Threading

[beckiesgran]

Hi, firstly I apologise if this is in the wrong place, I don't get on well with computers..... we desperately need to know how to thread a 29k58 sewing machine, We have had it a week - no paperwork to tell us anything and it seems it just doesn't want to play:begging:! The top thread is simply not catching the bottom thread, we don't know if it's even threaded right. can anyone tell us in plain simple English how to do it, before tempers get worse, and swearing gets louder. Thank you.

[Art]

Ones that were shipped to New Jersey and Northeastern Pennsylvania never seemed to work well. However they thread somewhat like a 4 so I think, can't remember the 58 too well.

Here is the location of the manual for the 4, 62, and 70.

http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/29-4.pdf

http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/29K62.pdf

http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/29K70.pdf

We have a guy WizCrafts, we call him Wiz for short who simply loves the 29s, and if he isn't out playing a pedal steel guitar gig and is still alive, will probably answer you in length if you can't get set straight by the manuals. I love sewing machines except the 29s and 30s. From my limited experience, they don't seem to like anything but 46 or 69 thread and are cantankerous at best, even changing the thread color seems to set them off.

We also have dealer, Bob Kovar who's son Bobby is the bees knees on the 29s. If totally flummoxed, take or send it to Bob in Toledo.

Good luck,

Art

Hi, firstly I apologise if this is in the wrong place, I don't get on well with computers..... we desperately need to know how to thread a 29k58 sewing machine, We have had it a week - no paperwork to tell us anything and it seems it just doesn't want to play:begging:! The top thread is simply not catching the bottom thread, we don't know if it's even threaded right. can anyone tell us in plain simple English how to do it, before tempers get worse, and swearing gets louder. Thank you.

[Wizcrafts]

We have a guy WizCrafts, we call him Wiz for short who simply loves the 29s, and if he isn't out playing a pedal steel guitar gig and is still alive, will probably answer you in length if you can't get set straight by the manuals.

Good luck,

Art

Art, you have me all figured out! I am the Stitchin' Musician! I am also still alive, so, I'll try to help beckiesgran out.

beckiesgran;

The 29k machines, nicknamed "Patchers," are all threaded the same way. All patchers have the main top tension disks on top of the head, facing the operator, with the needlebar behind it. Some patchers have a second set of tension disks - mounted on the front of the head. This second set is only used for freehand darning, not foot driven sewing. I will describe the correct thread path, for the top and bobbin threads.

1. Place the cone of thread on a thread stand, if you have one. feed a big spool off the top of the spool, up and through the twisted loops at the top of the thread stand.
2. If the spool is small, like a home style spool of thread, place it on the thread spindle, at the upper rear area of the trapeze (that's what I call the big moving arm on top).
3. Feed the thread under the spring in the little lube pot on the upper body of the machine, then out one of the holes on the left side of the pot.
4. Feed the thread to the back of the little peg behind the top tension disks
5. Go around the back of the little peg and forward to the tension disks
6. Pull the thread between the top tension disks
7. Pull the thread backwards from the disks and feed it through the eye in the spring steel on the front top of the head.
8. Feed the thread out the eye of the spring, up to the front of the eye of the take-up lever
9. Feed it through the eye of the take-up lever, front to back. Pull out about two feet of top thread through the eye.
10. Double up the thread about a foot down and place it into the recess in a threading rod.
11. Use the threading rod, or a piece of thick piano wire to ram the top thread down the snout of the needlebar
12. Keep pushing until the top thread appears under the exit hole on the bottom of the needlebar
13. Pull it out of the needlebar until it is totally straight. Withdraw the threading or ram rod.
14. Make sure that the proper 29x3 or 29x4 needle is inserted all the way up, with the eye facing to the right and the slotted shaft to the left.
15. Feed the top thread through the eye of the needle, from left to right.
16. Load a bobbin with thread.
17. Hold the loaded bobbin in one hand and the bobbin case in the other hand (move the small spring out of the way so the bobbin can be pressed into the case.
18. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case, with the thread feeding clockwise, looking down from the top. Leave about 6 inches loose. Swing the little top securing spring over the bobbin.
19. Draw the bobbin thread into the diagonal slot on the side of the case and under the little bobbin tension spring
20. Pull the thread all the way to the back of this slot, then feed it through the tiny hole in the top of the bobbin case, near the back of the spring.
21. If the machine uses a "large" bobbin, there will be a hole in the center peg on which the bobbin rotates. Feed the thread from the tiny hole through the hole in the center peg.
22. Insert the case into the shuttle and close the throat plate, feeding the remaining loose bobbin thread up and through the hole in the end which you intend to use (big hole on one end; small on the other).

