SKnowles Report post Posted May 6, 2008 Hi Folks, I just wanted to Introduce myself. In my somewhat sparse spare time I mainly Like to Make Damascus Steel for Knifemaking, But I do make an occasional knife too,So I wanted to start making sheaths to go with them. (Havent Made one yet) I have become side tracked w/ leather carving. I just found the Local Tandy store and bought some tools and decided to have a go at it. This is my second Piece. I'm trying to get the hang of the swivel knife, But my main problems are the Beveler and altough not used in this the Backgrounder. (I cant keep them moving steadily)Tell me what you think Please. Also Does anyone know of any Good Sheath making tutorials? I'm Looking foward to chatting w/ you all here and hpoefully learn something. Shawn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Regis Report post Posted May 6, 2008 Shawn, Welcome to our group of leatherworkers. You're off to a good start. Moving that beveler along to begin with takes some concentration and practice, practice. I have particular difficulty fading out the backgrounding. Again, glad to have you join us. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SKnowles Report post Posted May 8, 2008 Thank you for the welcome Regis. Talk at ya later. Shawn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted May 9, 2008 Welcome to the forum addiction! Marlon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grunt Report post Posted May 9, 2008 Welcome to the forum. There are a lot of friendly folks here and lots to learn. Looks like you are off to a great start! Nick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
anne newkold Report post Posted May 9, 2008 Welcome to the forum addiction!Marlon You worded that exactly right! Anne Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillB Report post Posted May 13, 2008 Shawn - Welcome to the forum. I used to make knife sheaths, mostly from scratch, e.g. made my own patterns. I usually start with a trace of the blade by laying the knife on the edge of the table so the blade lies flat on the paper. Once I have a trace of the blade, I added enough around that to allow for the lacing or stitching depending on your tastes. I then use more paper to build the Belt Loop section to determine how I want the knife to hang. Once I have a paper pattern the way I want it, then it is a matter of tracing on leather, cutting, tooling, staining, lacing/stitching, final preservative and then the final test of slipping the knife in. It may sound complicated, but it really isn't and from what I saw in your sample, you should take a deep breath and jump in. That is how most of us started. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SKnowles Report post Posted May 13, 2008 Thank for the welcomes! Bill, When making "pouch" sheathes, What is the norm for weight? 8-9 oz? I have read the the "Stacked" or "sandwich"( I dont know the proper term) type are heavier like 10-11 oz. Shawn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillB Report post Posted May 13, 2008 Shawn, In the 1950 and 60s I went to a boys camp on Rainy Lake on the Minnesota/Canadian border. Canoe trips went all through canada and lengths up to 21 days. Most sheath knifes were in 5-6 ounces leather. Even the sheaths for axes were in the 5-6 ounce range. These sheaths were light in weight but provided the necessary protection of the blade and the wearer. These were typically 6 to 12 inch blades. I just checked my 10 year old Buck Knife and it's pouch is out of the same weight leather. At the beginning of each camping season we would apply neatsfoot oil. The sheaths I made and used are simple two piece. One piece for the back and belt loop, the second is the front. I recently made a sheath out of buckskin and made an insert out of 3-4 ounce leather so that the buckskin did not get cut. This was, however, for a friends Dance Regalia and was more show than function, e.g. 12 inch fringe. The important thing is to have leather that is flexible enough to allow the blade to slip easily in/out yet be sewn/laced tight enough at the edges so that the cutting edge does not get to the thread/lacing. On some very thick spine blade, a space may be necessary to allow the blade to move in and out, but I have never used a space on the cutting edge side. I hope this helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SKnowles Report post Posted May 14, 2008 Thanks Bill, Sure it helps. Just goes to show a, ask 3 different people get three different opinions. All are good, You just sort it all out and use it to fit your own application. Thanks Again, Shawn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stan Report post Posted May 22, 2008 Try Wild Rose Trading Company. They have a good, free on-line sheath making tutorial. It also covers handsewing as well. Remember to add a narrow layer of leather between the top and bottom layers of the sheath to protect the threads from being cut. It also protects the sharp blade from any rivets you might add. Good Luck, Stan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ladybug Report post Posted May 23, 2008 Shawn check out this website www.knifenetwork.com and go to the sheath forum. You will find many tutorials there as well as a pic section. All the people there are very helpful with info on sheathmaking. Ladybug Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildbegger Report post Posted May 24, 2008 When your beveling looks choppy, use a modeling tool or a smooth beveler and rub along the cut edge to smooth it out. Try to use the same amount of pressure while stamping with the beveler to keep them the same depth as the cut. A ball type modeler can be used over the cuts to cover up little mistakes from the swivel knife. Hope this helps... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
