Anyone Put Spots Into Leather?

[jasonsmith]

Does anyone put spots in their leather? I use the 1/2" pyramid spots. Just wondering what type and weight leather you use? I use an adjustable slot punch like this:

I've got a Tandy single shoulder 6 ounce leather that I find difficult to punch. Sometimes the prongs bend. I was thinking of either going with a smaller weight like 4 ounce, or maybe looking to see if there is a different type of leather that is easier to punch? I've used some leather years ago that was thicker, but was easier to punch than the thinner Tandy leather.

[Luke Hatley]

Jason, i set spots on leather that is not thicker than the prongs are longer.

I have one of the spot setters i would like to sell.... I had the same problem as you have.

Now i use two wing dividers, one to mark the distance between the prongs and the other

to mark the distance between the spots.

after the leather is marked i will use my AWL to cut the holes for the spot prongs.

this works for me........

[jasonsmith]

Jason, i set spots on leather that is not thicker than the prongs are longer.

I have one of the spot setters i would like to sell.... I had the same problem as you have.

Now i use two wing dividers, one to mark the distance between the prongs and the other

to mark the distance between the spots.

after the leather is marked i will use my AWL to cut the holes for the spot prongs.

this works for me........

What I like to do is use the dual prong punch and use graph paper to use as a template when I punch the leather. That way I can punch out the whole design and have my rows straight. And also it will keep my slits parallel with each other.

Though, it's been a while since I have done this. As before, the leather was already dyed and was easy to punch. But I find the shoulders I just bought from Tandy to be hard to punch through. I'm not sure if it is because of the weight (6 ounce), or because of the type of leather, or a combination of the two. I'm gonna look at going with a smaller weight (4 ounce), or maybe see if there is a different type of leather other than the shoulder that is easier to punch slits in with my dual prong punch. I'll probably stop by Tandy to see if they have some extra stuff laying around I can punch some test pieces to find something that will work. As I want the leather sturdy enough to hold a point after I cut the leather out, but be easy to punch without bending my tools.

[rodeomic]

Does anyone put spots in their leather? I use the 1/2" pyramid spots. Just wondering what type and weight leather you use? I use an adjustable slot punch like this:

I've got a Tandy single shoulder 6 ounce leather that I find difficult to punch. Sometimes the prongs bend. I was thinking of either going with a smaller weight like 4 ounce, or maybe looking to see if there is a different type of leather that is easier to punch? I've used some leather years ago that was thicker, but was easier to punch than the thinner Tandy leather.

Jason,

Good morning! Don't laugh, but I use a horse shoe nail to pre-punch for the spots. The spot prongs follow that shape created by the nail pretty well.

Happy Trails!

Roger

[jasonsmith]

I'm wanting to use that adjustable spot punch. Just looking for something that would be easier to punch through than 6 ounce Tandys shoulders. I'm sure thinner leather would work, but not sure of how thin I'd want to go with my armband as I want it to be able to hold a point. Thin leather can want to curl up if you have a 90* angle cut. I'll probably see if Tandy has some samples of their different leathers at the shop that I can do test punches on.

Part of the problem may be with how the leather is cut. So, some leather may be tougher than other leather of the same ounce.

[MartyS]

the blades on those spot punches bend because they are only sharpened on one edge of each blade like a wood chisel. if you take the blades out and sharpen both edges so it looks more like a cold chisel, then the blades won't deflect. hope that helps M

[jasonsmith]

the blades on those spot punches bend because they are only sharpened on one edge of each blade like a wood chisel. if you take the blades out and sharpen both edges so it looks more like a cold chisel, then the blades won't deflect. hope that helps M

I think it mostly has to do with it is hard to punch through the leather. As I could do a couple hard hits, and still not get through the leather.

I like it being a single edged blade on those blades. That way, I put the flat side on the outboard edge. And use that to line up with my graph paper. I've got some double edged blades, and the tips don't line up with my graph paper on the 1/2" lines. The other problem with the double edged blades, is the slots are punched too close together as it is shy of 1/2". So, that makes it very hard to insert the spot.

Edited January 11, 2011 by jasonsmith

[hivemind]

Now i use two wing dividers, one to mark the distance between the prongs and the other

to mark the distance between the spots.

after the leather is marked i will use my AWL to cut the holes for the spot prongs.

this works for me........

I do this as well, except that I punch the holes with a single-hole thonging chisel.

[Luke Hatley]

I do this as well, except that I punch the holes with a single-hole thonging chisel.

Great minds think alike..........

[reddevil76]

What I like to do is use the dual prong punch and use graph paper to use as a template when I punch the leather. That way I can punch out the whole design and have my rows straight. And also it will keep my slits parallel with each other.

Though, it's been a while since I have done this. As before, the leather was already dyed and was easy to punch. But I find the shoulders I just bought from Tandy to be hard to punch through. I'm not sure if it is because of the weight (6 ounce), or because of the type of leather, or a combination of the two. I'm gonna look at going with a smaller weight (4 ounce), or maybe see if there is a different type of leather other than the shoulder that is easier to punch slits in with my dual prong punch. I'll probably stop by Tandy to see if they have some extra stuff laying around I can punch some test pieces to find something that will work. As I want the leather sturdy enough to hold a point after I cut the leather out, but be easy to punch without bending my tools.

I have some spots on hand which I have never tried setting. But when I come around to it, that graph paper tip is one thing I will remember. Its ingenious!

[Kieth]

This tool is junk. I/m all for the wing dividers and if the leather is tough I prepunch with a diamond awl.

[raysouth]

The tool is a nice idea but the "blades", "prongs", are just weak and bend easily. I use the tool now and then but have sharpened the prongs to a point and they seem to do a better job. Still not ideal but okay for use now and then.

God Bless.

Ray