You can now sew. If the thread is too tight on top, loosen the top tension nut on top of the disks. If the thread is too tight on the bottom, loosen the bobbin case screw slightly. Check top and bottom threads to make sure they aren't jammed. There should be a modicum of bobbin pressure and a lot more upper tension.

Adjust the pressure on the pressor foot to the point that keeps the leather from lifting with the needle and which is able to feed the leather a full stitch length. Adjust the stitch length with the little thumbscrew behind the brackets that move the foot. Up is shorter, down is longer. A patcher with little wear can produce 5 stitches per inch maximum, on its own. If you help by pulling or pushing the leather into the machine, you can fudge it for longer stitches. The thicker the work, the shorter the stitches.

I hope this helps get you sewing.

Edited December 30, 2010 by Wizcrafts

[beckiesgran]

Art, you have me all figured out! I am the Stitchin' Musician! I am also still alive, so, I'll try to help beckiesgran out.

beckiesgran;

The 29k machines, nicknamed "Patchers," are all threaded the same way. All patchers have the main top tension disks on top of the head, facing the operator, with the needlebar behind it. Some patchers have a second set of tension disks - mounted on the front of the head. This second set is only used for freehand darning, not foot driven sewing. I will describe the correct thread path, for the top and bobbin threads.

1. Place the cone of thread on a thread stand, if you have one. feed a big spool off the top of the spool, up and through the twisted loops at the top of the thread stand.
2. If the spool is small, like a home style spool of thread, place it on the thread spindle, at the upper rear area of the trapeze (that's what I call the big moving arm on top).
3. Feed the thread under the spring in the little lube pot on the upper body of the machine, then out one of the holes on the left side of the pot.
4. Feed the thread to the back of the little peg behind the top tension disks
5. Go around the back of the little peg and forward to the tension disks
6. Pull the thread between the top tension disks
7. Pull the thread backwards from the disks and feed it through the eye in the spring steel on the front top of the head.
8. Feed the thread out the eye of the spring, up to the front of the eye of the take-up lever
9. Feed it through the eye of the take-up lever, front to back. Pull out about two feet of top thread through the eye.
10. Double up the thread about a foot down and place it into the recess in a threading rod.
11. Use the threading rod, or a piece of thick piano wire to ram the top thread down the snout of the needlebar
12. Keep pushing until the top thread appears under the exit hole on the bottom of the needlebar
13. Pull it out of the needlebar until it is totally straight. Withdraw the threading or ram rod.
14. Make sure that the proper 29x3 or 29x4 needle is inserted all the way up, with the eye facing to the right and the slotted shaft to the left.
15. Feed the top thread through the eye of the needle, from left to right.
16. Load a bobbin with thread.
17. Hold the loaded bobbin in one hand and the bobbin case in the other hand (move the small spring out of the way so the bobbin can be pressed into the case.
18. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case, with the thread feeding clockwise, looking down from the top. Leave about 6 inches loose. Swing the little top securing spring over the bobbin.
19. Draw the bobbin thread into the diagonal slot on the side of the case and under the little bobbin tension spring
20. Pull the thread all the way to the back of this slot, then feed it through the tiny hole in the top of the bobbin case, near the back of the spring.
21. If the machine uses a "large" bobbin, there will be a hole in the center peg on which the bobbin rotates. Feed the thread from the tiny hole through the hole in the center peg.
22. Insert the case into the shuttle and close the throat plate, feeding the remaining loose bobbin thread up and through the hole in the end which you intend to use (big hole on one end; small on the other).

You can now sew. If the thread is too tight on top, loosen the top tension nut on top of the disks. If the thread is too tight on the bottom, loosen the bobbin case screw slightly. Check top and bottom threads to make sure they aren't jammed. There should be a modicum of bobbin pressure and a lot more upper tension.

Adjust the pressure on the pressor foot to the point that keeps the leather from lifting with the needle and which is able to feed the leather a full stitch length. Adjust the stitch length with the little thumbscrew behind the brackets that move the foot. Up is shorter, down is longer. A patcher with little wear can produce 5 stitches per inch maximum, on its own. If you help by pulling or pushing the leather into the machine, you can fudge it for longer stitches. The thicker the work, the shorter the stitches.

I hope this helps get you sewing.

[beckiesgran]

hi guys, don't know if this is right way to send reply, told you I was rubbish with computers. I am going to print everything off and then try out the instructions. I'll let you know what happens.

