Holsters. Dye Or Mold First ?

[slingblade]

Sorry for the question. I am making some holsters that I use a dummy gun to mold with. I have been dying first with fiebings spirit dye and then pressure molding in a press. After they dry my color is blotchy and inconsistant. If I mold first, then dye. I seem to get incosistant color as well due to some portions of holster being pressed more and some areas being more porous. Pleas help if you can. Any ideas. This is not as much of a problem with dark colors but espically true with light brown and british tan.

[Dwight]

For the reasons you mentioned above, I have all but quit using my holster press, . . . except for those I know will be black.

I'm working on a vacuum molding deal, . . . havn't gotten it where I want it, . . . doing hand molds for all browns for now.

Sorry I couldn't be more help, . . . maybe if you moved this question to the holster section you might get a bit more traffic.

May God bless,

Dwight

[BanjoMan]

Slingblade, In response to your question-I mold and bone by hand first and then dye. As long as you keep your moisture content right while forming and are careful not to burnish the leather, you should be able to achieve consistent coverage when dying. I know it's a matter of personal preference, but this method has worked well for me so far. How are you applying your dyes and finishes?

[JoelR]

For me, it depends on the dye being used. USMC Black acts as a water resist once dry, so with it, I mold first then dye. Fiebings Professional Oil dyes tend not to resist water, but can darken once exposed to water (and you can create some cool aged effects with water and not-so-dry oil based dyes) so I go a shade-or-two lighter with them. For me, the oil based dyes absorb better than the spirit so I only buy oil at this point.