Garange Report post Posted August 6, 2010 I just received my Cobra Class 4 a couple of weeks ago. Love the machine but still trying to figure it out. I've been hand stitching for over a year and went to a machine to save time. When I clip the thread after sewing it will unravel at times leaving a hole from the thread. I guess I'm clipping the knot that holds it together? What do others do to prevent this? Back stitch a couple of times, burn the thread, tie a knot, etc. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted August 6, 2010 I just received my Cobra Class 4 a couple of weeks ago. Love the machine but still trying to figure it out. I've been hand stitching for over a year and went to a machine to save time. When I clip the thread after sewing it will unravel at times leaving a hole from the thread. I guess I'm clipping the knot that holds it together? What do others do to prevent this? Back stitch a couple of times, burn the thread, tie a knot, etc. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. back stich 3-4 stiches, then pull the thread to the backside and burn, works for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra Steve Report post Posted August 6, 2010 back stich 3-4 stiches, then pull the thread to the backside and burn, works for me. Thanks Luke, I agree. Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garange Report post Posted August 7, 2010 back stich 3-4 stiches, then pull the thread to the backside and burn, works for me. Thanks Luke. Makes sense. Gary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garange Report post Posted August 7, 2010 Thanks Luke, I agree. Steve Thanks for the advice Steve to both you and Luke. Can't wait to receive the burnisher. Gary Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ShortBBL Report post Posted August 7, 2010 back stich 3-4 stiches, then pull the thread to the backside and burn, works for me. How do you burn it? Cut it first and then burn with a lighter or something?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigRiverLeather Report post Posted August 7, 2010 (edited) How do you burn it? Cut it first and then burn with a lighter or something?? I use a lighter. I've used a mini propane torch before and that worked better, just faster. What I don't like about burning it is it leaves a very hard, sharp spot. I'm afraid that it will be an irritant on a holster, especially if it is IWB. I keep meaning to try this, but have not yet. Here is a picture of how to make a stitching not. Leave your ends long, put a needle on both ends, make a couple saddle stitches and cinch it up like this. I need to try that this weekend. Edited August 7, 2010 by BigRiverLeather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Garange Report post Posted August 13, 2010 I use a lighter. I've used a mini propane torch before and that worked better, just faster. What I don't like about burning it is it leaves a very hard, sharp spot. I'm afraid that it will be an irritant on a holster, especially if it is IWB. I keep meaning to try this, but have not yet. Here is a picture of how to make a stitching not. Leave your ends long, put a needle on both ends, make a couple saddle stitches and cinch it up like this. I need to try that this weekend. Thanks for the photo. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CDragonworks Report post Posted September 14, 2010 First check to see your threads are tensioned evenly... they should lock in the center of the two pieces(I use two thread colours to check with). If all is good there backstitch and either burn or glue if it keeps doing it... I backstitch and never have a problem!Cat I just received my Cobra Class 4 a couple of weeks ago. Love the machine but still trying to figure it out. I've been hand stitching for over a year and went to a machine to save time. When I clip the thread after sewing it will unravel at times leaving a hole from the thread. I guess I'm clipping the knot that holds it together? What do others do to prevent this? Back stitch a couple of times, burn the thread, tie a knot, etc. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ShortBBL Report post Posted September 19, 2010 I too had this problem when I first got my machine. I made another post here somewhere about it... but here is what I did.... I went to SEARS and bought a very small Butane operated Sodering iron. The thing is about 4-5" long only. It has no flame and works awesome!! No burn marks... no muss no fuss. I pull my thread ends tight, making sure they are locked in the middle.... then snip close to the leather and solder! It melts down very easy and perfectly. It's the best way to do this in my estimation.... I tried glue, a lighter and match... nothing..... I do tis on EVERY snipped stitch and its PERFECT.... no way can it unravel. Try it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EricDobson Report post Posted September 19, 2010 The soldering iron sounds like a great idea. Did a quick search and there seem to be some reasonably priced options, plus they seem to get 2-3 hours on one butane cartridge so I imagine you can finish a LOT of stitches on one fill. So doing this you never have issues with a sharp point sticking out? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EricDobson Report post Posted September 20, 2010 Also, is this type of soldering iron basically instant-on, or does it need to be kept warmed up somehow? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ShortBBL Report post Posted September 20, 2010 Also, is this type of soldering iron basically instant-on, or does it need to be kept warmed up somehow? You can melt and with the tool, just kinda press the thread down... it leaves no sharp type piece of thread.... you can rub it with your finger if there is anything sticking up (when still warm/hot). It takes about 20-30 seconds to be hot enough to melt good. I use it every time and it works so perfect. I was worried at first, but once i found this trick... YES... very happy!