Ones that were shipped to New Jersey and Northeastern Pennsylvania never seemed to work well. However they thread somewhat like a 4 so I think, can't remember the 58 too well.

Here is the location of the manual for the 4, 62, and 70.

http://parts.singerc...anuals/29-4.pdf

http://parts.singerc...nuals/29K62.pdf

http://parts.singerc...nuals/29K70.pdf

We have a guy WizCrafts, we call him Wiz for short who simply loves the 29s, and if he isn't out playing a pedal steel guitar gig and is still alive, will probably answer you in length if you can't get set straight by the manuals. I love sewing machines except the 29s and 30s. From my limited experience, they don't seem to like anything but 46 or 69 thread and are cantankerous at best, even changing the thread color seems to set them off.

We also have dealer, Bob Kovar who's son Bobby is the bees knees on the 29s. If totally flummoxed, take or send it to Bob in Toledo.

Good luck,

Art

[beckiesgran]

Thank you so much for the details, I am going to print everything off. Will let you know what happens.

Art, you have me all figured out! I am the Stitchin' Musician! I am also still alive, so, I'll try to help beckiesgran out.

beckiesgran;

The 29k machines, nicknamed "Patchers," are all threaded the same way. All patchers have the main top tension disks on top of the head, facing the operator, with the needlebar behind it. Some patchers have a second set of tension disks - mounted on the front of the head. This second set is only used for freehand darning, not foot driven sewing. I will describe the correct thread path, for the top and bobbin threads.

1. Place the cone of thread on a thread stand, if you have one. feed a big spool off the top of the spool, up and through the twisted loops at the top of the thread stand.
2. If the spool is small, like a home style spool of thread, place it on the thread spindle, at the upper rear area of the trapeze (that's what I call the big moving arm on top).
3. Feed the thread under the spring in the little lube pot on the upper body of the machine, then out one of the holes on the left side of the pot.
4. Feed the thread to the back of the little peg behind the top tension disks
5. Go around the back of the little peg and forward to the tension disks
6. Pull the thread between the top tension disks
7. Pull the thread backwards from the disks and feed it through the eye in the spring steel on the front top of the head.
8. Feed the thread out the eye of the spring, up to the front of the eye of the take-up lever
9. Feed it through the eye of the take-up lever, front to back. Pull out about two feet of top thread through the eye.
10. Double up the thread about a foot down and place it into the recess in a threading rod.
11. Use the threading rod, or a piece of thick piano wire to ram the top thread down the snout of the needlebar
12. Keep pushing until the top thread appears under the exit hole on the bottom of the needlebar
13. Pull it out of the needlebar until it is totally straight. Withdraw the threading or ram rod.
14. Make sure that the proper 29x3 or 29x4 needle is inserted all the way up, with the eye facing to the right and the slotted shaft to the left.
15. Feed the top thread through the eye of the needle, from left to right.
16. Load a bobbin with thread.
17. Hold the loaded bobbin in one hand and the bobbin case in the other hand (move the small spring out of the way so the bobbin can be pressed into the case.
18. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case, with the thread feeding clockwise, looking down from the top. Leave about 6 inches loose. Swing the little top securing spring over the bobbin.
19. Draw the bobbin thread into the diagonal slot on the side of the case and under the little bobbin tension spring
20. Pull the thread all the way to the back of this slot, then feed it through the tiny hole in the top of the bobbin case, near the back of the spring.
21. If the machine uses a "large" bobbin, there will be a hole in the center peg on which the bobbin rotates. Feed the thread from the tiny hole through the hole in the center peg.
22. Insert the case into the shuttle and close the throat plate, feeding the remaining loose bobbin thread up and through the hole in the end which you intend to use (big hole on one end; small on the other).

You can now sew. If the thread is too tight on top, loosen the top tension nut on top of the disks. If the thread is too tight on the bottom, loosen the bobbin case screw slightly. Check top and bottom threads to make sure they aren't jammed. There should be a modicum of bobbin pressure and a lot more upper tension.

Adjust the pressure on the pressor foot to the point that keeps the leather from lifting with the needle and which is able to feed the leather a full stitch length. Adjust the stitch length with the little thumbscrew behind the brackets that move the foot. Up is shorter, down is longer. A patcher with little wear can produce 5 stitches per inch maximum, on its own. If you help by pulling or pushing the leather into the machine, you can fudge it for longer stitches. The thicker the work, the shorter the stitches.

I hope this helps get you sewing.

