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Before you do your breastplate, start with smaller project, the bracer and greave would be a good start. They are usually easy to do and you will learn the techniques with smaller pieces(so less expensive). There is a lots of ressources in this forum about the cuir bouilli.

Like the title said I am searching for a pattern for a hat. Top hat or "quaker" style. If someone were to find one I would appreciate.

if you use no so hot water (around 40 C), the leather should not shrink. You may also try wood floor varnish, I use it on leather armor with acceptable results.

is the helm for show or are you going to use it in fight (either larp or sca)?

I do not use eyelet either, Usually work 15 oz. I usualy try tu use the more ''maleable'' part of the leather near the wrist, it is easier ''bend out'' . (By the ways Hivemind thank for the answer you give on many armor post, they realy help my first pieces to be confortable to wear)

really nice

tks, lots of info there

hopefully it won't be the last!

I've been working on a conceptual armor for a while, it is not yet perfect. It is armor grade (15 oz) the tunic is ''caribou'' (sorry I am not sure of the english word...)

My first official order, 14 froggs for kidds age 3 to 8.

I am not a expert but I made a couple of pieces of cuir bouilli. (made a lot of mistake at first, now it's starting to look like I want) If your your water is just a little colder your leather will still harden but will not shrink dramaticly. the hoter the water the harde the leather, but do not ''cook'' your leather. carving will not be as clear, do not use water base tint (eco flow from tandy) before you bouille leather. Like rcsaddles said testing is always to ways to go

nice mug, the ''wine glass'' is the first i've seen. Look's good

I am searching for Canadian suppliers (to much trouble at custom) for horn hardware (buckle, ring, etc) and brewers pitch. thanks

I did'nt want to be the first to right my opinion, I agree with Eldorado for the cast form. If you form it on yourself your gone move a little bit during the process, so the armor will have a little bit of breathing room.

I don't like drawing flower, but I got 2 young daughters so Any one got advice on this before I ruin it with my very poor tinting skill

Your crossbow is really good looking . Since you're going for the ''brigandine look'' you could use chrome tan softer leather for the base veste. I did that in my first armor and got 2 good year use (it still good, I just maid a better looking one). I don't use my armor for paint ball so I don't need to removed trace of paint on it. For the varnish I used 5 coat of the eco-flow super shene finish on both side of the leather. It's ok, look a little beat up after a many use (but that's the look I was going for), no trace of crack and it has been use at least once under heavy rain for over 3 hrs. I tested a couple of product :latex base, water base and oil base varnish but this one gave me a better result. If any one discover something better please post.

Maybe you sould try 1 or 2 small pieces of the leather you are gone use, harden them and left them for a couple of hours in a saline solution (water with 0.91%salt). This should be a lot harder on the leather then a match of paintball. I do simulation of medieval armor, I could spend 12 hrs in a row running and fighting at 30 C (about 80 F). I use cuir bouilli (with water not wax) and a couple of coat of varnish. So far I did'nt have any probleme with my armor. You said you want to use a leather greek style helm over your field mask, The probleme with those was the perception. It reduce the field of vision (especially if you put it over something else) and the noise. For close combat in a open field it's not a big issues but for range attack and ambush situation those could be a big probleme. Anyways it would still look very cool, please post a picture of your kit when it is done.

I am new to the craft and do not plan to do it professionally; so I am on a limited budget. I wanted to get a horse but only manage to get a pony (stitching pony). First thing I notice: every time I needed to move the pieces I was sewing, I had to use a screw driver to loosen the nut. I put a spring on the screw side and now can adjust with one hand

You're right about the shoulder, that's the first thing I tought about when I saw the picture. The rest is well balanced. Your mask is neat, is ''articulated'' (could it be raise between fight)?

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While searching for hirtoricaly accurate leather armor I found a lot of reference (and a couple of picture) of leather gambison (or jack). But since I was searching for a cuirasse in cuir bouilli (I did'nt found any picture of one that was found in a archeological dig, yet) I did'nt note those reference. But a padded leather vest would offer a good protection in a ''sporting event''.

I found 2 pieces of armor in cuir bouilli armor for horse: horse armor and another pieces: right upper arm

Reading others topics I saw a couple of of post about the "historic accuracy" of leather armor and I think this subject deserve to be a topic be itself. There are physical evidence of leather armor in Japan, and I found one in Egypte egyptian armor If you know of source on europeen leather armor please post

The "handle" of sword are beleived to be made of either wood or leather. As far as I know, there are no good example of middle-age (or older) with this part intact. I think the main reason why we can find shoes, bags, belt from that periode is the quantity of those. Nearly everyone would use shoes belt and bag but only a few would use armor.

the inside is a really nice touche