Shop Press To Clicker Press

[Shorts]

I purchased a 12T press from Northern Tool a little while ago with the intention of using it as a clicker press. Over the last couple months I got my materials and tools together to get the press modified. I initially planned on using 1/2" plates but after lots of discussion I went to 1". The price was not near as bad as I saw quoted online once I stopped by a steel supply house. By changing plate thickness I've now upped the weight of the component by 20lbs. I didn't trust the chincy washers holding the return springs that were spot welded with ~50lbs of suspended free weight, plus the force the jack applies. So that's why I changed that.

The idea

The process

Materials: 4"x1.5" C-channel, (2) 12"x12"x1" steel plate, 3/8" eyebolts, 2"x2" sq tubing

Edged bottom plate

Cut off spring mount washers, install eyebolts

Grind welds

Drill eye bolt holes (hand drilled, yes, crooked. Hoping the lateral/angle force doesn't kill the eye bolt).

Sq.tubing drilled for eye bolts. Plate and tubing prepped

Welded (used stick 6011, too hot and too fast)

Installed eye bolts

C-channel guides cut

...and welded FCAW (both pieces were beveled and prepped after I found my good metal file)

Hung. I'll get the jack back on there today

I wanted to see what the weight would do to the springs and see if anything fell off during the night. So far everything's in tact and the springs haven't extended from the original measurement.

My critiques on the work:

- I plan to prep and paint the pieces.

- I don't like that crooked eye bolt.

- I didn't true one end of the sq tubing so the C-channel piece is kind of crooked

- I wish I stick welded better. May grind that all out and redo it again at a later date

[dirtclod]

Looks like it should work fine. Wonder if you could just weld up the top bolt hole and redrill the hole ? That might work.

[Shorts]

Looks like it should work fine. Wonder if you could just weld up the top bolt hole and redrill the hole ? That might work.

I'm thinking I might have to do that. A failure of the top plate support could cause some equipment damage in the least, and bodily damage at worst.

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Be careful running long beads like that on a part that you want to stay flat. I have warped 2" thick plate just by welding beads on one side. What happens is as the weld bead cools it contracts which puts tension on the metal it is attached to. You can get away with short 1" stringer beads for this application.

Look at the forces, and how they are being applied. If anything, the edges will bend up as all of the force is applied to the center under the jack. If you look at commercial clickers, as well as other presses, you will see gussets used to distribute the force, and maintain rigidity / flatness.

In reality though, even at 12 tons you probably won't have anything to worry about. Like a chain, it will only be as strong as the weakest part.

[Shorts]

Be careful running long beads like that on a part that you want to stay flat. I have warped 2" thick plate just by welding beads on one side. What happens is as the weld bead cools it contracts which puts tension on the metal it is attached to. You can get away with short 1" stringer beads for this application.

Look at the forces, and how they are being applied. If anything, the edges will bend up as all of the force is applied to the center under the jack. If you look at commercial clickers, as well as other presses, you will see gussets used to distribute the force, and maintain rigidity / flatness.

In reality though, even at 12 tons you probably won't have anything to worry about. Like a chain, it will only be as strong as the weakest part.

Yep, this is exactly what happened on the sq. tubing-plate weld. I got a slight bow that I need to work out. You're right I could have run skip welds. I didn't because this was my first time running stick on anything that mattered and I was thinking since I can't glue very consistently or very well I'll just put a lot of glue on it Running too hot didn't help the cause either. I had some 7018 rod (AC machine only) but I couldn't get it dialed right so I stuck with the 6011. I should have clamped that top plate to the bottom plate to help hold her together while the workpiece cooled but I didn't think of it at the time.

The deflection is one reason I went up from 1/2" to 1". I considered 1/2" with gussets but decided it would be less work and welding on top of a steel plate that would bow more easily, especially with my inexperienced welding. The 1" plate, in theory, would be a bit more forgiving of my skill.

Having punched some smaller pieces with the unmodified shop press and 5/8" plate, the 1" is not going to be a concern with a 12T jack.

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Clamping wouldn't have helped much, but peening would have.

Depending on how much warpage you have you may need to have it machined flat. A Blanchard grinder would be the best way, but milling will do to. Check with a high school metal shop, or community college to get it done inexpensively, that is if you don't have the machines, or know someone with them. Work like this is good for bartering.

A regular machine shop should be able to deck it flat pretty quick.

When you run the 6011, are you whipping the rod in and out? With 6011 you get the puddle started then pull the rod back some to let it cool then back in with the rod. Not far enough to break the arc, just enough to let the main part of the puddle cool. Also pay attention to the edges of the puddle, and do not pull back until you see the edges fill in with weld material. Once the metal flows to the edges, then you pull the rod back some , and let it cool.

[Shorts]

Clamping wouldn't have helped much, but peening would have.

Depending on how much warpage you have you may need to have it machined flat. A Blanchard grinder would be the best way, but milling will do to. Check with a high school metal shop, or community college to get it done inexpensively, that is if you don't have the machines, or know someone with them. Work like this is good for bartering.

A regular machine shop should be able to deck it flat pretty quick.

When you run the 6011, are you whipping the rod in and out? With 6011 you get the puddle started then pull the rod back some to let it cool then back in with the rod. Not far enough to break the arc, just enough to let the main part of the puddle cool. Also pay attention to the edges of the puddle, and do not pull back until you see the edges fill in with weld material. Once the metal flows to the edges, then you pull the rod back some , and let it cool.

Thanks for the tip. I'll try that next time I'm running the machine. I did weave a little bit (evidence by the undercutting I did on the sq tube). With the radius of the sq tube I was thinking I needed to get down in there on the plate then try to get the puddle up on the side. But when I did I undercut the sqtube.

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Undercutting comes from too much heat, or too fast. That was my problem when I first started welding, too fast. Once I got the right darkness shade, and learned to watch the actual puddle edges my welds really improved. It just takes some practice. Having an instructor also helps alot. I took night courses at the local community college .

Keep us updated with your progress.

[Shorts]

Undercutting comes from too much heat, or too fast. That was my problem when I first started welding, too fast. Once I got the right darkness shade, and learned to watch the actual puddle edges my welds really improved. It just takes some practice. Having an instructor also helps alot. I took night courses at the local community college .

Keep us updated with your progress.

Will do - thanks!

I'm working on a cart for my little fluxcore machine. My biggest "oh my" moment was looking at the results & fit of my first angle iron coping attempt LOL The second pair of corners went just fine though. Best of all, my base is square!

I've been thinking of taking some local classes. We'll see though, between work and life I'm wondering if it would get too hectic. But it certainly would be nice to have instruction and see what and how things are suppose to be done.

Edited October 18, 2010 by Shorts

[Shorts]

Just updating the thread. The clicker works fine. Been goofing with it today getting the deck height where I like. What I am seeing is the dies don't like to cut leather when placed on the flesh side. I think that's just the nature of the blade and material. The blade needs to go on the grain side of the piece. Wouldn't be an issue except cutting holsters I'll need a front and back die per holster instead of one die.