First Holster Project- Iwb

[Nooj]

Thanks for the replies, yall. Being that this holster will be stuck in my pants, I guess coloration really doesn't matter after all.

Katsass- Thanks for the advice. It's all well taken. The stitching around the trigger is a lil too far out- I layed out my stitch lines 1/2 inch from the outline of the gun. I guess I thought the stitching would pull up closer to the gun when formed- I'll adjust the next to account for the compound curves in that area.

Since you dye before forming, are you using oil based dye? I used the Eco-flo water based stuff, so I did my forming prior to dyeing because I didn't know if wetting it down would affect it. Other than that, the sequence of events you discribed are what I had in mind.

Nooj

[Nooj]

Here are more pictures for ya. The first is showing where I trimmed the rear to allow for a better thumb hold when grasping the pistol (I also trimmed the front down a lil). There is one pic after I finished airbrushing it. I used dark mahogany, and went around the edges with bison brown. And then a shot of what it looks like when you get antsy and don't wait for the dye to dry before trying to seal it, lol. The last two are the finished product.

Thanks for lookin! Your input or suggestions are always welcome :-)

Nooj

[katsass]

Thanks for the replies, yall. Being that this holster will be stuck in my pants, I guess coloration really doesn't matter after all.

Katsass- Thanks for the advice. It's all well taken. The stitching around the trigger is a lil too far out- I layed out my stitch lines 1/2 inch from the outline of the gun. I guess I thought the stitching would pull up closer to the gun when formed- I'll adjust the next to account for the compound curves in that area.

Since you dye before forming, are you using oil based dye? I used the Eco-flo water based stuff, so I did my forming prior to dyeing because I didn't know if wetting it down would affect it. Other than that, the sequence of events you discribed are what I had in mind.

Nooj

For the quick answer..........yes. I use Fiebing's Pro Oil Dyes.........only. I find that they produce (for me) a more uniform job than anything else. I say Fiebing's only, but I do use my own vinegaroon for black, and soon I'll try out an old recipe for dye I'll make from walnut hull. Almost all of my holsters are made from two layers of leather, bonded with their flesh sides together, producing a smooth inner and outer surface for the holster.......many times I'll dye the outer shell one color or shade and the inside another. With these I'll dye prior to gluing anything up. Basically.....I despise water based dye........It just doesn't work well IMO. Mike

Edited September 15, 2010 by katsass

[mattsh]

Nooj

That's really good for your first holster. And the color....it actually is kind of appealing/artistic....there is another member on here that does a rough finish on purpose that looks very similar to what you have done, if I recall correctly his name is Noah. Again, its for IWB so who's gonna see it anyway?

A couple points on the holster design have already been pointed out: stitching closer to the trigger guard; and allow more room at the grip/trigger guard junction so you can get a full grip on your pistol. When it comes time to draw a full grip is going to be very vital and every tenth of a second counts, so if you have to adjust your grip as you draw your weapon it can be valuable wasted time. Just food for thought and something to consider on your next holster design.

Kudos to you on your first holster. Hopefully you've caught the bug.

[NoahL]

Nooj

That's really good for your first holster. And the color....it actually is kind of appealing/artistic....there is another member on here that does a rough finish on purpose that looks very similar to what you have done, if I recall correctly his name is Noah. Again, its for IWB so who's gonna see it anyway?

A couple points on the holster design have already been pointed out: stitching closer to the trigger guard; and allow more room at the grip/trigger guard junction so you can get a full grip on your pistol. When it comes time to draw a full grip is going to be very vital and every tenth of a second counts, so if you have to adjust your grip as you draw your weapon it can be valuable wasted time. Just food for thought and something to consider on your next holster design.

Kudos to you on your first holster. Hopefully you've caught the bug.

Yep, that'd be me--and I have to say that I do rather like the streaky color. That said, if you don't then dip that sucker in black Pro Oil dye, but it's still IWB

[Nooj]

Thanks for the complements and suggestions guys! I've leaned a good bit on this holster, and hopefully will continue to improve. I'll leave this one the way it is- It'll be a reminder to slow down and take my time ;-)

Noah- I'm very fond of your finishing technique, like the sheath in your avatar. I may attempt a similar concept on some future projects. What's the old saying- imitation is the sincerest form of flattery?

Nooj

[Big O]

Very nice!

I see you cut the back far enough to clear the magazine release, which can be important for two reasons. First, to make it less likely that it'll be inadvertently pressed. Second, to make it possible to deliberately press it (which is something I typically do to top off the magazine after chambering the top round - and I usually do that right after I stuff the pistol in the holster. Something about only having two hands.....)