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I am looking for a sewing machine to use in making holsters. I used a Tippmann Boss and liked it. I have a chance to trade a Pistol I own for a Singer 269w9 machine. I googled it and it is a Patcher. Can a patcher be made into a simple stitching machine? The company also has a "Metro Special" shoe repair machine with what appears to be a hand wheel on the front as well as a belt drive system. It appears to have a reducer as it has several pulleys before it gets to the motor. I know it is a long arm shoe patcher type head that can go 360 degrees. Would this be a better option? They also have a bunch of three phase machines. A few Consews, Jukis and others. I assume a 3 phase just refers to the motor and that you could replace that with a 110 volt servo motor but I am not sure. The pistol is valued at $500 or so. I could buy a machine out right but I am having trouble finding one that will do two pieces of 8-9 oz leather in my $500 price range. I need help here guys. What is my best options. Any help is very much appreciated.

BTW The company I am dealing with used to make leather items for bows but no longer does. The staff doesn't know much about these machines so I am stuck with what I buy.

Edited by GunNut

Gn

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I am looking for a sewing machine to use in making holsters. I used a Tippmann Boss and liked it. I have a chance to trade a Pistol I own for a Singer 269w9 machine. I googled it and it is a Patcher. Can a patcher be made into a simple stitching machine? The company also has a "Metro Special" shoe repair machine with what appears to be a hand wheel on the front as well as a belt drive system. It appears to have a reducer as it has several pulleys before it gets to the motor. I know it is a long arm shoe patcher type head that can go 360 degrees. Would this be a better option? They also have a bunch of three phase machines. A few Consews, Jukis and others. I assume a 3 phase just refers to the motor and that you could replace that with a 110 volt servo motor but I am not sure. The pistol is valued at $500 or so. I could buy a machine out right but I am having trouble finding one that will do two pieces of 8-9 oz leather in my $500 price range. I need help here guys. What is my best options. Any help is very much appreciated.

BTW The company I am dealing with used to make leather items for bows but no longer does. The staff doesn't know much about these machines so I am stuck with what I buy.

Um, a Singer 269 is a bartacker, not a patcher. A bartacker sews a tight zig-zag stitch about 1/8" high and 5/8" to 3/4" wide across velcro, or whatever you clamp under the elongated pressor foot. They are commonly used to affix Velcro to shoes, vests, jackets, etc. You cannot "sew" anything with a bartacker; only tack bars of tight zig-zags across the material. Each press of the foot control pedal causes a cam to rotate and creates the sideways/forward-backward motion for one complete cycle, then stops, with the needle up.

A shoe patcher (Singer 29k series) is suitable for sewing shoes, boots, zippers, patching holes, sewing on patches, etc. Most newer models can sew over 5/16" of leather, but are limited to #69 or #92 thread in the bobbin and #92 or #138 thread on top. The old 29-4 machines can only sew 1/4" under the foot.

There are two bobbin sizes on Singer and Adler patchers. The small bobbin is only 5/8" x 1/4", with a 1/4" OD post in the center. They hold a tiny amount of thread compared to most home sewing machine bobbins. The large bobbin machines have a bobbin that measures 3/4" x 5/16" - which holds as much as a Singer class 66 bobbin.

Patchers have long snouts, narrow on the left and wide on the right. They are either 12" or 18" length, from the left end to the inside of the body, on the right. Most are hand and foot operated, by a treadle pedal that pivots and spins a drive pulley. A 70" belt goes up to a pulley on the back of the machine to operate it. Some patchers have the hand wheel on the back, others have it on the front-right.

Short arm patchers with small bobbins are no good for holsters. They don't have enough lift. Long arm patchers can sew pancake holsters, using #138 thread, top and bottom. Since you don't use a lot of thread on a holster, the small bobbins are not a big problem. The pressor foot on all patchers has teeth on the bottom, which will mark top grain veg-tan leather. Patchers don't have mounting holes for edge guides, making it difficult to sew straight lines of stitches. Some lack the thumbscrew on the front of the sewing head, which is used to lock the revolving feed mechanism in place. Without locking it down, the pressor foot tends to wander.

Most patchers can use needles up to #23 and maybe #24 (long arm, big bobbin). A short arm model will be better limited to a #22 needle.

Motors.

