should take about another 45 minute or so, your mileage may vary.

I got this method from a guy who used to run The House of the Wolf, an SCA armourer. It's worked for me for years and years. I have 5 year old armor I have sweat all the way through that still holds it shape.

You could start with some smaller pieces, like bracers and experiment a little.

FB

[hivemind]

Hey FB, good to see you here. Too bad you weren't at Rag last week.

I may experiment with this oven drying method some...