Olive Oil Vs Neetsfoot Oil

[NVLeatherWorx]

Been using Pure Neetsfoot Oil for over 40 years and never had an issue with it creating discoloration, splotchy patches, or even breaking down the leather or linen thread. I have also used the technique of pre-heating my oil to about 85 degrees before applying and ensuring that it is applied lightly and evenly. I give it a 24 "curing" period and give it another light application and another 24 hours "curing" period. If the item is to be dyed then I will do the oiling after the dye has been applied and it is has "cured" for 24 hours.

Now, it is a fact that if you over oil anything that it will cause problems with the leather. You will start off with a finished product that is excessively stretchy/gummy, you will have major dye/stain color rub-off, any top coatings of acrylic, resolene, other conditioners will not have an effect (because they can't penetrate the fibers), and it will start to become rancid after awhile. And this applies to any of the oils that are intended to be used on leather, including Olive Oil. However, if applied properly you will find that your finished projects will have a much longer lifespan.

Regarding the use of the "adulterated" products; wouldn't the addition of any flammable petroleum based product (i.e. kerosene) turn a natural product into that very "adulterated" product? And of major consideration, is it wise to treat leather with a flammable product? Again, everyone will have their own way to doing their reconditioning but for those of us who have spent decades learning our trade, the materials used in our trade, and the proper methods of using these materials, the idea of trying to find the "next best shortcut" or "more economical method" is not something that we venture into unless it is truly beneficial to the improvement of the final product. I have never fallen into the shortcut approach when it comes to the finished works and that is just my way of doing things.

As with every other piece of information taken from the comments of others, find what works for you and if that is the direction that you want to go then go with it. But, it is always important to heed that critical advice or information that could be the difference between successful end products and inevitable failure of a product.

Oltoot has it right, at least as we have been taught over the years, NATURAL IS BETTER!

[RoosterShooter]

One of the reasons I want to get away from Neetsfoot oil COMPOUND is because it does contain petroleum distillates. If I'm working with it in my enclosed shop, in the winter, with a heater going I tend to get a little loopy after using it for several hours. I haven't been 100% happy with Neetsfoot Oil Compound as my product of choice. I guess that's a good sign in that I want to continualy evolve my products into something better.

With that being said, the problem I am having is that I am wanting the final finish to be similar to what you see when you look at a professional english style saddle. I want the leather to 'Pop', and have a nice natural sheen to it, and retain that 'Leather' smell. I have found that with too much neetsfoot oil compound I tend to get the opposite. A dull, dark, chemical smelling leather that is loose and oily feeling. Even though I apply it sparingly, it tends to leave me unimpressed.

I'm wondering if I shouldn't move to more traditional saddle style finishing materials. I've been using Angelus Neetsfoot Oil Compound and Lustre Cream, in that order, since mid-2012. I think I'm ready to step up in my game, and look for something better.

Any advice?

[NVLeatherWorx]

That is why we use PURE Neetsfoot Oil, it is not a compound. You will find that a skilled craftsman stays away from anything that is a compound, a blend, or a synthetic. We use the real stuff and have done so for years.

[RoosterShooter]

What kind of finish do you use to give it a satin sheen,

[NVLeatherWorx]

I apply a 50/50 blend of water and Acrylic Resolene for most of the stuff that I make. There are some that get a double application of Clear-Lac leather lacquer but you have to be careful with that one as you can overdo it real easy. The 50/50 blend is the most popular among most of the craftsmen that I know and you will find that it is discussed almost daily within these forums. The biggest trick to use when applying any acrylic finish is to ensure that your applicator (it is recommended that you use a sponge) is damp before you start applying your acrylic. That is given as a standard instruction on just about ever brand that I have seen over the years yet is the most common to be overlooked by the end user. I rarely use Leather Balm or Tan-Kote but there are times when the project calls for it so it is always on-hand.

[RoosterShooter]

I've heard a lot of Amish people locally using Obenauf's LP. Would that be an option as long as I apply it sparingly? I don't want a limp leather, but one that retains it's stiffness.

