ktravis Report post Posted January 26, 2011 I'm hoping someone here can help me. When I bought my shop (in 1989) it came with a supply of wire bristles. These are great for stitching cantle bindings because they are flexible, and I could feed them up under the Cheyenne roll, where there is not a lot of room. I am now down to my last bristle, and it is getting pretty beat up. I have not found any new ones. Does anyone know where I can get some? Also, what are the best alternatives IF I can't get any more bristles. What are you using, and how do you stich your Cheyenne rolls at the cantle?. Thanks, Keith Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blake Report post Posted January 26, 2011 I'm hoping someone here can help me. When I bought my shop (in 1989) it came with a supply of wire bristles. These are great for stitching cantle bindings because they are flexible, and I could feed them up under the Cheyenne roll, where there is not a lot of room. I am now down to my last bristle, and it is getting pretty beat up. I have not found any new ones. Does anyone know where I can get some? Also, what are the best alternatives IF I can't get any more bristles. What are you using, and how do you stich your Cheyenne rolls at the cantle?. Thanks, Keith Pilgrim shoe supply has "Boot Quills" and also J H Cook in N Carolina. Blake Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Report post Posted January 26, 2011 I found some floss pullers that are shaped the same, but look like fishing line. I think they will work the same. Good luck, Kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mworthan Report post Posted January 28, 2011 (edited) How do you stitch using wire bristles? I just always used an awl, egg eye needles and linen thread. Just curious.... Edited January 28, 2011 by mworthan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blake Report post Posted January 28, 2011 How do you stitch using wire bristles? I just always used an awl, egg eye needles and linen thread. Just curious.... "Pop Stitch" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mworthan Report post Posted January 30, 2011 "Pop Stitch" Can you explain the process if you have time? I've seen a buckstitch done with rawhide lace. Is it similar? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randy Cornelius Report post Posted January 30, 2011 I think he is refering to what most, or some of use call a jerk needle. It is more or less like a needle off an old landis sole stitcher. You push the jerk needle down through the hole. wrap the thread around the needle and the small slice ( whatever you call it) catches the thread and you pull up a loop, pass the thread through the loop and pull the threads tight. Kinda like a speedy stiticher. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mworthan Report post Posted January 31, 2011 I think he is refering to what most, or some of use call a jerk needle. It is more or less like a needle off an old landis sole stitcher. You push the jerk needle down through the hole. wrap the thread around the needle and the small slice ( whatever you call it) catches the thread and you pull up a loop, pass the thread through the loop and pull the threads tight. Kinda like a speedy stiticher. Gotcha, If it gets cut or breaks, will it unravel? or... is it just as good as a lockstitch where you cross needles / threads. The benefit is that it is faster? Thanks, Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randy Cornelius Report post Posted January 31, 2011 Gotcha, If it gets cut or breaks, will it unravel? I guess If it got cut it could unravel but have not seen that happen. or... is it just as good as a lockstitch where you cross needles / threads. The benefit is that it is faster? Thanks, Mike The benefit is that it is used where you cannot get a needle in underneather the bottom side of the Cheyene roll. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted January 31, 2011 Bristles can be actual boar bristles or synthetics like the flexible wire or plastic. I watched a video of a guy using guitar strings and some boot makers use heavy monofilament fishing line. They are flexible and will bend to get into a confined are or follow a curved awl hole. The thread is attrached to the bristle with a wax and whipped on. They can be used in a traditional saddle stitch with the threads crossing in the awl hole. "Pop Stitching" to me basically means a running stitch - in and out with a single thread going in one direction just like using a thread to do a buckstitch pattern. This is used on some overlaid seats with the thread coming up and going down through each scallop. Some makers do it on cantle bindings too. Diifernet people use thread, lacing tape, or artificial sinew. Randy described using a jerk needle well. What it makes is a mechanical lock stitch like a machine. You can reach down into corners and hook a thread underneath and pull a loop back up through the hole. You pass the top thread through and then tension the bottom thread to bring the lock down into the leather. I sew my Cheyenne rolls with a saddle stitch. I start down in the corners nearly horizontal or even angled up slightly so I can get my backside needles in. I may use the same bottom hole twice before moving to the next one. The lets me catch up and keep the same stitch spacing on the bottom as the top. Once I get to where I am in the clear, then I go to the normal saddle stitch sequence. Hard to explain but it is shown in one of the Stohlman books. I usually sew to past center from one side or the other and then start in the other corner and overlap a few stitches. I do the overlap slightly off center of the binding so it is not quite as noticable. Again maybe from Stohlman, maybe someone here gave that tip. Some days I have done this technique with one thread and go all the way across for grins. You need to have the floor clean and things out of the way. It uses a mega-pull of thread and takes a lot of time pulling slack. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Saddlebag Report post Posted January 31, 2011 (edited) I can't thank you folks enough for the above information. It will make the next job a lot easier. I have a small packet of #5 needles and another of #6. Does anyone use that sailor's thunb harness with a etal piece for pushing the needle down? Dang, can't think of the name. I made one and used a new penny. Works slick and sure saves the fingers, that and my small needle nosed pliers that fit the hand nicely. Edited January 31, 2011 by Saddlebag Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Report post Posted February 2, 2011 I won't mention any names, but my teacher said "get the $^*&*#$*ing saddle off the stand and put it on your bench!". It works. Kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted February 2, 2011 Like Bruce, I saddle stitch my cantle bindings, and I use one length of thread, just because.....well, just because. I like the look better without a splice in the middle somewhere. No matter how good you are, it will still show some. It does take longer but the results are worth it. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mworthan Report post Posted February 8, 2011 Was watching a "How things are made " program the other night and they were at a saddle factory (semi-custom it seemed) and the guy doing the horn and cantle binding stitch was sitting in the saddle when he did both. I think he was buckstitching the cantle binding using artificial sinew. Had a huge awl and was moving really quick. Anyway, I have a Carl Ammerman calf roper done that way and has held up so maybe not a bad way to cut some time off, if that is what the customer wants (or doesn't know the difference or even care). BTW, how many customers have you had in the shop looking at one of your own and you are pointing out all of the extras that take time (saddle stitched cantle bindings for example or domed rivets) and realize that to the average buyer, they could care less? Guess it depends on your clientel. Mine is pretty " no frills". None of them (the men) want anything floral tooled (that's for girls I guess) and mostly rough or smooth out only. I just went through that a couple of days ago and it has me wondering about what we do to impress the average buyer vs. each other (in the trade). Just thinking.... Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hennessy Report post Posted February 11, 2011 Was watching a "How things are made " program the other night and they were at a saddle factory (semi-custom it seemed) and the guy doing the horn and cantle binding stitch was sitting in the saddle when he did both. I think he was buckstitching the cantle binding using artificial sinew. Had a huge awl and was moving really quick. Anyway, I have a Carl Ammerman calf roper done that way and has held up so maybe not a bad way to cut some time off, if that is what the customer wants (or doesn't know the difference or even care). BTW, how many customers have you had in the shop looking at one of your own and you are pointing out all of the extras that take time (saddle stitched cantle bindings for example or domed rivets) and realize that to the average buyer, they could care less? Guess it depends on your clientel. Mine is pretty " no frills". None of them (the men) want anything floral tooled (that's for girls I guess) and mostly rough or smooth out only. I just went through that a couple of days ago and it has me wondering about what we do to impress the average buyer vs. each other (in the trade). Just thinking.... Mike that huge awl you speak of is probably a phillips screwdriver ground down,very common in production shops i'm sure it's been temper'd,i have one its thin a bit wide but sure is fun to sew with Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
