The Type Of Sewing Machine You Need To Sew Leather

[leatherkind]

I am glad i found leatherworker.net and I enjoy reading it very much.

It was difficult for me with no experience in sewing to make a sewing machine choice.

Thanks to all contributors here and especially to Wizcrafts' posts I was able to make an informed decision.

This summer I acquired a Cowboy 4500 from Bob Kovar and it was a lot of fun making different items on this machine.

Here is one project that proved to me that i got the right machine. It is a leather and jeans backpack. (please see the attachment)

Even though it is relatively light duty bag there are several tough spots in it.

There are folds of thick leather on top of heavy nylon fabric together with some thick jeans folds.

Many of those layers are with glue between them.

Some spots are at least 1/2 inch of very stiff material to get through and the machine showed no stress at all.

Just do not press the pedal too hard or it will go too fast to properly control the material.

I am very glad that i got this machine.

[Wizcrafts]

(snip)

Here is one project that proved to me that i got the right machine. It is a leather and jeans backpack

Even though it is relatively light duty bag there are several tough spots in it.

There are folds of thick leather on top of heavy nylon fabric together with some thick jeans folds.

Many of those layers are with glue between them.

Some spots are at least 1/2 inch of very stiff material to get through and the machine showed no stress at all.

(snip)

What size, or sizes of needle and thread are you using to sew these awesome backpacks?

[leatherkind]

What size, or sizes of needle and thread are you using to sew these awesome backpacks?

I used #22 ball point needle and T135 nylon thread and harness presser foot assembly.

This choice was made after #20 needle bent on a first try and #22 was the largest ball point I had on hand at that time.

I had larger needles but those were all for leather and i have heard somewhere that they will cut the fabric and the seam will not be strong.

T135 was used because i like thick threads but bigger thread would adversely affect gentle feel of this very soft leather.

I used Harness Foot because this is the only one i have.

Your question however prompted me to investigate effects of different needles on nylon fabric.

For the experiment I used 0.15 mm nylon fabric (0.0065"), #22 ball point, #23 spade point, and #25 triangular point needles.

It is not exactly apples to apples comparison but i think it is enough to prove my original assumptions wrong.

None of the needles seem to inflict any damage on the fabric which was a total surprise to me.

Only the largest needle caused threads to pull in cross shape which i do not think can be considered a mechanical damage.

I do not see any evidence of cutting.

It seems that i was wrong and I could have used leather point just as well and achieve different type of stitch.

The experiment is not ideal however because i did the puncturing by hand.

I will try it on the machine under normal conditions if I do not forget.

PS Thank you question and for your opinion about the backpack.

[MattDC]

I realize I'm not the first to say this, but after quite a while of reading the posts on leatherworker.net, this is my first post. I've been making small leather accessories (wallets, key fobs, magnetic money clips) for friends and family for a little over a year now but recently, I've become interested in scaling up my production abilities. Specifically, I'd like to be able to sew leather handbags, briefcases, etc and hand-stitching the two handbags I've made recently was nothing short of an exhausting activity. That being said, I quickly realized how much time I would save with a sewing machine. I've read the previous posts and recommendations, but still was hoping to get input from some of you.

I'm looking to spend less than $2,000 on the sewing machine, but I am willing to go a little bit over budget for something that will last. I don't intend to produce any holsters or saddlery; the only things I will be doing is stitching runs on belts and straps, and stitching handbags and wallets... maybe making some chaps if I decide that's something I want to do. My only concern is that I would like to stitch some high quality leathers and I don't want the machine to damage the leather in the process. The machine I have my eye on is the Techsew GA5-1R. Once I factored in shipping, it would be about $1600. On other websites, some folks have recommended the Tippman Boss, and, of course, I've heard nothing but good things about the Cobra machines, though I'll admit they're a little more than I want to spend. The only other stipulation I have, is that due to the smaller, more intricate projects I work on, I would place the ability to control the speed of the stitching as my highest concern (something it seems that the servo on the Techsew is well-suited for).

