Cutting And Saddle Stitch Punch Surface

[jc3persons]

What is best surface to cut the leather on,,,and best surface for punching a diamond saddle stitch punch,,and the best surface for drive hole punchs...I have looked the available stuff at

Tandy's and can't decide if i need a granite, poly cutting board ,or a poundo board or is it all three...I am working on small typing table with phone book and a couple small pieces of leather about

a half inch thick..As hard as the punching is there has got to better way ,,i have a heavy 3' by 5' wood desk which will become my work table soon..I am making some gun holsters and belt primarily

and my first one came out 100% functional,,,but about 65% to 75% in apperance...I am using 7-9 oz.leather, 2 piece for the belts and a combination smooth side and pig skin lining for the holster...

I know simple question but would appreciate advice from some long timer as this is first attempt..thanks,,have picked up some good stuff from just reading the forums!

[JLSleather]

Actually, I make long or large cuts right on the table. I bought a table about 6' long at a garage sale or something like that for like $10 (way less than the "poundo" board, though those do work). When it's marked up to the point where it doesn't work, it'll become kindling for the fire at the camp grounds. If you're thinking wood won't work, ask yer Gramma what her cutting board is made of

For punching, I find that a piece of heavy scrap leather on the same table works well. A palm-sized piece of the 8 oz leather you're using already will last a good while. All you need to do is get the punch THRU the leather without bashing it into something hard, and a scrap will do that well. Idea is just to not punch through BOTH layers. A chunk of wood works good, too. Use the end grain for this (find a fella cutting trees, and ask him to cut you off a 3" thick cross-section about a foot diameter, and yer good to go). If I was going that route, I'd look for a piece slightly larger than the holsters I'm making, then drill a hole in the center for ONE screw down into the table (it won't move one you, but you can still turn it).

Hope this helps!

Jeff

Edited July 25, 2010 by JLSleather

[jc3persons]

Actually, I make long or large cuts right on the table. I bought a table about 6' long at a garage sale or something like that for like $10 (way less than the "poundo" board, though those do work). When it's marked up to the point where it doesn't work, it'll become kindling for the fire at the camp grounds. If you're thinking wood won't work, ask yer Gramma what her cutting board is made of

For punching, I find that a piece of heavy scrap leather on the same table works well. A palm-sized piece of the 8 oz leather you're using already will last a good while. All you need to do is get the punch THRU the leather without bashing it into something hard, and a scrap will do that well. Idea is just to not punch through BOTH layers. A chunk of wood works good, too. Use the end grain for this (find a fella cutting trees, and ask him to cut you off a 3" thick cross-section about a foot diameter, and yer good to go). If I was going that route, I'd look for a piece slightly larger than the holsters I'm making, then drill a hole in the center for ONE screw down into the table (it won't move one you, but you can still turn it).

Hope this helps!

Jeff

thanks,,,i have several live oaks stump sections that i saved for whatever when neighbor cleared lots in 07,,will debark and debug and set on bench for a try(providing better half doesn't mind),,might shop

walmart for end grain cutting blocks also,,great site for learning,thanks again

[MikeCahill]

thanks,,,i have several live oaks stump sections that i saved for whatever when neighbor cleared lots in 07,,will debark and debug and set on bench for a try(providing better half doesn't mind),,might shop

walmart for end grain cutting blocks also,,great site for learning,thanks again

I use the end grain of a slice of an Elm log, it works fine, doesn't damage the tool, and when it gets chewed up run over it with an electric planer, as good as new! Other people I know use a block of lead, again when it gets too chewed up you can hammer it back flat, or melt It and recast it, I don't like it because it is a) toxic, and it oxidises, and the oxide dirty's your hands, and the job. I like the idea of fixing it to the bench so it can be rotated, but I would be sure to hit the screw, perhaps I would fix a wooden dowel in the bench top, and let it rotate around that

[JLSleather]

I like the idea of fixing it to the bench so it can be rotated, but I would be sure to hit the screw, perhaps I would fix a wooden dowel in the bench top, and let it rotate around that

That's true ... I should have pointed out the importance of setting the screw down in the block with a router or a counterbore. Recess it in half an inch or so, and you'll have room to resurface the block if you ever need to.

[THein]

What is best surface to cut the leather on,,,and best surface for punching a diamond saddle stitch punch,,and the best surface for drive hole punchs...I have looked the available stuff at

Tandy's and can't decide if i need a granite, poly cutting board ,or a poundo board or is it all three...I am working on small typing table with phone book and a couple small pieces of leather about

a half inch thick..As hard as the punching is there has got to better way ,,i have a heavy 3' by 5' wood desk which will become my work table soon..I am making some gun holsters and belt primarily

and my first one came out 100% functional,,,but about 65% to 75% in apperance...I am using 7-9 oz.leather, 2 piece for the belts and a combination smooth side and pig skin lining for the holster...

I know simple question but would appreciate advice from some long timer as this is first attempt..thanks,,have picked up some good stuff from just reading the forums!

Awhile back a neighbor brought me a large piece of puck board they use in lining hockey rinks. It's easy on the knife and not really expensive. I checked in town and a 4x8 sheet was $40.00. Our local lumber yard will sell it in smaller pieces too. If you need a large cutting surface, this is a good way to go. Plus, if one side gets too hacked up, you flip it over and go again.

The end grain of a block of wood is probably the best for punching. The poundo board is pretty good or you could get a piece of neolite soling from your local shoe repair shop pretty reasonable.

Terry

www.singletreeleather.com

[bex DK]

Our cutting table is covered with food quality plastic. Fine for cutting, but I find it wears hard on the punchers and the chisels. I try to use a piece of scrap leather under when doing that.

Just using the table isn't na option here... I am always working either on the good dining room table or the coffee table. So lucky I have some different sizes of plastic. No idea where you get this stuff. Most of ours is scrap / trash from the factory where my hubby works. It's about the same as the plastic cutting boards sold cheap all over, just bigger pieces.