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Double U Leather Report post Posted September 21, 2010 Someone else posted something about this a while back. They said to backstitch a few stitches, and then clip the threads and put just a tiny drop of super glue on the cut ends. I've also heard, and use, clear fingernail polish. I used to tie knots and then melt, but as was mentioned, it either left a black smoke mark, or it left a sharp point. I haven't used the fingernail polish method for long, but so far it seems to work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ShortBBL Report post Posted September 22, 2010 Every method you mention here (not your, but others ideas I think) are a big pain in the butt... messy (glue) etc etc. The tiny butane soldering iron works SO easy, clean, neat etc. Yes, still backstich two-three holes, snip and solder. PERFECT way to do it.... it can't come undone aft er this, unless somebody really tried hard to get it apart. Someone else posted something about this a while back. They said to backstitch a few stitches, and then clip the threads and put just a tiny drop of super glue on the cut ends. I've also heard, and use, clear fingernail polish. I used to tie knots and then melt, but as was mentioned, it either left a black smoke mark, or it left a sharp point. I haven't used the fingernail polish method for long, but so far it seems to work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EricDobson Report post Posted September 22, 2010 Every method you mention here (not your, but others ideas I think) are a big pain in the butt... messy (glue) etc etc. The tiny butane soldering iron works SO easy, clean, neat etc. Yes, still backstich two-three holes, snip and solder. PERFECT way to do it.... it can't come undone aft er this, unless somebody really tried hard to get it apart. Alright you convinced me. I'm just getting started with basic stitching in the next couple weeks. I'll give all these methods a try and see how it goes. I can definitely imagine the benefits to soldering. I like the idea that you're not adding a substance, or gluing it together, or coating it, but just melting the thread itself so there's nothing to come apart or undone. I'm not saying the other methods do come apart if done well... I just like the idea of this better. I'll have to see how it actually works out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted September 22, 2010 Then there is the electric cautery. Mine is a Bovie and they seem to be the largest player in the game and everyone calls them that no matter what the brand. Mine came from the Vet, new in the box for about $20. I've had it for years so it's not something new. It uses AA batteries and heats up in about 2 or three seconds. Works like a soldering iron but finer tip, tips are replaceable but I haven't needed a new one yet. It is about the size of a big pen. Tips get verrrryyyyy hot! Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EricDobson Report post Posted September 22, 2010 Then there is the electric cautery. Mine is a Bovie and they seem to be the largest player in the game and everyone calls them that no matter what the brand. Mine came from the Vet, new in the box for about $20. I've had it for years so it's not something new. It uses AA batteries and heats up in about 2 or three seconds. Works like a soldering iron but finer tip, tips are replaceable but I haven't needed a new one yet. It is about the size of a big pen. I did a search and found some cautery pens, in the price range & battery size mentioned, but they all seem to be advertised as single use. Do you know if there are some that aren't? Or is that just what they say and you can use them indefinitely with this light use? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted September 22, 2010 The Bovie I have has replaceable tips so I don't think it is for single use. Maybe the newer ones are but if it had replaceable tips it is for multiple use. The ones I have seen in hospitals are fixed units with a cord that stay in the OR. Nowadays, instruments are sterile in bags, and I wouldn't expect very good results after running mine through the autoclave. In that way, single use yes, but they use them multiple times during a surgery to fix bleeders etc. Art I did a search and found some cautery pens, in the price range & battery size mentioned, but they all seem to be advertised as single use. Do you know if there are some that aren't? Or is that just what they say and you can use them indefinitely with this light use? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trox Report post Posted October 10, 2010 Hammering the seam so the stitches closing around the thread. Then cut the thread all off with a sharp pointed scissors dont burn it. Trox I just received my Cobra Class 4 a couple of weeks ago. Love the machine but still trying to figure it out. I've been hand stitching for over a year and went to a machine to save time. When I clip the thread after sewing it will unravel at times leaving a hole from the thread. I guess I'm clipping the knot that holds it together? What do others do to prevent this? Back stitch a couple of times, burn the thread, tie a knot, etc. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handstitched Report post Posted January 27, 2011 G'Day , my response is 'better late than never', but nonetheless , I had a post pertaining to a similar problem 'To Back stitch or not to back stitch' ( or somethng like that). I got some good helpful responses from that. Since then I always back stitch 3-4 stitches. However , I have never tried burning the ends. I might experiment with that. all the best , HS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites