What Part Of The Hide?

[Deanimator]

When you buy a good piece of hide, what part do you get? Side? Shoulders? What's the best, most economical choice for general holster making?

And while we're at it, would you just walk into Tandy or mail order, either from Tandy or somebody else?

Thanks.

[JLSleather]

Unless you personally know the guy(s) at the store, it's ALWAYS a good idea to SEE the leather you're buying. Appearance, smell, feel, ...

[Deanimator]

Does anyone know anything about Cleveland Crafts & Leather? They appear to have two locations.

Heretofore, my leather buying has been guided by a keen ignorance on my part. I'm trying to be smarter in my purchases, since I don't have much money to spend and none at all to waste.

[gregintenn]

I buy 7/8 ounce double shoulders from Tandy. About twice a year, they have a great sale on them. I assume they are seconds or leftovers. They are about half the normal price. Really good stuff to make holsters with. Some will tell you to buy a better quality leather, but I've found that with a little planning, I can hid the few imperfections I find on them on the backside of holsters, or else cut out as scrap. I end up with quality holsters and very little scrap at a very attractive price. Don't be afriad to dig through the piles of hides, as some are better than others. Another benefit of going to the Tandy store in person is that they've taught me something every time I go in. The dark haired lady that works at the one Nashville is extremely nice and very helpful.

[Deanimator]

I buy 7/8 ounce double shoulders from Tandy. About twice a year, they have a great sale on them. I assume they are seconds or leftovers. They are about half the normal price. Really good stuff to make holsters with. Some will tell you to buy a better quality leather, but I've found that with a little planning, I can hid the few imperfections I find on them on the backside of holsters, or else cut out as scrap. I end up with quality holsters and very little scrap at a very attractive price. Don't be afriad to dig through the piles of hides, as some are better than others. Another benefit of going to the Tandy store in person is that they've taught me something every time I go in. The dark haired lady that works at the one Nashville is extremely nice and very helpful.

Thanks. That's useful information.

I called them earlier and asked about veg tanned sides, and the guy I talked to said that a medium grade 7-8oz. was in the vicinity of $200. I didn't know if shoulders were acceptable or not. My looking around on the web tells me they're more in my price range.

As I said previously, my selection skills have been iffy at best. At least by now, I'm starting to build up a little knowledge and experience.

I'm still trying to figure out what weight to use for the belt clip cover. I figure something 5lb. or less is necessary for it not to interfere with use of the clip.

I want to get started on the M1911 versions of my tuckable IWB, but want to do things in an economically rational, repeatable way.

[katsass]

When you buy a good piece of hide, what part do you get? Side? Shoulders? What's the best, most economical choice for general holster making?

And while we're at it, would you just walk into Tandy or mail order, either from Tandy or somebody else?

Thanks.

Gotta agree with gregintenn. Shoulders or double shoulders. Bellies are too flexible and will not form up and mold well, and backs are generally too heavy. Shoulders work out perfectly and, if on sale at Tandy, you get a lot for your money. Mike

Edited August 1, 2010 by katsass

[gregintenn]

I just got a Tandy ad today. They have, if I remember correctly, single shoulders, 6-8 square feet, in 4-5 and 6-7oz weights for $19.99. A single shoulder contains enough leather for quite a few small holsters. I expect you know this, but I've read that vegetable tanned leather is pretty much the only type leather you can moisten and mold or tool.

Edited August 1, 2010 by gregintenn

[Deanimator]

I just got a Tandy ad today. They have, if I remember correctly, single shoulders, 6-8 square feet, in 4-5 and 6-7oz weights for $19.99. A single shoulder contains enough leather for quite a few small holsters. I expect you know this, but I've read that vegetable tanned leather is pretty much the only type leather you can moisten and mold or tool.

I was told right off the bat that veg tanned was the only way to go, and I've never heard anything to contradict that.

Shoulders seems like the way to go.

Thanks.

[gregintenn]

In the interest of full disclosure, I will tell you that the shoulder is the only part of the hide I've attempted to use. When I first started, I was steered toward the shoulder, it worked, and I've found no reason to try anything else. Other parts could be even better for all I know, but the shoulder has done exactly what I've wanted it to do.

[horsewreck]

If you are going to make a lot of holsters and belts as well you might want to buy sides, but as has been said shoulders work great for a few holsters. Shoulders also let you try different weights and leathers without getting a huge amount of money tied up in large chunks of leather..... Jeff

[Deanimator]

Anybody have a recommendation for the weight of the clip cover? I'm thinking under 5oz., but would like a recommendation for somebody who's actually made one. I don't want to reinvent the wheel, since I know the way that Hume and Bianchi (albeit in plastic) do it works. I just need the proper material.

[JoelR]

When I first started making hosters about a year and a half ago, I had the same concerns with leather price. Once I bit-the-bullet and started buying better quality leather, I have not looked back. I won't touch a Tandy hide any more. The last side I purchased was directly from Wickett and Craig and was marked as a grade C on their overstock list. I think it cost me $80 + shipping. Two small flaws on the entire skin that will need worked around.