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Posted

How much do you guys dilute your dyes and what's the purpose? I've always used them full strength.

Thanks,

Ann

Denatured alcohol or dye thinner. Is what i have used and works fine. I believe denatured alcohol is what most people use though(also cheaper).

  • Contributing Member
Posted

How much do you guys dilute your dyes and what's the purpose? I've always used them full strength.

Thanks,

Ann

I thin almost everything... only dyes used full strength are black and chocolate. These colors I want to leave rich - usually solid colors.

Some of the colors are about 4:1 (solvent to dye), others much more. I buy "navy" and thin it about 30:1 to simulate skies, water, and denim clothing. Put the navy on full strength - even with a "dry" brush - and it's nearly black.

And it's easier to blend. The Fiebing's dye is basically little flakes blended in a solution. Thin it out (more solution) and you can cover more area quickly and I think it's easier to keep it "even".

One more (big) reason for reducer is I can get different shades of one color without changing the color (chocolate and dark brown, even full strength, are not the same shade). Photo below is dark brown dye (only). Background is about 1:1, design is about 10:1. Same dye bottle, though....

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

  • Members
Posted

Thanks everyone for the responses. I appreciate you taking the time.

JLSLeather - beautiful work!

From a practical standpoint - do you keep lots of little bottles around with various dilutions? I tend to do most dying with a wool scrap and tip the bottle to the scrap, full strength. I'm wondering the best way to get started trying some dilutions without wasting dye and without being overrun by little bottles or jars..... Do you use a dropper to measure?

My latest discovery is some old fiebings leather *stain* that I found in the back of a cabinet. Imparts a beautiful translucent color that is great for saddle touch ups.

Anyone know how stain differs from dye?

Ann

I thin almost everything... only dyes used full strength are black and chocolate. These colors I want to leave rich - usually solid colors.

Some of the colors are about 4:1 (solvent to dye), others much more. I buy "navy" and thin it about 30:1 to simulate skies, water, and denim clothing. Put the navy on full strength - even with a "dry" brush - and it's nearly black.

And it's easier to blend. The Fiebing's dye is basically little flakes blended in a solution. Thin it out (more solution) and you can cover more area quickly and I think it's easier to keep it "even".

One more (big) reason for reducer is I can get different shades of one color without changing the color (chocolate and dark brown, even full strength, are not the same shade). Photo below is dark brown dye (only). Background is about 1:1, design is about 10:1. Same dye bottle, though....

  • Members
Posted

Thomas,

I used to have the same problem as you described. Here is what works for me: I use a small sponge. First, I get it wet then wring as much water out of it as I can. Then I apply Fiebings dye to the sponge (either the oil dye or the regular stuff) and apply it to the leather in a circular motion. I'll usually end up giving it at least two coats. If I have done any tooling on the holster, I'll use the dauber and run it quickly over the tooling, then use the sponge to even it out (the sponge is not good for getting down into the tooling). My results have improved drastically and sponges are pretty cheap!

Hope this helps.

Kevin

  • Contributing Member
Posted

Too kind, Ann, but thanks :) Personally, I prefer natural leather with a hints of color. Hate to see perfectly good cow all painted up. But, my wife says - about 2 or 3 times a week - kaint just make what I like. So, the dark leather was her idea, actually.

I have 16 bottles (1 0z) that I have stuff pre-mixed in, and 4 more (same size) that I have around for mixing the stuff I'm just gonna use once (I don't do lots of purple, but even I liked those purple orchids that lady wanted). This is why I say "about" 4:1 or "about" 30:1 ... I know some of the reducer is evaporating when the bottle is open.

Bottles are about 1 3/8" diameter, I git the dye with droppers. They're about $2 / 5 pack at hobby lobby, and I keep them separated - one for yellows, one for reds .... etc. All of it sits in a small drawer in my bench and slides shut out of the way when I'm tooling.

Just for information, the bottles I use are 1 oz glass bottles by Paasche, who also makes the airbrushes I use. Hobby lobby has those, too, or you can get them on Ebay for about $1 apiece. Glass bottles will clean out very well if you ever decide to clean 'em, and you can use them with the airbrush if you care to (I don't - too much weight for me when I'm trying to be able to move around). The "thingy" posted here is all done with shades of those 16 colors, though some of the shades are more than one color painted over the top of another. I post it here so you can see what the 30:1 blue looks like (sky, water, fisherman's jeans, and lightly on the distant mountains).

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

  • Members
Posted (edited)

In response to a PM, (sorry, haven't figured that out yet). Oxalic Acid, also known as wood bleach, can be bought at Ace Hardware, Springfield Leather and I believe S-L Leather. Don't soak the leather, just wipe it down with a rag or sponge dampened with the Oxalic Acid. This will remove finger oils, black spots left by steel tools touching damp leather and other assorted oils and debris gathered by the leather.

As to removing Epoxy glue, I wouldn't know. I don't use epoxy for anything. My work is held together with Barge's, Tandy's Tanners Bond, Masters or rubber cement. All of these glues can be removed from the leather with the all purpose eraser, order number 153-1, from Springfield. I have heard crape sole material and art gum erasers work too.

Edited by JJLeatherworks
  • Members
Posted

Check Harbor Freight Tools. they have inexpensive airbrushes and compressors that work well... at least the compressor does.

After you master the airbrush, you might want to buy a more expensive one.

Where is a good place to get a hobby sprayer??

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