Members busted Posted December 24, 2010 Members Report Posted December 24, 2010 It sure is nice to talk to people who are interested in the same things I am ! OK, I shortened the belt some more and someone told me to rub it with bees wax. So I did that and it seems like it's not slipping any more. A package of needles came with the machine, it says Schmetz 331 LR. (I have no idea what that means) There are a few 200 and a few 230. No, I do not have the wax pot on my #1 but the #3 does, only I don't use any lubricant in it. Maybe I should though because Yes I do use nylon thread in all my machines. I thought everyone did these days ! What's wrong with nylon ? Also I have a question on the presser foot of my #1. My #3 has points on the bottom of the foot that match up with the stitch length you want. Should my #1 have the points on the bottom of the foot also because it doesn't. It is smooth ! I sure appreciate everyones input on my old Landis. Keep it coming, I'm learning alot!!! Thanks---------------Bill Try not to crash the Schmetz needles They are no longer made. The 200 & 230 are the needles you need to do most of your sewing with. Schmetz stopped making the 331lr last year they were the only manufacturing company that made the needle for the Landis #1. Do you have any of the needle bushings for the needle guide? The 280 and 250 needle are getting hard to find too. The 300 needle was the largest it used a 7 cord for harness. You don't need the wax pot It was used to make harness when the machine was new. The thread looper is at the base of the needle inside the shuttle trough in front of the needle. The thread was routed through a looping and wax device and then put in the leather from the bottom of the feed dogs. Probably you don't have the burner that is required to keep the wax pot hot don't worry about it Nylon thread will not work on this machine it will bind and wad up in a mess of tight little loops under the material and behind the bobbin and shuttle. Actually nylon thread is crap it stretches to much. They are called pricker feet and they are called this for a reason. On the original Landis foot there are 4 small points on the bottom of the foot. If they are not there someone sanded or filed them off or wore them out you need to invest in some that are not worn out.. The stitch length is controlled by the length of the pricker foot. there are 7 or 8 sizes of the pricker foot. When you change the stitch length you need those pricker points on the bottom of it. that is how you set the stitch length with the new pricker foot. Good luck to ya' getting this fine machine up an running. Quote
Members amuckart Posted December 24, 2010 Members Report Posted December 24, 2010 It sure is nice to talk to people who are interested in the same things I am ! OK, I shortened the belt some more and someone told me to rub it with bees wax. So I did that and it seems like it's not slipping any more. A package of needles came with the machine, it says Schmetz 331 LR. (I have no idea what that means) There are a few 200 and a few 230. No, I do not have the wax pot on my #1 but the #3 does, only I don't use any lubricant in it. Maybe I should though because Yes I do use nylon thread in all my machines. I thought everyone did these days ! What's wrong with nylon ? Also I have a question on the presser foot of my #1. My #3 has points on the bottom of the foot that match up with the stitch length you want. Should my #1 have the points on the bottom of the foot also because it doesn't. It is smooth ! I sure appreciate everyones input on my old Landis. Keep it coming, I'm learning alot!!! Thanks---------------Bill If it uses 331LR needles, then buy up what you can when you find 'em. The 230s are made intermittently but none of the other sizes are any more and they're way expensive. I wouldn't run Nylon through this. Bonded poly would probably work since it doesn't stretch, but synthetic threads will tend to wear the thread path much faster than linen will. Some people just dunk the whole spool in silicone lube when they're running with synthetic thread. I fill the wax pot with neatsfoot oil when I'm running linen thread, but I haven't done much with this size of machine yet. Sellari's liquid wax is the other option. The pricker feet act like an overstitch wheel, but on the #6 at least you could also get flat feet. I have a set of pricker feet for my A1, but I really want a set of pricker feet for my #6es. Quote -- Al. Medieval Stuff: http://wherearetheelves.net Non-Medieval, including my machines: http://alasdair.muckart.net
Members lazyd Posted December 27, 2010 Author Members Report Posted December 27, 2010 Again, Thanks for all the information guys. Now , does anyone have or know where I can get pricker feet for my Landis #1 ? Something suitable for harness work ? I am useing a #7 in my Landis #3 right now. Does that seem about right ? Thanks-------------------Bill Quote
