Newbie Needs Alternatives To Tan-Kote

[Waylayer069]

Greetings from Hot and Humid Florida!

I've taken up Mounted Archery and needed to have an appropriate quiver to minimize the rattle of the arrows - my horse doesn't like the noise. I had the opportunity to use someone's replica of a Turkish Quiver and decided it was right for me. I asked the guy if he could make me one and he suggested that I could make one myself and that he would provide me with his pattern and a list of supplies and tools I would need. I thought, what the heck, I am game!

I bought a side of 5/6 oz tooling leather, 3 different colors of dye (2 Feibings leather dye and an Eco-flo waterbased dye in purple) and the other tools I would need. I asked the Tandy Leather clerk about a product to protect my project when it was completed and they suggested Tan-Kote. I had enough leather to make 4 quivers and cut out all the pattern peices. The first quiver I almost wholly completed was a purple one for my daughetr who also does Mounted Archery.

I also bought a belt blank and hardware (part of this type of quiver) and dyed it purple, asembled it and then to complete it, put a coat of Tan-Kote on it. It turned the belt black and now I am afraid to put a protective finish on the quiver for fear of the same thing happening.

The rest of my quandry is, I already dyed 2 other quivers (they still need to be assembled) and at the recommendation of lots of helpful folks, reapplied dye during the first application so that I would achieved the desired intensity/darkness of the colors I was using. I called the local Tandy and told one of the owner's my delema and he said that 'yes', the Tan-Kote will darken what ever it is applied to and that I should only apply the dye to a shade or two lighter then I am looking for because the Tan-Kote WILL darken it the rest of the way. Now they tell me?!

Anyone have any suggestions as to how I can add a protective finish to these quiver's without turning them all black? One quiver is in Feibings Ox Blood which I darkened to a nice maroon, one is Feibings Russet which I did to a nice dark dappled chocolate and the Eco-Flo purple to a dark purple.

Thanks in advance for your advice and sugestions,

Hilary

[JLSleather]

MOST of my projects involve Tan-Kote, but I never use the water-based dyes, so I'm guessing that the combination is what darkened your project. Where I used Fiebing's spirit dyes this has never been an issue, though it does slightly darken natural leather. For outside projects where you don't want "shiny" (another guess) I'd recommend neatsfoot (which darkens natural leather slightly). One of those who use water dyes may tell you more about what neatsfoot does to them.

[kevinhopkins]

Hi... Water based dyes are just not happy in my opinion. Stick with alcohol, or oil, and be resolved that if you're using tan kote, it's going to be an experiment for you almost everytime you use it, until you actually know what it does with different products. Tankote is a wonderful product for those that have learned the tricks of the trade. But as a final finish... well, I'd probably choose something else. Tandy states that their store managers are professional leather crafters, and maybe there are some that are, but I know a fair number of them personally, and a number of them are my friends. They're excellent store managers, as well as very nice people, but they don't do leathercraft for a living. if I wanted to know how to do something with leather, I think I'd put a question on this site, and compare a few answers. For what it's worth, I sell about 10 to 15 thousand dollars worth of Fiebings dye products per month. I sell maybe one to two hundred dollars worth of eco flow. I'm sure it's a great product, but I probably just haven't learned how to use it properly yet. Hope you get your purple to be purple!

Kevin

[JLSleather]

For what it's worth, this little dealie was painted with 8 colors of Fiebing's spirit dies (no oil dye, no water-based) and finished with Tan-Kote. Lots of other projects get similiar treatment, but this is one of the most "colorful" so I thought one of the better examples for your question ...

Oh, yeah ... I should add that while I used 8 shades, the project was intended to include NINE shades, the 9th "color" being the natural leather left showing.

Edited June 18, 2010 by JLSleather

[JLSleather]

Or, since you specifically mention purple, this one is some purple ... with Tan-Kote (though I admit that the "purple" is my own mix of red and blue).

[hivemind]

If you don't want to hit it with Tan-Kote, get some spray shene and use that. I seal all my stuff, including armor and quivers, with Fiebing's Super Shene.

[katsass]

If you don't want to hit it with Tan-Kote, get some spray shene and use that. I seal all my stuff, including armor and quivers, with Fiebing's Super Shene.

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I have to agree with hivemind. For the least amount of darkening, Feibing's Super Shene will be the best IMO. You can even thin it with water if so desired. Always test a finish on a piece of scrap first. Actually any of the clear acrylic finishes will work, in a pinch I have even used "Mop and Glow" floor stuff (thinned 50%/50% with water) as a clear, only mildly darkening finish. Mike

[K-Man]

Waylayer: Where in FL are you? I'm just east of Tampa, actually between Tampa and Orlando. You're welcome to come by my shop and I can show you some things. I'd be interested in seeing your quiver pattern.

I would stay away from Feibings tan-kote and super shene. They really leave a poor and inadequate finish for items primarily used outdoors. My experience has also shown that mop and glow cracks and peels. I'd suggest the Angelus acrylic finish. That's what I use on the archery products (actually all of my products) I make and I've never had an issue with it causing a darkening of the dye.