[NVLeatherWorx]

If you are making products that are exposed to extreme (and continuous) weather conditions then that would be an okay item. However, if you are making common use/personal accessory items then you don't really need to go to that extreme; Pure Neetsfoot Oil will do the trick of getting the conditioning where it needs to be and if applied properly does not cause the leather to go limp. You typically only find that issue when it has been oiled excessively or it was already a more flexible material.

[RoosterShooter]

I'm making rugged outdoor use products that ranchers and woodsmen use. I'm thinking I might try the Obenauf's.

[NVLeatherWorx]

Give it a try and see how it works for you. If it is a solid product I may look at using it for my pet products. Have a Happy New Year and a prosperous 2015.

[unicornleather]

Been using Pure Neetsfoot Oil for over 40 years and never had an issue with it creating discoloration, splotchy patches, or even breaking down the leather or linen thread. I have also used the technique of pre-heating my oil to about 85 degrees before applying and ensuring that it is applied lightly and evenly. I give it a 24 "curing" period and give it another light application and another 24 hours "curing" period. If the item is to be dyed then I will do the oiling after the dye has been applied and it is has "cured" for 24 hours.

Now, it is a fact that if you over oil anything that it will cause problems with the leather. You will start off with a finished product that is excessively stretchy/gummy, you will have major dye/stain color rub-off, any top coatings of acrylic, resolene, other conditioners will not have an effect (because they can't penetrate the fibers), and it will start to become rancid after awhile. And this applies to any of the oils that are intended to be used on leather, including Olive Oil. However, if applied properly you will find that your finished projects will have a much longer lifespan.

Regarding the use of the "adulterated" products; wouldn't the addition of any flammable petroleum based product (i.e. kerosene) turn a natural product into that very "adulterated" product? And of major consideration, is it wise to treat leather with a flammable product? Again, everyone will have their own way to doing their reconditioning but for those of us who have spent decades learning our trade, the materials used in our trade, and the proper methods of using these materials, the idea of trying to find the "next best shortcut" or "more economical method" is not something that we venture into unless it is truly beneficial to the improvement of the final product. I have never fallen into the shortcut approach when it comes to the finished works and that is just my way of doing things.

As with every other piece of information taken from the comments of others, find what works for you and if that is the direction that you want to go then go with it. But, it is always important to heed that critical advice or information that could be the difference between successful end products and inevitable failure of a product.

Oltoot has it right, at least as we have been taught over the years, NATURAL IS BETTER!

Some good points there and you hit the nail right on the head about over oiling and also using neatsfoot for over 40 years. It's ok on older hides, newer modern hides have changed in the way they are produced so much, all in the name of progress of course, that neatsfoot is simply not good for modern hides. Glycerine saddle soap used to be good on old hides years ago too but now on modern hides the Ph is wrong. Over here in the UK it is anyway.

I have seen some awful treatment of leather on another forum recently, one guy dunking his harness in 5 gallons of oil for 48 hours then drying it off in front of his furnace as well as someone else burying their new saddle in the yard in sand for a few days to "soften" it!

I gave up with that one!

Lastly, one of the more modern used commercial leather conditioners which everyone rates and raves about over here has this as it's ingredients:

DESTILLATES (PETROLEUM) HYDROTREATED LIGHT PARAFFINIC

PETROLATUM

SOLVENT-REFINED LIGHT AND HEAVY PARAFFINICS

PARAFFIN

HYDROGENATED MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX

CERA MICROCRISTALLINA

LANOLIN

PERSEA GRATISSIMA (AVOCADO) OIL

CERA ALBA

PARFUM

CI 12700

The last one CE 12700 is a yellow dye they use because they don't have any beeswax in it so have to fake the colour. This is simply for OUR benefit and not the leather it is applied to, also I looked into the data that comes with this product and it states it's code 4 which is a "to be rinsed off product use only"

So, one has to beg to ask, what the hell are they doing putting this in leather conditioner that is going to come in to contact with your hands, your leather and in saddlery your horse?

WHAT is in it to make it a "rinse off product use " only?

I have heard of 2 horses recently that have had allergic reactions to this product.

Perfume is not needed either, it's there to disguise the smell of the paraffin etc!

WHY can't people just use natural products, I make my own leather conditioner, it's simple, natural, easy to make and half the cost of the rubbish that's out there like the one above.

Edited January 18, 2015 by unicornleather