Any input y'all can pass along will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[Techsew Ron]

I realize I'm not the first to say this, but after quite a while of reading the posts on leatherworker.net, this is my first post. I've been making small leather accessories (wallets, key fobs, magnetic money clips) for friends and family for a little over a year now but recently, I've become interested in scaling up my production abilities. Specifically, I'd like to be able to sew leather handbags, briefcases, etc and hand-stitching the two handbags I've made recently was nothing short of an exhausting activity. That being said, I quickly realized how much time I would save with a sewing machine. I've read the previous posts and recommendations, but still was hoping to get input from some of you.

I'm looking to spend less than $2,000 on the sewing machine, but I am willing to go a little bit over budget for something that will last. I don't intend to produce any holsters or saddlery; the only things I will be doing is stitching runs on belts and straps, and stitching handbags and wallets... maybe making some chaps if I decide that's something I want to do. My only concern is that I would like to stitch some high quality leathers and I don't want the machine to damage the leather in the process. The machine I have my eye on is the Techsew GA5-1R. Once I factored in shipping, it would be about $1600. On other websites, some folks have recommended the Tippman Boss, and, of course, I've heard nothing but good things about the Cobra machines, though I'll admit they're a little more than I want to spend. The only other stipulation I have, is that due to the smaller, more intricate projects I work on, I would place the ability to control the speed of the stitching as my highest concern (something it seems that the servo on the Techsew is well-suited for).

Any input y'all can pass along will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi Matt, thanks for your interest in our machines.

While the Techsew GA5-1R is a great leather stitcher, I would not recommend it for sewing wallets, handbags or chaps. This machine has a pretty aggressive feeding mechanism that is more suitable for heavy leather work such as harnesses, tack, tool belts and more.

The most appropriate machine for you would be the Techsew 2700, which is an all purpose general leather work machine suitable for wallets, handbags, chaps, belts, vests, upholstery and more. Since it is a compound feed (triple feed) machine, it will not damage your leather at all. It comes equipped with the Techsew SmartServo motor ideal for speed control and we also have an optional flatbed table attachment for this machine.

Feel free to give me a call if you have any other questions!

Thanks,

Ron

[rough]

This article is now being Tweeted on Twitter. Thanks all!

BTW: I am @Wizcrafts on Twitter. My tweets are mostly about computer and website security, malware threats and spam analysis, but I do make the occasional Tweet about my leather and sewing work.

Today is my birthday, so I probably won't be posting anything new today. I'll get back to this article later, or tomorrow. I know I have a contract sewing job to do sometime tomorrow. Maybe I'll shoot a couple of pix of my walking foot machine earning me some money. It may help someone who wants to sew similar leather projects.

I have shot a few movies of my machines, with my digital camera, but haven't figured out how to convert them from Apple .MOV files into WM .AVI files. I may see if YouTube has a converter and upload them there, for the world to see (in Flash format).

[piddler]

How about this one? It fits into my budget. I sew primarily small leather accesories, wallets, belts, insides, etc and have always used a class 15 for these things due to space limitations, but would like to expand. Thanks in advance for all your help.

JUKI LU-563 Walking Foot Upholstery, Leather Sewing Machine - $895

[Wizcrafts]

How about this one? It fits into my budget. I sew primarily small leather accesories, wallets, belts, insides, etc and have always used a class 15 for these things due to space limitations, but would like to expand. Thanks in advance for all your help.

JUKI LU-563 Walking Foot Upholstery, Leather Sewing Machine - $895

A Juki LU-563 will work fine for your small parts, interiors and belts. You are advised to test it first. Juki stopped making that series almost a decade ago. Also, sew in forward, then hold down the reverse lever and see if it sews into the previous holes. If not, you'll need to consult with a mechanic who has worked on Jukis.

