Dog Harness Questions

[SimonJester753]

I'm planning on making a walking harness for my dog. I've got several questions about materials and design.

I bought latigo side which I'll be using for the main construction.

I may want to pad it. I've seen harnesses padded with neoprene. I'm sure it's functional, but I don't like the look of it. I was thinking of elk skin or some light garment leather with some kind of padding under it. What would be a good padding material? Keep in mind it will get rained on and maybe even be submerged while swimming.

The other padding option could be to line it with sheepskin. The problem with that is my dog has allergies, but I'm not sure if wool is one of them.

Does anyone know of any patterns for dog harnesses? I have pictures of 2 I like.

Where I'd like to change the design from the pictures shown is I'd like to add a leash attachment on the chest. I'm not sure if this style of harness would work well with the leash attaching to the chest – I don't know if it may be easy for the dog to back out of the harness.

And that leads me to my final question. I've found that my dog can wiggle out of the nylon harness I now use, if it's gotten a bit loose. I want to get a short length of chain with a bolt snap on each end, to tie the harness to his collar. Do these come pre-made? If so, what are they called?

[roo4u]

latigo is a good leather to use. as for padding...wool would possibly irritate the dog when wet and have to be careful getting it dry and will pick up burrs etc . my mom pads her service dogs harness with a synthetic wool pad that wraps around and velcros on so it can be easily removed for cleaning. i really wouldnt recommend a leather harness for swimming a dog.

ive never seen a harness with a chest leash attachment ..what would be the purpose of this?

i like the look of harness no 1 better than no 2. the first looks very like an agitation harness used to work schutzhund dogs. if using a chest ring i think you would need a breastplate piece like this to keep snap from rubbing dog.

i dont have any patterns best advice is if you have a harness that fits copy it...when i do custom harness i just take measurements, before sewing or riveting i tie the harness together and check for fit and placement of the pieces. making sure it is the way i want it before i actually assemble it.

[SimonJester753]

latigo is a good leather to use. as for padding...wool would possibly irritate the dog when wet and have to be careful getting it dry and will pick up burrs etc . my mom pads her service dogs harness with a synthetic wool pad that wraps around and velcros on so it can be easily removed for cleaning. i really wouldnt recommend a leather harness for swimming a dog.

ive never seen a harness with a chest leash attachment ..what would be the purpose of this?

i like the look of harness no 1 better than no 2. the first looks very like an agitation harness used to work schutzhund dogs. if using a chest ring i think you would need a breastplate piece like this to keep snap from rubbing dog.

i dont have any patterns best advice is if you have a harness that fits copy it...when i do custom harness i just take measurements, before sewing or riveting i tie the harness together and check for fit and placement of the pieces. making sure it is the way i want it before i actually assemble it.

http://www.sitstay.com/dog/supplies/servlet/product_10001_10001_59915_-1_Easy+Walk+Harness%2C+SmallMedium_13273_26908_13272

I'm currently using the harness in the above link. The leash attachment at the chest helps if the dog lunges, (like when they go after a pigeon), They hit the end of the lead and they get spun around, ending the lunge.

I've heard that the martingale at the attachment point can aggravate elbow problems, and my dog has enough elbow problems, so I'm not going to replicate it in leather.

The harness with the breast plate is listed as a walking/tracking harness. The Agitation Harnesses have a bigger breast plate and thicker padding.

This is the harness on a dog:

http://www.pitbull-store.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=3&zenid=f3b9d93f22b9f58c0044111d94c5f820

I'm figuring I'll take heavy paper or light cardboard and make a pattern and test fit it on my dog to get the rough strap lengths, then cut and fit the leather like you suggest.

[SimonJester753]

BTW, when I say "swim" I mean more like wade. There's a stream in the local park he likes to cool off in when I walk him. He can touch bottom. If I were taking him in a lake, I'd have a floatation vest/harness.

[SimonJester753]

harness.pdf

Here's my plan, so far. I have a few questions before I proceed.

There are 2 "T" shaped junctions, one on the top piece and one on the bottom piece. How would you join them? Rivet them together or form a loop in one strap and pull the other through? Or use a metal ring for the junction? Would the harness fit more securely one way or the other?

I'm thinking about moving the 2 buckles on the chest piece to the top piece. I've seen it done both ways. The advantage would be that the triangular plate becomes removable if there are no buckles on that piece. The disadvantage is that as it is now I could add some conchos to the straps that connect the top piece to the chest piece. If I switch the buckles the conchos might get covered by the strap ends. Of course, conchos might be a bit much.

I'm thinking of using a metal quick release buckle instead of one regular buckle on the bottom piece, so once it's adjusted it's just snap it closed and go. Plusses and minuses?

