Members Saddlebag Posted January 31, 2011 Members Report Posted January 31, 2011 (edited) I can't thank you folks enough for the above information. It will make the next job a lot easier. I have a small packet of #5 needles and another of #6. Does anyone use that sailor's thunb harness with a etal piece for pushing the needle down? Dang, can't think of the name. I made one and used a new penny. Works slick and sure saves the fingers, that and my small needle nosed pliers that fit the hand nicely. Edited January 31, 2011 by Saddlebag Quote
Members Kevin Posted February 2, 2011 Members Report Posted February 2, 2011 I won't mention any names, but my teacher said "get the $^*&*#$*ing saddle off the stand and put it on your bench!". It works. Kevin Quote
Members BondoBobCustomSaddles Posted February 2, 2011 Members Report Posted February 2, 2011 Like Bruce, I saddle stitch my cantle bindings, and I use one length of thread, just because.....well, just because. I like the look better without a splice in the middle somewhere. No matter how good you are, it will still show some. It does take longer but the results are worth it. Bob Quote
Members mworthan Posted February 8, 2011 Members Report Posted February 8, 2011 Was watching a "How things are made " program the other night and they were at a saddle factory (semi-custom it seemed) and the guy doing the horn and cantle binding stitch was sitting in the saddle when he did both. I think he was buckstitching the cantle binding using artificial sinew. Had a huge awl and was moving really quick. Anyway, I have a Carl Ammerman calf roper done that way and has held up so maybe not a bad way to cut some time off, if that is what the customer wants (or doesn't know the difference or even care). BTW, how many customers have you had in the shop looking at one of your own and you are pointing out all of the extras that take time (saddle stitched cantle bindings for example or domed rivets) and realize that to the average buyer, they could care less? Guess it depends on your clientel. Mine is pretty " no frills". None of them (the men) want anything floral tooled (that's for girls I guess) and mostly rough or smooth out only. I just went through that a couple of days ago and it has me wondering about what we do to impress the average buyer vs. each other (in the trade). Just thinking.... Mike Quote
Hennessy Posted February 11, 2011 Report Posted February 11, 2011 Was watching a "How things are made " program the other night and they were at a saddle factory (semi-custom it seemed) and the guy doing the horn and cantle binding stitch was sitting in the saddle when he did both. I think he was buckstitching the cantle binding using artificial sinew. Had a huge awl and was moving really quick. Anyway, I have a Carl Ammerman calf roper done that way and has held up so maybe not a bad way to cut some time off, if that is what the customer wants (or doesn't know the difference or even care). BTW, how many customers have you had in the shop looking at one of your own and you are pointing out all of the extras that take time (saddle stitched cantle bindings for example or domed rivets) and realize that to the average buyer, they could care less? Guess it depends on your clientel. Mine is pretty " no frills". None of them (the men) want anything floral tooled (that's for girls I guess) and mostly rough or smooth out only. I just went through that a couple of days ago and it has me wondering about what we do to impress the average buyer vs. each other (in the trade). Just thinking.... Mike that huge awl you speak of is probably a phillips screwdriver ground down,very common in production shops i'm sure it's been temper'd,i have one its thin a bit wide but sure is fun to sew with Quote
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