3 phase motors run on 220 volts systems and have special 220 volt plugs. They are of limited, if any use in residential locations. Many 120 volt single phase industrial machines have a clutch motor installed. These are powerful motors, especially the 1/2 HP - 1725 RPM motors. Most come with a 3" or larger pulley, which is totally useless for sewing leather. For about $12 you can buy a 2" pulley (x 3/4" ID) to fit a clutch motor, slowing it down by up to 50% (needs a shorter v-belt). For about $125 you can buy a speed reducer pulley wheel that brings it down to maybe 2 or 3 stitches per second. That is a very controllable speed and will allow you to sew dense leather without excessively overheating the needle, melting the thread and burnishing the leather. A hot needle also tends to get stuck in the leather.

You should be able to find a decent, used-but-functional walking foot machine at a local upholstery shop in the $500-$600 range. A walking foot machine typically has 7/16" - to 1/2" maximum lift under the feet (and point of the raised needle) and can sew about 3/8" of leather, if you slow it down with a small (2") motor pulley, or speed reducer wheel, or servo motor.

My post at the top of this forum describes various types of leather sewing machines and drive systems. Take a look at the photos and adjust your plans accordingly. If you trade you $500 gun for a machine made to sew garments or patch holes in jackets and shoes, you will be very disappointed when you find it won't sew holsters as you thought it would.

For your info, if you intend to sew serious holsters, with fillers along the outside edge, forget the flatbed walking foot machines, unless you stumble across an Adler 204 model, or an equivalent Japanese model. I had one of those. It weighed over 200 pounds and could sew 3/4" of leather, with a #25 needle and #277 thread. Most holster makers use #277, or #346 bonded nylon or polyester, or else 5 or 6 cord linen thread - run through liquid wax, in a wax pot. The machines capable of handling this thread and properly sewing through 3/4 inch of dense veg-tan leather are made especially for leather work. Most are cylinder arm machines, with a special walking or jumping foot - needle feed mechanism and are geared way down, to a few stitches per second. They are sold under such brand names as Cowboy, Cobra, Juki 441, Adler 205, Ferdinand Bull, Luberto Classic, Artisan, Techsew 180, et al. We have member dealers who sell and service these machines. You can get them in arm lengths from 9" to 24" and prices starting at around $1700, going up to $3500.

I hope this helps.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Thanks for the reply sir! I am not trying to be obtuse but let me see if I understand. The Tacker will not work at all. I got that part. The Shoe machine might work if it is geared correctly? Most of my Pancake holsters are in the 5-6 oz leather range. Two peices should be well under the 3/8 of an inch. In fact most of my work is well under that, pancake or otherwise. Would you be able to tell via pictures if it is geared correctly? Am I to understand then that a 3 phase will not work at all even with a new motor? Again thank you for your help. I am rereading your post about machines again now.

Gn

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Thanks for the reply sir! I am not trying to be obtuse but let me see if I understand. The Tacker will not work at all. I got that part. The Shoe machine might work if it is geared correctly? Most of my Pancake holsters are in the 5-6 oz leather range. Two peices should be well under the 3/8 of an inch. In fact most of my work is well under that, pancake or otherwise. Would you be able to tell via pictures if it is geared correctly? Am I to understand then that a 3 phase will not work at all even with a new motor? Again thank you for your help. I am rereading your post about machines again now.

Ya missed it by that - much! A shoe patcher, if it is motorized at all, is already geared way down. They are not built for speed. They are meant to sew a few stitches per second, for a short run, then stop. Most are treadle operated by foot power alone, giving you about 2 stitches per second maximum. A motorized patcher will have a pulley of maybe 3 inches on it. The pulley on the back of the machine is about 6" in diameter. You already get a 1:2 reduction. Put a 2" pulley on the motor and you get 1:3 speed. Given that a clutch motor can be feathered at slow speed, especially from a clunky machine like a patcher, it is easy to feather control them at one or two stitches per second. A servo motor makes it even easier to control any machine. They have speed limiter control knobs on the back of the motor. Can you say "1 stitch every three seconds?"

You are confused about the term 3 phase. It applies entirely to a 220 volt motor and its matching wiring harness. If you replace the 3 phase motor with a 2 phase, 110 volt model, with a new wiring harness and switch box, they will be compatible with residential electrical outlets. I recommend a servo motor with built in gear reduction. Bob Kovar sells them at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines.

Don't worry about the motor until you have a machine and table to attach it to.