[roo4u]

well you can do the t junctions either way...the benefit of a loop thru which the other strap is that the waist piece is more adjustable that way (ie a nylon harness) and will fit more dogs. also with a loop you can slide the buckle part around the dogs chest to find the most comfortable fit for him.

buckle placement is mostly a matter of preference in your design...although the dogs structure can play a part in the design...some dogs will be bothered by buckle placement more than others. as for conchos...you could try loop back conchos they are meant for multiple layers of leather and to be moveable for adjustable tack. you could possibly sandwich the loop between your layers and use the concho as a keeper for your strap ends.

the only limit on the metal quick buckles is the thickness of the material they will accept...might not take a lined 8/10 oz leather piece.

if the leather will be getting wet often just make sure it gets the chance to dry out after each use. and use a good conditioner on it as water sucks the oils out of the leather.

[Spence]

Spinning a dog that is seriously lunging is dangerous for the dog. The harness itself should hold the dog back. But the dog needs further training to stop that lunging. I use a prong collar for all of my lungers and it calms them down rather quickly if the prong collar is fitted and used correctly. If the harness is properly adjusted, the dog should not be able to wiggle out of it.

What breed and size dog are you building this harness for? What is the end use going to be?

As 'roo4u' mentioned, leather would not be a good choice if the dog is going to be wading/swimming/splashing in water. You would have to strictly maintain it after every use.

For padding, I've used rabbit fur, sheepskin and foam padding with a pigskin or 1-2 oz calfskin liner.

re your design. I'd recommend adopting the breast plate design that is used for the pit-bull harness. I think your design has too much lateral movement in the plate itself, which could cause excessive wear and rubbing (sores and hair loss). I'd put rivets on either side of the D-ring on the top piece. There's going to be a lot of stress right there. In your original post, you have two pics of harnesses. The first, as 'roo4u' mentioned, is an Agitation harness, designed for a very serious, but under control, lunger. The second harness is a combo walking and/or tracking harness.

So, in the end it's all about the size, weight, breed and purpose of your dog. The level of obedience or other training you have put on the dog and plan to put on the dog plays a huge part in planning the harness. I have different harnesses for different purposes for my dogs. I raise and train my German Shepherds for military, personal protection and police k9 applications.

The harness you are currently using is for an obedience-trained dog, one that is always going to be heeling at your side.

G'luck

[SimonJester753]

He's not a big lunger, but once a pigeon popped out from under a parked car and he went off the curb after it. He hit the end of the leash when he was off the ground, and so he spun around. Normally, the easywalk harness just leads them back towards you.

The dog is an Amstaf/Dalmatian mix, or so the shelter says.

http://gallery.me.com/bill_vojtech#100024/Casper%20Tries%20to%20Climb%20a%20Tree

Here's a revised plan, with rivets. I'm planning on solid copper rivets with burrs.

Edited July 18, 2010 by SimonJester753

[SimonJester753]

couldn't get the new plan to load. One more try.

2-harness.pdf

[SimonJester753]

It's been a while, but it's done, for now.

I rebuilt the top section 3 times. The only place the rapid rivets were a problem was in the top section where the D-ring for the leash attachment is. They started coming apart, so when I rebuilt it I used Chicago screws.

I may rebuild the bottom section. Right now the lower part of the girth and the bottom strap all join to a metal ring. This allows the straps to rotate around the ring and I think it allows slack that causes the harness to sag a bit. But it works and I get compliments on it.

Here's a link to some pictures of it on my dog Casper:

http://tinyurl.com/4mgucyn

[SimonJester753]

I forgot to mention that I did not go with the copper rivets, I used rapid rivets because I could not get the copper rivets to look good enough on the peened side and I didn't want to put the peened side on the inside. The only place I didn't use the rapid rivets is on the top piece where the leash attachment "D" ring is.

I might rebuild the bottom section.

I'm also planning a lighter harness based on the design in this picture. I'm going to add a handle to the top so I can assist my dog in descending stairs and boost him into the car, (he has one elbow that was broken before the shelter picked him up).

Would 3/4" straps be too skinny for a dog just under 60 lbs?

[Mijo]

simon, it's funny that when i started messing around with making dog harnesses I used the same exact examples that you listed in your original post. I also had some of the same issues you appeared to have and had to slowly rebuild the harnesses until I came up with a design that worked the way I wanted it to. The harnesses I make are for small dogs (> 15 lbs) so I had to find ways to make the harnesses light and with less hardware, but I also had o-rings in my original design.

I also tried to make a harness based on similar picture in your last post but it didn't work out, i might go back and try and play with the design so that it does work. Dean and tyler makes a really good version of that harness, i think it's called a pull harness, and a leash that kinda goes with it.