Mixing Fiebings Spirit Dyes

[ormus1]

Im sure this has been asked but I couldnt find it. I read the books on mixing dyes and using the reducers. My issue is understanding the procedure. when I mix dyes or thinner with the dye ( using the ratios in the various books) I dont get a color, I get a dark wet area with slight color at the edges when it dries. Also when using the cross dye method, do I wait for the base color to be completely dry before I apply the top color to achieve a different effect? Im trying to get away from acrylics for lighter colors,

thanks in advance.

[Spinner]

Typically, if you're getting the big dark spot with colored edges it means that either the reducer/solvent isn't fully compatible with the dye type or the mix is too thin/not fully mixed. The brush/brushes could also be loaded with solvent from their last cleaning and are further diluting the mix.

Personally, I prefer to use solvents I know already from having them in the shop instead of reducers. For acrylics & water based dyes - simple water works fine. For Spirit based I like denatured alcohol. For Oil dyes and the special colors like Fiebings white & gray, I used Specs Paint Thinner.

What is the mixed dye/paint doing inside the container?

Does it look evenly mixed or does the pigment look blotchy, congealed or separated (one floating on the other)?

[ormus1]

Typically, if you're getting the big dark spot with colored edges it means that either the reducer/solvent isn't fully compatible with the dye type or the mix is too thin/not fully mixed. The brush/brushes could also be loaded with solvent from their last cleaning and are further diluting the mix.

Personally, I prefer to use solvents I know already from having them in the shop instead of reducers. For acrylics & water based dyes - simple water works fine. For Spirit based I like denatured alcohol. For Oil dyes and the special colors like Fiebings white & gray, I used Specs Paint Thinner.

What is the mixed dye/paint doing inside the container?

Does it look evenly mixed or does the pigment look blotchy, congealed or separated (one floating on the other)?

Hmm yes they do seem blotchy when I use the reducer. when it comes to the cross dye method, do you let the base color dry completely before applying the top color to get the color effect.

[Spinner]

Hmm yes they do seem blotchy when I use the reducer. when it comes to the cross dye method, do you let the base color dry completely before applying the top color to get the color effect.

Yeah, sounds like you need a different thinning agent. Exactly what dye are you using (colors, etc)?

Sorry, I don't recognize the term...When you say cross dye, do you mean blending/fading one color into another? Something like this?

I that is the case, then I lay down the lighter color over the whole area to be colored and then start from the darkest area (the left side in this pic) and work the darker color over it, fading out as desired.

By dying the whole piece with the lighter color first, it will avoid any demarcations or 'color borders' where the two colors meet. Some colors don't work well together (like Burgundy & black, don't ask me how I know) and will create a shiny line where the meet behind the blend.

As for the undercoat drying question, you can go either way. The difference is that a wet undercoat will tend to blend more with the top coat so if you're trying to do fades, aging, etc dry undercoat usually works better with a top coat dry brush technique.

If you're trying to get the colors to blend to a new shade/color on the piece then both wet works better.

Edited January 29, 2011 by Spinner