Thread Or Awl Issues (Not Sure Which)

[Big O]

I got a small stitching awl, with a size 1 blade.

Cuts right through even a double layer of 8-9 oz leather. I love that.

BUT.....I've got this thick 4 oz Nyltec waxed nylon thread, and I have to use pliers to get the needles and thread through the holes made by the awl. I mean, I have to push the needle in from one side, and then pull it out from the other. When I'm finished sewing, it looks like there's a puckered area around each hole.

Is this because the awl is too small, or because the thread is too thick, or because I'm pulling the thread too tight, or some combination of those, or something I haven't thought of?

[TwinOaks]

It could be a combination of all three. A single needle should pass through an empty hole easily, all the way to the thread in the eye, then need just a little tug. The second needle will be just a little harder. When back stitching, I sometimes need to assist the last pass with pliers, but that's the 4th pass through the same hole. The puckers sound like you're pulling WAY too hard, or stitching while the leather is too wet.

[Kevin]

Bigger awl.

Kevin

Or smaller needles and thread and stitch length

[katsass]

Bigger awl.

Kevin

Or smaller needles and thread and stitch length

Just a thought, are you stitching after applying your finish? The fact that you use pliers to pull the needle through doesn't matter much to me....I do it with all of my stitching...at least I know that the thread will not loosen and back out. I stitch after dieing but before applying my finish. Mike

[Big O]

Just a thought, are you stitching after applying your finish? The fact that you use pliers to pull the needle through doesn't matter much to me....I do it with all of my stitching...at least I know that the thread will not loosen and back out. I stitch after dieing but before applying my finish. Mike

After.

I'm actually "cheating" - using leather that's already finished. I have some undyed leather on the way, though.

[katsass]

After.

I'm actually "cheating" - using leather that's already finished. I have some undyed leather on the way, though.

I suspect that part of the problem is the finished surface of the leather. Try working with a piece of unfinished scrap and see if you stitching doesn't look better. Mike

[MADMAX22]

The prefinished leather shouldnt cause a issue. I finish most of my leather before stitching. I think the biggest thing to consider is awl size compared to thread and needle size. I am with twinoaks on this one, I only need pliers when I am back stitching. I found that having to use pliers all the time became very time consuming and ended up just not being much fun. It seemed to double the time it would take to stitch say a belt or something which would put you from 2 hours to 4 or so. Another thing with hand stitching is remember to do it the same way for every hole. This will lend to more uniform stitching. It took me a while to get this down but I realized even if I started out with a bad habit or doing it slightly wrong to just keep doing that till it was done and it would still turn out looking pretty good.

[BAD HIDE]

If you're having trouble pulling through every hole, there's something amiss. Either your awl blade is too small or your needles are too big. I generally sew with small needles and two awls, one bigger than the other (not by much, but noticeable, it's really just a brand new blade that hasn't been sharpened down much). All my starts and stops, wherever I'm going to pass 4 threads through it, I'll use the bigger awl and even twist it to make the hole bigger, and then it's still tight but no problem getting the needles to go through with just my fingers. Then switch to the smaller awl and go to town. I probably have to use pliers maybe once every 2-3 hours of sewing, but definitely not every hole. Once you figure out what's causing the extra resistance and can sew without the pliers, your speed, consistency, and your stitches will be a lot better. As far as the puckers, lighten up on pulling your threads - they really don't need to be any tighter than an easy squeeze - and make sure the leather is dry.

Edited October 15, 2010 by BAD HIDE