How To Finish An Antiqued Project

[CitizenKate]

So, here is the actuall question:

Is there a way to get antique stains and finish water resistant AND matt, no matter if the project is carved or not?

...

I'd love to read how you do your antique jobs and if somebody nows a good method/product that might work for me or even got a good reciep for making your own antique stains that will stay matt and are water resistant

I do a lot of antiquing (about 99% of my projects get antique applied to them) and I also prefer more of a matte or satin finish. (Too glossy looks too much like plastic to me.) There are a few different finishes I use, depending on how water-resistant/proof I need the finished item to be.

Most wax finishes are fairly water-resistant, but not water-proof. I use it on items that will not normally be used outdoors or exposed to a harsh environment. There are several good products in this category that give leather a nice satin finish are Bee-Natural, just about any neutral shoe polish, or Aussie Wax. I've used all of these with good results. (The shoe polish goes on better if it's applied with a soft-bristled shoe brush.)

If you need water-proof, I haven't found anything yet that beats a lacquer finish. Since you can't get Neat-Lac any more, a great alternative I found (actually David Theobald turned me onto it) is Deft clear satin wood finish. Indy, I'm not sure what you're going to find available in Austria (where there are no kangaroos <grin>), but probably any lacquer-based satin wood finish that you find in lumber or hardware stores would make a suitable alternative.

There's a trick to applying a lacquer finish. If you put it on too heavily, or if it puddles in the tooling impressions, it will form a plastic-y layer of solid finish that will crack when the leather is flexed. You only want as much on the leather as will absorb into it. So apply it in 2 or 3 very light coats. If you have carving or tooling, use a piece of sheepskin to apply it. Wipe it on, work it in a bit, then wipe off as much as you can. Let it dry to the touch between coats.

Kate

[terrymac]

I do a lot of antiquing (about 99% of my projects get antique applied to them) and I also prefer more of a matte or satin finish. (Too glossy looks too much like plastic to me.) There are a few different finishes I use, depending on how water-resistant/proof I need the finished item to be.

Most wax finishes are fairly water-resistant, but not water-proof. I use it on items that will not normally be used outdoors or exposed to a harsh environment. There are several good products in this category that give leather a nice satin finish are Bee-Natural, just about any neutral shoe polish, or Aussie Wax. I've used all of these with good results. (The shoe polish goes on better if it's applied with a soft-bristled shoe brush.)

If you need water-proof, I haven't found anything yet that beats a lacquer finish. Since you can't get Neat-Lac any more, a great alternative I found (actually David Theobald turned me onto it) is Deft clear satin wood finish. Indy, I'm not sure what you're going to find available in Austria (where there are no kangaroos <grin>), but probably any lacquer-based satin wood finish that you find in lumber or hardware stores would make a suitable alternative.

There's a trick to applying a lacquer finish. If you put it on too heavily, or if it puddles in the tooling impressions, it will form a plastic-y layer of solid finish that will crack when the leather is flexed. You only want as much on the leather as will absorb into it. So apply it in 2 or 3 very light coats. If you have carving or tooling, use a piece of sheepskin to apply it. Wipe it on, work it in a bit, then wipe off as much as you can. Let it dry to the touch between coats.

Kate

Kate,

You can't get Neatlac per se, but you can get the same product now called Clearlac. Bobby Parks spoke with the manufacturer, and they assured him it was the same product, different name. I think Springifield Leather is handling it as well as Panhandle Leather in Amarillo. I am just about out of Neatlac and will get getting some Clearlac shortly.

Terry

Edited September 12, 2010 by terrymac

[Indy]

guys,

thank you a lot for all the info, that was quit a bit allready.I will wait now until all my liquids arrive at my doorstep and will play a little arround with the eco flo and my remaining Fiebings antique stain and fool around with your described sealing methods. I let you know how it goes