Another Ruger Holster!

[ShortBBL]

I like the design mods I did on this one vs the last one. I am still going to make some changes. Before too long, I hope you'll see a BIG change!

My edges are coming along nicely... now after a few more pattern changes, I REALLY need to get some help on my finishes.

I have tried neatsfoot oil and then WYOSHEEN but I am having a heck of a time getting a smooth, streak free finish! Tried wool, tried wool with a GI haircut, tried wool daubers..... ugh.... applying this WYOSHEEN is just a PITA!

What do you guys use to get a nice finish?

[katsass]

I like the design mods I did on this one vs the last one. I am still going to make some changes. Before too long, I hope you'll see a BIG change!

My edges are coming along nicely... now after a few more pattern changes, I REALLY need to get some help on my finishes.

I have tried neatsfoot oil and then WYOSHEEN but I am having a heck of a time getting a smooth, streak free finish! Tried wool, tried wool with a GI haircut, tried wool daubers..... ugh.... applying this WYOSHEEN is just a PITA!

What do you guys use to get a nice finish?

I usually use Fiebing's Leather Sheen.....mist it on with an airbrush. A couple of shots, let it dry thoroughly then a bit of neutral shoe polish rubbed in with my fingers and buffed with an old, soft washcloth. Mike

[Haystacker]

Nice looking holster.

Jeff

[TwinOaks]

Question: Are you applying to the leather and then trying to spread it, or applying to the pad and rubbing it on? I had all kinds of trouble trying to spray on neat-lac and then rub in, then I started spraying in a small steel cup or spraying directly on a rag then applying to the leather. Works much better if it's already on your rag/pad because you're rubbing it ON instead of AROUND.

[ShortBBL]

Thanks guys for the comments.

TwinOaks: I have tried spraying it on and not rubbing at all, just letting it dry. That method actually works pretty good BUT..... once I am out of the stuff... I'm out and there is no more, UNLESS I can maybe try airbrushing WYOSHEEN? WYO is laquer based I think.... but maybe I'm wrong and it's water based. I need to find that out!

When I try to apply it with wool or wool daubers or foam pad.... I get the applicator wet with the stuff and rub it on the leather.... it looks ok when real wet, but once dry it has streaks.

Getting a real good finish is the hardest step for me so far!

I really like to dip my project in neatsfoot oil and let it drip dry and once dry, then try the wyo.... it's the way Bianchi shows in his DVD's... and it looks great for him!

I also tried putting leather balm with atom wax on the dried oiled leather but that didn't go too well either.

Question: Are you applying to the leather and then trying to spread it, or applying to the pad and rubbing it on? I had all kinds of trouble trying to spray on neat-lac and then rub in, then I started spraying in a small steel cup or spraying directly on a rag then applying to the leather. Works much better if it's already on your rag/pad because you're rubbing it ON instead of AROUND.

[Lobo]

It might be possible that you are rushing the finishing process, too soon after applying the neatsfoot oil. I suggest allowing the neatsfoot oil to completely "settle in" to the leather prior to applying your finish. About 24 hours seems to work well.

Neatsfoot oil does not dry, it is absorbed into the leather fibers and will migrate throughout until a balance is reached (what I refered to as "settle in" above). If there is a significant residue on the exterior surface when you start applying your finish coat that could be the result of the streaking you have described.

[katsass]

I like the design mods I did on this one vs the last one. I am still going to make some changes. Before too long, I hope you'll see a BIG change!

My edges are coming along nicely... now after a few more pattern changes, I REALLY need to get some help on my finishes.

I have tried neatsfoot oil and then WYOSHEEN but I am having a heck of a time getting a smooth, streak free finish! Tried wool, tried wool with a GI haircut, tried wool daubers..... ugh.... applying this WYOSHEEN is just a PITA!

What do you guys use to get a nice finish?

ShortBBL, It looks to me that you may be trying to put too much on, AND, too quickly, and as Lobo says, you may not be allowing the neatsfoot to settle in for long enough. I personally do not care to apply a finish with wool, sponge, or cloth....it's too easy to get too much on. I shoot my finishes on with the airbrush...and just 'mist' it on as you would do with lacquer on a fine cabinet. I'm not familiar with WYO SHEEN, but all of the 'sheen' products that I know of are acrylic based products........they will penetrate the leather well. When I shoot any 'Sheen' product, if I can see ANY of the milky white on my leather.......I'm too close and getting too much on. I don't know exactly what appearance you prefer, but to me, too much shine detracts from the appearance of the leather. Just a couple of shots....with drying time between ..... and I get a nice satin finish. I follow with just a little neutral wax.....applied with my fingers and then buffed. It looks more natural to me. JMHO. Here is a holster for a Charter Arms Bulldog that I did about a year ago...and a sheath for a Schrade skinner that I did the same way about 30 years ago. It works for me. Mike

Edited November 21, 2010 by katsass

[ShortBBL]

Thanks again guys! Maybe I am rushing it a bit. I may also have to think about getting an airbrush setup, although I haven't a clue on what/where to get it.

Does anyone here dip-oil there stuff? In the Bianchi DVD's, that how he does it. He uses undyed leather and dips them in neatsfoot oil for a short time... they end up with a pretty nice honey or saddle tan finish. It sounds like he has an expensive drying setup, but he didn't show that part. Laying it out to dry for 24-48 hours might be the ticket if one has no drying system.

With NeatLac in the spray cans, my finishes turn out fine (as long as I do it in two or three light passes) so maybe using the daubers, wool scrapes etc, is putting too much on at a time.

I really need to get this worked out. My leather work is getting to the point where I am happy with it, except for the finish.

Thanks for all the ideas!