The bobbins in the LU-563 hold about twice as much thread as the standard bobbins in a class 15, or the LU-562. They were good production machines and were used in large and small factories to sew jeans, leather garments and coats. They usually have clutch motors with big pulleys, to get the highest speed possible. Time is money in production. But, continuous high speed operation wears out even the best sewing machines. Check the moving parts carefully for excessive wear.

If you buy this Juki, know that is is a manually oiled machine and requires a few drops of oil in every oil hole, prior to use. Use sewing machine Lily oil only.

The 563 can tension up to #207 thread, if the top tension beehive spring is the heavy duty one. Otherwise, it will top out at #138 thread, top and bottom. The maximum thickness sewn is 3/8 inch, although the feet lift 1/2 inch with the knee lever. It can handle #69 thread with a #16 or 18 needle for lighter work.

The LU-563 also works great with the heavy cotton and polycore thread used to sew hems on jeans.This is size 30 and 40 thread. It is available in a dedicated orange color for jeans, on small and large cones.

Needles used are the common walking foot type 135x16 (leather) and 17 (cloth), which are available in most sizes up to #25.

If you cannot learn to feather the clutch, you'll need to replace the motor with a servo motor. I use a SewPro 500GR on my flat bed machines. They are available from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.This would drive up the cost of the machine to almost $1100 and you can buy a brand new Consew or Chandler walking foot machine, already equipped with a SewPro motor, for almost as much.

Edited March 10, 2012 by Wizcrafts

[piddler]

A Juki LU-563 will work fine for your small parts, interiors and belts. You are advised to test it first. Juki stopped making that series almost a decade ago. Also, sew in forward, then hold down the reverse lever and see if it sews into the previous holes. If not, you'll need to consult with a mechanic who has worked on Jukis.

The bobbins in the LU-563 hold about twice as much thread as the standard bobbins in a class 15, or the LU-562. They were good production machines and were used in large and small factories to sew jeans, leather garments and coats. They usually have clutch motors with big pulleys, to get the highest speed possible. Time is money in production. But, continuous high speed operation wears out even the best sewing machines. Check the moving parts carefully for excessive wear.

If you buy this Juki, know that is is a manually oiled machine and requires a few drops of oil in every oil hole, prior to use. Use sewing machine Lily oil only.

The 563 can tension up to #207 thread, if the top tension beehive spring is the heavy duty one. Otherwise, it will top out at #138 thread, top and bottom. The maximum thickness sewn is 3/8 inch, although the feet lift 1/2 inch with the knee lever. It can handle #69 thread with a #16 or 18 needle for lighter work.

The LU-563 also works great with the heavy cotton and polycore thread used to sew hems on jeans.This is size 30 and 40 thread. It is available in a dedicated orange color for jeans, on small and large cones.

Needles used are the common walking foot type 135x16 (leather) and 17 (cloth), which are available in most sizes up to #25.

If you cannot learn to feather the clutch, you'll need to replace the motor with a servo motor. I use a SewPro 500GR on my flat bed machines. They are available from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.This would drive up the cost of the machine to almost $1100 and you can buy a brand new Consew or Chandler walking foot machine, already equipped with a SewPro motor, for almost as much.

Ok, makes sense, and really thankful for your input and vast knowledge. This will be my last question. Is this the Chandler you were rederring to??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200719127196?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#shId

[Wizcrafts]

Ok, makes sense, and really thankful for your input and vast knowledge. This will be my last question. Is this the Chandler you were rederring to??

http://www.ebay.com/...1423.l2649#shId

Same machine, but I don't recommend sewing machine dealers who aren't members of LWN, if one of our dealers sells the same machine. If you buy the same machine from our dealers you are going to get great customer service after the sale. Industrial sewing machines are not necessarily intuitive to adjust and operate. It helps to be able to pick up the phone and ask the seller questions about its operation, adjustments and available or custom made accessories.

You can find more information about the Chandler 406RB-1 here.