[beckiesgran]

Hi, I have just found the reply sign:head_hurts_kr:I have printed off the instructions and will let yo know how it goes, thanks for your help

[Luke Hatley]

Hate to hear that you are having problems.

a fine Bloke that i know lives in Ludlow his name is Ray Hatley i would give him a call

to see if it would be possible to bring the machine to his shop for some first hand

visiual instructions..................

[beckiesgran]

Hi people, we have spent the last 4 hours trying the instructions, we managed to get 2 stitches done!!! then the thread started to just go up and down and not pick up the bottom thread - we changed the thread and tried again - nothing seems to be happening. We just don't know what we are doing wrong.

The needle size is 19, it's the only packet we have, so you think it could be that?

By the way - thank you Wiz the instructions where easy to follow.

[beckiesgran]

Hi Luke, I'm sorry to say but I think bringing the machine over to the USA may cost a bit too much, even though I'm sure Ray (a relative of yours?) is more than capable of telling us what is wrong.

[Art]

I think Luke was talking about UKRay, who is over on the Welsh border, somewhere between Shrewsbury and Hereford. He is a machine nut, sometimes not torqued properly, but a good guy.

Oh by the way, on a 29, it takes about two stitches for the bobbin to run out. The 19 needle should do 69 thread ok, what thread are you using?

Art

Hi Luke, I'm sorry to say but I think bringing the machine over to the USA may cost a bit too much, even though I'm sure Ray (a relative of yours?) is more than capable of telling us what is wrong.

[beckiesgran]

:oops:Hi Art, thanks for clearing up the UK/USA misunderstanding. As to the type of thread,I have no idea, it's just on a cone. I think I will just have to wait until after the holidays and go and buy some new thread - that has the numbers on. I think at the minute it's just frustration, because we just seem to have an expensive hole punch! Hey, at least it's better than no punch at all.

[beckiesgran]

:You_Rock_Emoticon:Thanks to Wizcraft and Art for all their help, The machine is up and running, we had a few teething problems, mainly with the needle as it turns out. once we got the threading right it was the needle that kept breaking. A call into the local market to speak to the cobbler - who has the same machine - and we are up and running again, The thread issue is different, most shops seem to go off maker and colour not size. So we will have to shop arround a bit, maybe send for some from a specialist catalogue or something.

Thanks again

Beckiesgran

:oops:Hi Art, thanks for clearing up the UK/USA misunderstanding. As to the type of thread,I have no idea, it's just on a cone. I think I will just have to wait until after the holidays and go and buy some new thread - that has the numbers on. I think at the minute it's just frustration, because we just seem to have an expensive hole punch! Hey, at least it's better than no punch at all.

[Wizcrafts]

:You_Rock_Emoticon:Thanks to Wizcraft and Art for all their help, The machine is up and running, we had a few teething problems, mainly with the needle as it turns out. once we got the threading right it was the needle that kept breaking. A call into the local market to speak to the cobbler - who has the same machine - and we are up and running again, The thread issue is different, most shops seem to go off maker and colour not size. So we will have to shop arround a bit, maybe send for some from a specialist catalogue or something.

Thanks again

Beckiesgran

Singer patchers typically use #69 bonded nylon thread. It is also known as T70. Shoe repair store usually buy it in multiple colours (note the British spelling) on small 1 ounce spools from shoe trade suppliers. eBay sellers don't usually have anything smaller than 4 ounce spools. Number 69 bonded thread requires one of these needle sizes: 90/14, 100/16, or 110/18. Use leather point for leather and round/regular point for all other materials. The needle system is 29x3/Dix3 (regular) or 29x4/Dix4 (leather). Be sure you get the correct needle system or strange stuff will happen.

[beckiesgran]

Thanks Wizcraft, we will now go on the thread and needle hunt armed with some information, and won't sound quite so daft!!

I'm glad you still use ounces in USA, rather than the stupid metric system we have here - it's been here for years and I still don't understand it (perhaps because I don't want to!)

Singer patchers typically use #69 bonded nylon thread. It is also known as T70. Shoe repair store usually buy it in multiple colours (note the British spelling) on small 1 ounce spools from shoe trade suppliers. eBay sellers don't usually have anything smaller than 4 ounce spools. Number 69 bonded thread requires one of these needle sizes: 90/14, 100/16, or 110/18. Use leather point for leather and round/regular point for all other materials. The needle system is 29x3/Dix3 (regular) or 29x4/Dix4 (leather). Be sure you get the correct needle system or strange stuff will happen.