[TwinOaks]

When you run out of Neat-lac, check out Deft spray lacquer from Lowes/HomeDepot. I read about it in a post (somewhere on here) and figured....why not? The stuff smells and acts a lot like neatlac....maybe a little faster drying.

[katsass]

ShortBBL:Iinexpensive, (relatively..at around $70) is this rig from Harbor Freight. That's for the little compressor and a set of their 'quick change' airbrush. A little practice and you will do well with it, until you want a more adjustable brush. Mike

[ShortBBL]

ShortBBL:Iinexpensive, (relatively..at around $70) is this rig from Harbor Freight. That's for the little compressor and a set of their 'quick change' airbrush. A little practice and you will do well with it, until you want a more adjustable brush. Mike

Thanks!! I might give one a try!

[sniper]

Yo, Kat: WHERE did you find trhe Sharpfinger?? Been looking for one for YEARS!

BTW;Nice holster and sheath!

[katsass]

Yo, Kat: WHERE did you find trhe Sharpfinger?? Been looking for one for YEARS!

BTW;Nice holster and sheath!

sniper, Thanks for the kind words re; the leather work. Found that tittle skinner more than 30 years ago and it has been with me ever since.......a friend found his about about 15 years ago a Wally World. I made him a similar sheath back then. It's a great little skinner. Mike

[Lobo]

Thanks again guys! Maybe I am rushing it a bit. I may also have to think about getting an airbrush setup, although I haven't a clue on what/where to get it.

Does anyone here dip-oil there stuff? In the Bianchi DVD's, that how he does it. He uses undyed leather and dips them in neatsfoot oil for a short time... they end up with a pretty nice honey or saddle tan finish. It sounds like he has an expensive drying setup, but he didn't show that part. Laying it out to dry for 24-48 hours might be the ticket if one has no drying system.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I usually use a paint brush to apply neatsfoot oil only to the exterior (hair side) surfaces only. Applying to the flesh side results in very rapid absorption so it is more difficult to control the amount applied and absorbed.

Make no mistake about this point, neatsfoot oil never dries. The oil is fully absorbed into the leather fibers and remains there. The more oil that is applied, the more oil will be absorbed until the leather becomes saturated. Long before the leather becomes saturated it will be limp and useless for our purposes.

Vegetable tanned leather has been stripped of most of the hide's natural moisture content as part of the tanning process. Wet-forming and drying will further deplete natural moisture content, and molded leather can be very rigid which is good for our purposes, but also raises the potential for cracking when flexed. It is for this reason that I advocate for the use of a modest application of neatsfoot oil, to replenish the moisture content sufficiently that the normal flexing of a holster in use will not cause cracking. There are others, including many with much experience, who disagree with me on this and argue against any use of neatsfoot oil. This reflects a truly honest disagreement for which there is no ready solution. I will continue with time-proven methods that have worked well for me. Others will pursue other methods that appear to be working well for them.

You have observed that John Bianchi's natural oiled finish results in a very attractive honey-tone or saddle-tone. This is true, and I have always favored the classic oiled tan finish. The problem to overcome using this method is that of duplicating the final finish coloration from one piece to the next. Matching sets are a real challenge, as each hide will react somewhat differently to the oiling and display different tones. Also, natural oiled tan leather will darken with age and exposure to sunlight with, again, each piece reacting differently.

So, utilizing neatsfoot oil to obtain a specific finish color can be a very difficult and frustrating exercise. The first lesson to learn, and to always keep in mind, is that neatsfoot oil does not dry, no matter how long you wait. Applying more oil will result in a darker coloration, but that will also result in ever-increasing flexibility. And there is no practical method of reducing the oil content once it has been applied and absorbed.

Neatsfoot oil is an interesting product, rendered from the feet and lower legs of cattle. The oil itself is a natural secretion that protects the animals' lower legs from freezing when the animal is exposed to low temperatures during life. Neatsfoot oil can be purchased in whole form, or as "neatsfoot oil compound" which includes other oils such as mineral oil in the mixture (reducing cost).

When neatsfoot oil is fully understood and used properly it is a valuable addition to the leather shop. When used indiscriminately neatsfoot oil can ruin a lot of otherwise good work.

Best regards.

Edited November 23, 2010 by Lobo

[ShortBBL]

Just when i thought I had it figured out...... Ouch.

This finishing process of the leather work can get real conusing/frustrating! Man... I really need to figure out how/what to do about it. I need to order a pile of leather, but I don't know what to get. Maybe just more W&C Skirting in Chestnut and Black I guess.

Bianchi said in his DVD's that a gun belt will take about a pint of oil!! Yikes.... it sure looked nice when done, but.

One problem I have had with Sides is that they are way too "soft" feeling about half way down.... seems like plenty of non-useable leather to me.... maybe for other type projects, but I like my holsters much more firm.

I need help getting this all figured out.

[katsass]

Just when i thought I had it figured out...... Ouch.

This finishing process of the leather work can get real conusing/frustrating! Man... I really need to figure out how/what to do about it. I need to order a pile of leather, but I don't know what to get. Maybe just more W&C Skirting in Chestnut and Black I guess.

Bianchi said in his DVD's that a gun belt will take about a pint of oil!! Yikes.... it sure looked nice when done, but.

One problem I have had with Sides is that they are way too "soft" feeling about half way down.... seems like plenty of non-useable leather to me.... maybe for other type projects, but I like my holsters much more firm.

I need help getting this all figured out.

ShortBBL: Take a look at the pic of the airbrush rig. That little bottle in front is half full of neatsfoot oil. I use the airbrush to shoot neatsfoot after wet molding. Lobo's explanation is better than I can put things into words, so all I can add to his statement is, "I couldn't have said it better myself". Mike

Edited November 24, 2010 by katsass