I fear you are going to be tossing away some valuable goods and money. A shoe patcher is really only meant to sew shoe uppers. I'd hate to think about you building a nice custom molded holster and the client sees the tooth marks on top around the stitch line and refuses to buy it. You really should save up and buy a walking or jumping foot - needle feed machine, that was built and set-up to sew thick and dense leather. Even a used walking foot flatbed machine is better than a patcher, as long as you gear it down (2" motor pulley, gear reduction servo motor, or speed reducer double pulley) and use pressor feet without teeth. A cylinder arm walking foot machine, with narrow pressor feet that sit very close to the left edge, is even better. Most will sew with #138 nylon thread and a #22 leather point needle, which is the bare minimum for pancake holsters. Many of the commercial walking foot machines, like Juki and Consew, with the large M bobbin, can sew with #207 thread and a #23 - 24 needle.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted

Actually that makes it all much clearer in my mind. I will "Get Smart"er as I go. LOL The gentleman I am working with at the company sent me a list of the machines for sale. Do any of these look usable for Holster making assuming I have the correct motor to go with the bed and head?

Make Model No Electrical

Juki LU-2210-6 3 phase

Juki DLN-5410N-7 3 phase

Singer 20U33 3 phase

Juki LZH-1290-6 3 phase

Brother LT2-B838 3 phase

Juki AMS-224B 3 phase

Metro Special 9346-10/01 110 single

Juki LU-2210-6 3 phase

Wilcox Gibbs 500IV 110 single (Surger)

Juki LU-2210-N-7 3 phase

Brother 3 phase

Consew 206RBLATCL(N)-3 3 phase

Juki LU-2210N-7 3 phase

Pfaff 335-H3-6/01-BSN 110 single

Singer 2366120 3 phase

Gn

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Posted

The only machine in that list that I would even look at is the Consew 206RBLATCL(N)-3. This is an older model of the Consew 206RB series used by upholstery shops everywhere. They are made in Japan (I think) and are well built. Parts are plentiful, as are accessories. You can get all manner of pressor feet for this machine. Of course, you'd need to see it in operation before buying it, as who knows if it even sews now?

If these machines are being sold sight-unseen, pass on them. You will have to replace the motor and wiring harness, adding another $175 or so to the price you're paying.

Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines, has new and used walking foot machines and heavy leather stitchers, with servo motors installed, at very good prices. They are set-up, sewn off and ready to ship. Let me know if you want his number.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted

Actually that makes it all much clearer in my mind. I will "Get Smart"er as I go. LOL The gentleman I am working with at the company sent me a list of the machines for sale. Do any of these look usable for Holster making assuming I have the correct motor to go with the bed and head?

Make Model No Electrical

Juki LU-2210-6 3 phase

Juki DLN-5410N-7 3 phase

Singer 20U33 3 phase

Juki LZH-1290-6 3 phase

Brother LT2-B838 3 phase

Juki AMS-224B 3 phase

Metro Special 9346-10/01 110 single

Juki LU-2210-6 3 phase

Wilcox Gibbs 500IV 110 single (Surger)

Juki LU-2210-N-7 3 phase

Brother 3 phase

Consew 206RBLATCL(N)-3 3 phase

Juki LU-2210N-7 3 phase

Pfaff 335-H3-6/01-BSN 110 single

Singer 2366120 3 phase

Any of the 3 phase machines will have to have the motor changed to single phase to work on your household current. The Pfaff 335-H3 sounds like what you need. It is a cylinder arm, with high lift foot and walking foot feed. It also has reverse feed and should be heavy enough to sew any of your holsters. But could be cost prohibitive to you if you want something in the $500 range. Wizcraft could tell you for sure about the machine!

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Posted (edited)

I have been Googling each machine but I am no expert on the terms being used. So the Consew 206Rblatcl(n) and Pfaff 335-H3 are candidates. What should I offer for a decent machine? Supposedly all these machines where working and in use when they stopped production.

Edit to add. WOW you guys already responded! LOL I know I will need the motor and wiring which if I get the machine at a good price would be fine. I can physically look at and touch any machine. Any basics to look for when checking them out? They all have a table.

Edited by GunNut

Gn

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Posted (edited)

Opps posted by mistake

Edited by GunNut

Gn

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Posted

Absolutely, the PFAFF Model 335-H3! Put a gear reduction servo motor and new belt on it and you'll have a nice medium weight stitcher. Just don't expect this machine to sew #277 thread.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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