Members ddushane Posted July 28, 2013 Members Report Posted July 28, 2013 Try not to crash the Schmetz needles They are no longer made. The 200 & 230 are the needles you need to do most of your sewing with. Schmetz stopped making the 331lr last year they were the only manufacturing company that made the needle for the Landis #1. Do you have any of the needle bushings for the needle guide? The 280 and 250 needle are getting hard to find too. The 300 needle was the largest it used a 7 cord for harness. You don't need the wax pot It was used to make harness when the machine was new. The thread looper is at the base of the needle inside the shuttle trough in front of the needle. The thread was routed through a looping and wax device and then put in the leather from the bottom of the feed dogs. Probably you don't have the burner that is required to keep the wax pot hot don't worry about it Nylon thread will not work on this machine it will bind and wad up in a mess of tight little loops under the material and behind the bobbin and shuttle. Actually nylon thread is crap it stretches to much. They are called pricker feet and they are called this for a reason. On the original Landis foot there are 4 small points on the bottom of the foot. If they are not there someone sanded or filed them off or wore them out you need to invest in some that are not worn out.. The stitch length is controlled by the length of the pricker foot. there are 7 or 8 sizes of the pricker foot. When you change the stitch length you need those pricker points on the bottom of it. that is how you set the stitch length with the new pricker foot. Good luck to ya' getting this fine machine up an running. This says the stitch length is controlled by the length of the pricker foot, Is changing the foot all you have to do to get the different stitch length or do you have to adjust something else as well? Thanks for any help. Dwayne Quote
Members pcox Posted July 28, 2013 Members Report Posted July 28, 2013 (edited) There is a knob on the lower front of tne machine that you adjust to match the stitch length to the foot you chose. the knob has a notched wheel on the back of the machine that keeps the adjutment from changing on ot own. You need topry the lever away from the wheel as you trun the knob so you don't strip the notchs off the wheel. I have been useing nylon thread on mine for 20 years and I get along fine with it. Everything from 138 to 415. If you use linen thread you really need the boiler to heat the wax and the bobbin winder that runs the thread thru the melted wax as you wind the bobbin. The boiler will keep the schuttle race almost too hot to touch when you are using the machine and that keeps the bobbin wax soft. The needle tip dips the upper thread in the wax as you sew. the bottom of the feed dog lever pushes a plunger that pumps the hot wax into a well that suppies the needle. this means you will need to light the boiler and let the machine come up to temp. before you can sew. This sounds like a lot of trouble but linen and hot wax will make the best machine stitch you have ever seen Edited July 28, 2013 by pcox Quote
Members ddushane Posted July 28, 2013 Members Report Posted July 28, 2013 I'm not at home right now, is it numbered some way so you know which setting to choose for each of the feet, I have several of the feet. Thank you for your reply. Quote
Members pcox Posted July 28, 2013 Members Report Posted July 28, 2013 (edited) No markings at all. put some leather in the machine with no thread & sew a few stitches remove and see if the holes and the pricker marks match then adjust till they do. It can be a little hard to tell so I push a hand stitch needle thru the holes from the back side to make the needle holes show clearly. I sew most of the time at 6 per inch. but I have sewen some lighter leather at 12 per inch with 138 thread. Turning the knob to the right shortens the stitch. counterclockwise makes it longer Edited July 28, 2013 by pcox Quote
Members ddushane Posted July 28, 2013 Members Report Posted July 28, 2013 I appriciate the help, I've been sewing with a little bit with it, I ordered some needles for the other day, Got some 200's & 280's in the 230's are back ordered. I sewed a some pieces of leather together the other day that ended up a tad over 3/4" after sewing, but I ended up breaking the needle, I was using # 200 needle & 277 thread. I think with the larger needles I could do this fine. I'm a knife maker & will be stitching up sheaths with it. I love old machines, I've got a 1911 25 lb. Little Giant trip hammer that has been completely rebuilt by the owners of Little Giant. Hoping to forge some damascus with it. Thanks again for your time. Dwayne Quote
Members pcox Posted July 28, 2013 Members Report Posted July 28, 2013 (edited) A 200 needle is to skinny for 3/4 it will flex and hit the needle plate breaking itself. I use 250s with 346 or 415 thread for everything over 5/8. The new needles we can buy now don't have a groove that is long enough for 3/4 if the needle bushing is the right size for the needle the treade will cut between the top of the groove and the bushing. I also am a blacksmith and I rebuild power hammers I have about 12 in stock now about 1/2 of them LGs Sid has sold little giant to his long time machinist Roger I live 2 hours from Neb. city. Maybe we will meet sometime at a blacksmith conf. I will demoing a 25# LG at the UMBA conference it Wisconsin Aug.9-10th Edited July 28, 2013 by pcox Quote
Members ddushane Posted July 29, 2013 Members Report Posted July 29, 2013 Sid is the one that rebuilt my 25#, & I've got a 50 lb that I have loaned out for a while, I haven't learned enough about Them to mess with it much, I'm in the process of getting my shop together, I moved from a 20X20 to a 32X90 building with an up stairs. So I've got a lot more room. I've been engraving for the past 5 yrs or so and it keeps me busy as well, I want to finish my shop and build knives with my own damascus, engrave them & do my own leather work on them. It all takes time, I got home from work and looked at that know you mentioned, I'll try to figure out how to get it set right. In your experience, would you say that 415 size thread is too big for a sheath or not? Hopefully one day we'll get to run into each other, I'm in West Texas. Thanks again for all your help, Dwayne Quote
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