C.s. Osborn Bag Punch

[Sixer]

I finally picked up a 1 1/2" oblong punch last week. I thought it would be a major time saver when making the belt slots on my OWB holsters.

Although it seem pretty sharp to the touch, it still took almost a dozen wacks to get it to punch through 6/7 oz. Herman Oak.

I've gotta be doing something wrong, just not exactly sure what? I'm using a poly hammer that's probably too light, and pounding on a 1" thick board with a couple layer of scrap leather between the wood and my holsters.

Any suggestions on using this tool more effectively?

Thanks

[Go2Tex]

Yeah, I have the same problems with some punches. It might be the hammer and/or the surface. Try a bench anvil with leather scrap to protect the punch. You need a really firm surface to get some larger punches through leather. Also, it could use some sharpening too. Try stropping it a bit. If you have a buffing wheel it might help.

[Hicks02]

The hammer maybe to light. I had the same trouble with mine. I had to sharpen and strop mine quite a bit. It is still not as sharp as it needs to be. It still takes several whacks to get through two layers of 7/8 oz leather. Hope this helps, JH.

[sfcdan]

I bought a 3 ton ratchetin arbor press. Since then, I don't have the need for the hammer because the pressure punches through the leather with ease. The ratchetin arbor presses go up to 7 tons but are a bit expensive. I think the 3 is perfect, its the same size as the 4 but not as expensive. If anyone is interested in the ratchetin arbor press, make sure its ratchetin, and not just an arbor press. There is a difference. I also use it for other things such as punching letters and my maker stamp, Daniel.

[Fredo]

I found that two things make a huge difference. One is that your hammer has to have the heft to transfer enough energy to cut through. I use a 2 lb copper hammer. I dont have to hit it hard, I let the wheight of the hammer do the work. If you play golf it's the same theroy as your golf club, don't swing hard let the club do the work.

The second is that your base has to have enough heft to NOT MOVE or give in any way. I Use a poly cutting board over my granite slab. If you're using a board and a couple of pieces of scrap leather under the leather you're trying to punch through you're loosing too much energy. The board and the scrap leather are giving (compressing) enough that you're not cutting through.

The granite gives me a heavy base, the cutting board protects the tool.

Stroping is also key.

[Tina]

I finally picked up a 1 1/2" oblong punch last week. I thought it would be a major time saver when making the belt slots on my OWB holsters.

Although it seem pretty sharp to the touch, it still took almost a dozen wacks to get it to punch through 6/7 oz. Herman Oak.

I've gotta be doing something wrong, just not exactly sure what? I'm using a poly hammer that's probably too light, and pounding on a 1" thick board with a couple layer of scrap leather between the wood and my holsters.

Any suggestions on using this tool more effectively?

Thanks

Now, I don't have the Osborne punches but, I use a 4 lb maul to wack on my bigger oblong punches, it only takes a few wacks to get it done.

[Denster]

Several things come into play. First for punching through two layers of heavy leather the punches have to be reground at the primary bevel. Otherwise the shoulder is trying to stretch it's way through. Two use at least a three pound maul four pounds is better. Third the punch must be really sharp. You need a well polished very shallow bevel on the inside of the punch. This is only one to two degrees and extends inside about 1/8. Third a solid surface is mandantory. I use a poly board on top of my granite slab. Four you need to case the leather before punching. Even with the reground primary bevel there will be some stretching at the ends and you can tear the top grain if you don't case. I can punch through two layers of Hermann Oak 8/9OZ with one at most two good solid whacks.

Edited January 5, 2011 by Denster

[JeffGC]

I use a 1.25" O'Brien punch to cut belt slots. I place the backup pad on a cement floor and use a synthetic dead-blow hammer.

Regards,

Jeff

[marine mp]

You also might try something slippery on the punch to make it "glide" thru the cased leather easier......like beeswax. It also allows you to remove the punch from the leather much easier after it punches thru. Semper-fi Mike

[Sixer]

Thanks for the help! I sharpened the punch a bit, got a bigger hammer (rubber), and placed the leather on a concrete floor with scrap between.

It was MUCH easier to punch through the leather. I'll have to try a little beeswax next time! Thanks again