Holster guts

[drof99]

I am using 8/9 oz leather to make my holsters. They turn out good for as long as I have been doing it. The inside of the holster is a little ruff. What can you do to smooth out the inside? I have been thinking of going a little lighter on holster material and lining the inside with a light weight leather. Is that the way to go for a better look? If that is the case what weight is best for the holster and the lining? What kind of cement would you use to get the two to stay together? Would you just line the area that gun sits in or the whole thing? If anyone has some pics of lines holsters I'd like to see a few. Thank for the help.

[Shorts]

You can use a sealant to coat the inside. Depending on the type, some are harder than others. So far I've only used Satin Sheen and Tan Kote to seal the inside. Tan Kote dries harder the Satin Sheen.

I believe Resolene is used as well. I have no experience with that yet so I cannot tell you how it feels.

I don't line my holsters with anything. But suede is the one I see used most often.

It was common talk that the chemicals in suede liners wasn't good for guns, but again, just talk I've heard/read. I don't have any experience with the damage the suede can or cannot do to a gun's finish. Or how long it takes/conditions/time needed for damage to occur. For all I know, its just a myth.

For cement, I've used 3M Super Adhesive, but when available, Gorilla glue. I flip the pattern to the inside and trace the stitch lines with a Sharpie (so I know where to put glue), then rough the glue areas with 100grit sandpaper, then apply glue to both pieces of leather. Wait a minute or so to let the glue get tacky and stick them together. I lay a hardback book on top for some weight so it stay good and flat.

Edited April 26, 2008 by Shorts

[Shorts]

I wanted to post this up:

The outside are finished with Satin Sheen. The middle section is with Tan Kote. And there are my stitch lines for reference. Normally I wouldn't coat where I put the glue. This was just a "cut away" project purely for reference on what the products finish like.

[Srigs]

I use Resolene with a 50/50 mixture with water to dip the whole holster and when dry just insert the form a number of times to smooth out the inside. You can also spoon the leather area to smooth out the rough inside. I also choose smooth inside leather and don't worry about lining. Works for me.

[Andy]

Shorts, (all)

re: Holster lining

I have taken some suede lining leather and tested it against steel, some of it REALLY rusts it up BADLY (as in, BAD BAD BAD!), some of the prosthetic suedes are gun-friendly. (test first).

Andy

[barra]

Wouldn't suede on the inside become a grit trap and then abrade the gun blue-ing?

Barra

[Shorts]

Shorts, (all)

re: Holster lining

I have taken some suede lining leather and tested it against steel, some of it REALLY rusts it up BADLY (as in, BAD BAD BAD!), some of the prosthetic suedes are gun-friendly. (test first).

Andy

Andy, thanks for posting your info. I thought that's what suede would do but never seen it or tested it myself. And I certainly wasn't going to choose my gun as the guinea pig! Was the steel you used raw? I'd like to do a little experiment with blued and parkerized pieces. Afterall blue is rust, but blued steel will still rust/pit. Parkerized is etched and coated, and absorbs oil, so it might be more durable. Ah, I'm hijacking the thread with my thinking outloud here. If I go ahead with it, I'll post the info.

[3NGunLeather]

I prefer to use "pigskin" or "calf hide" and place the pieces back to back so the smooth sides are both facing out. The pigskin is very light and durable and comes in a variety of colors. The calf hide is a bit thicker so I very the holster leather pending oz. of the calf hide used for the lining. I typically use 8 - 10 oz. for holsters with pigskin, and 6 - 8 with calf. You can use glues to help when molding holsters and liners, but I don't care for the way my machines operate going thru the glues.

[Rhome]

When I order leather i get shoulders and bends, I use the shoulders for my holsters and bends for belts, I order grade "A" leather which usually comes nice and smooth (clear). Also shoulders tend to stay stiffer longer and don't tend to stretch as much as other cuts of leather.