BOOMSTICKHolsters Report post Posted July 9, 2010 Rg, I agree with you. a 9/10oz double shoulder or 9/10 double butt is not going to cave in. the first thing that will give out on a stitch belt is the stitching. The fact is, 9/10 single ply belts do sag and cave in. I cited an example earlier of a 14 oz. belt cut from quality leather that sagged after about 14 months. A single ply belt of the same weight will wear out sooner than a double ply belt of similar quality with the same total weight. A double ply not only has more top grain leather, which means it is stronger, but it also has additional tension between the layers that adds sheer strength, and helps resist rolling or sagging. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregintenn Report post Posted July 10, 2010 (edited) I just finished my first double layer belt made from 7/8 oz leather. There is no single leather I've seen, except for maybe rawhide, that is as stiff as this belt. I have to believe, that while there's more labor involved in the dual layer belt, the final product is woth it. While hand stitching the belt, I couldn't help but think that I'm waaaaaaaaaay too big around! Edited July 10, 2010 by gregintenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Billsotx Report post Posted November 30, 2010 The cut of leather is the primary factor. Belts should be cut from the back as previously noted. I've seen a lot of belt straps cut from shoulders, which I wouldn't waste time on. I cut my belts from the top third of a side, and I prefer to cut the billet end from the butt. I used 8/9oz. and lightly taper the billet on the liner and the fold-end of the outer. I have looked at a lot of the later Bruce Nelson's belts and I copy what I think he did. Nelson is probably the first custom holster maker to build contoured concealed carry belts. He said that he got the idea from the heyday Hollywood buscadero belts. Galco, Milt Sparks and other top notch gun leather is also contoured. Contoured is comfort. If belts are 2 inches wide or less, cut them straight, glue them up, case them and lay them flat on your workbench and with the flats of your hands put the curve in the belt that you want. You can eyeball it or you can make a form (jig if you will) to shape it around. If you're building the belt for a male, lay the billet to your right and gradually work in the contour. If you're building for a female, lay the billet to your left and then curve it. Let it dry thoroughly and then stitch it. I know a guy (who will remain un-named) that used to work for one of the above mentioned makers and they make their belts in this way. They build belts all day, and at the end of the day, they dip the belts in a tub of gum trag (but water will work in my experience) and then lay them on a table and shape them. Wider belts, western rigs - buscaderos, will have to be cut on a contour. You can only bend so much leather. Surf around the saddle makers on this forum. They shape breast straps in this manner. Anytime I'm around a saddle guy or gal, I listen, they know stuff ... yeah, some of them are old ... lol! I'm keeping an eye on horsewreck, sounds like he's been there done that, walked away from it, didn't crash and burn ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted December 1, 2010 I can't believe I never thought about casing them and then curving them that way! I've never really considered cutting them on a curve because it seems like there would be more wasted leather but more importantly I think every body shape would require a different curve, mine has an odd shape to it after wearing it for a while, it's not a smooth gradual curve. I have a few orders for belts so I may try this on them, it should really help cut down the breakin period. I make my belts double layered, glued and stitched. I don't think there's any comparison between this and a single layer for the reasons already stated and in my opinion the finished product looks much better and slides through the belt loops easier since both sides are smooth, It is at least double the work which makes them more expensive but there's plenty of cheap belts out there if someone wants a cheap one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Billsotx Report post Posted December 1, 2010 OHG billymac I thought I was having some kind of flash back. Did I answer my own question ... lol! Surfed over to you web. Nice looking stuff. I thought your pillon pad was a sissy bag, but google educated me. We don't need no stickin' fenders on our bikes ... LOL! Let us know what your clients think about your upcoming belts. You DO and we LEARN! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billymac814 Report post Posted December 1, 2010 I'm going to try it, I wish I'd have seen this for the belt I made last week as it was for someone I knew and not just a random customer. At what point do you stitch it up? It seems it would be easier to stitch it when its straight, but I don't think it would bend as much after it's stitched but on the other hand maybe they do since they mold to the body after they are stitched and sealed. This would be a good time to make myself a new belt but I'm getting behind as it is so that's out of the question. That pillion pad was way bigger than I wanted to make it, but the guy claimed his girlfriend needed it that big, hopefully she didnt hear him saying that. It was supposed to match the seat in my avatar picture, but they were made at different times and that seat was tough to match perfectly because I mixed some colors and didn't really keep track of how much of each and I didn't have the seat in person to go off of, I'm still not sure how close they are as I never got pictures of them together. I'll let you know how I make out with curving the belt, the next one I have is still a few weeks away on my list. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
