Advice Please - Small Carving

[brettra]

Hello Everyone,

Well, my first real post. I carved a bunny from a craft aid. The total size of this project is about 2 1/2 X 1 1/2 inches so it was a challenge to do the cuts with my ceramic swivel knife. I spent a bit more time on the face (top right side) and pretty much rushed the rest just to try and get a general feel for the project so, I know the main project is really rough. I found the cutting to be a challenge. Any advice for swivel knife on the small cuts?

The bevelling was also tough. Should it still only be on the one side or both?

The face didn't seem to come out right so cutting advice for here is appreciated also.

Thanks for taking the time to help me out.

Scott

Rabbit

[bison]

Hi Scott,

Welcome to the world of posting!

I'd say the carving doesn't look too bad. As you say, you can tell where it looks a bit rushed. I would suggest looking at something other than a ceramic blade swivel knife. If you can save up some money, you can find a great swivel knife here: http://www.leatherwranglers.com/products.html

When I was able to purchase mine, it made a world of difference in my carving.

Also remember to case the leather well so you can carve and bevel more smoothly. There are pinned tutorials on the site about it...just search casing leather. The only other thing I'd say is keep practicing your beveling. Getting a nice smooth bevel from "walking" the bevel tool takes a lot of practice, but once you've mastered it your work will really start to shine.

Good luck.

Dave

[BillB]

Scott,

I have gone through 5 different swivel knife barrels and 5 different blades before I found the combination of barrel and blade that I like to use on a project. The size of the item to be carved will cause me to change the knife blade that I am using. For one the size you did, I would be using the Al Stohlman Brand HCS1055 1/4" Angle blade for larger jobs I would use the lager angle blade or the regular swivel knife blade. I use Tandy as a reference since they are on-line and easy to access. Similar blades are offered by a number of manufactures of fine tools. Make sure that the finger loop is at a comfortable height and you are holding the knife correctly.

As for the tooling, I could see the lines caused by the edges of the bevel. This can be improved with practice and sliding the bevel along shorter distances for each strike of the mallet. Also, for figure carving, there is a whole different set of bevels designed just for figure carving. They are the F series and the bevels are F890, F891, F895, F896, F897. Their shape allows the tool to be held at different ables to allow for the various curves and features found in figure carving. For example, the tips can be used to bevel in the small "v" between the legs and the body or arms and the body.

You can find helpful information in the books Figure Carving (#6045-00), Pictorial Carving (#66037-00), Figure Carving Finesse (#61951-00) and Pictorail Carving Finesse (#6195-00)

As mentioned before, a properly cased piece of leather is the foundation needed to do good carving. There are a number of topics here that discuss the process of casing leather. Also a properly maintained edge on the knife is important for smooth, easy cuts.

I hope this helps. Keep it up, it does look good.

BillB

[Ferg]

Hello Everyone,

Well, my first real post. I carved a bunny from a craft aid. The total size of this project is about 2 1/2 X 1 1/2 inches so it was a challenge to do the cuts with my ceramic swivel knife. I spent a bit more time on the face (top right side) and pretty much rushed the rest just to try and get a general feel for the project so, I know the main project is really rough. I found the cutting to be a challenge. Any advice for swivel knife on the small cuts?

The bevelling was also tough. Should it still only be on the one side or both?

The face didn't seem to come out right so cutting advice for here is appreciated also.

Thanks for taking the time to help me out.

Scott

Rabbit

Scott,

If this is your first try, not bad. You need to move your beveler as you tap it with mallet or maul, walking is the proper name for it. I have never used the ceramic blades but I have an SK-3 among several other swivel knives, it cannot be beat. For small work a 1/4" angle blade or even an 1/8" angle blade would work better. The beveling.... you need to look in the forum archives for figure carving tutorials first then consider buying some Al Stohlman books or some of the other leather artists on this forum have tutorials as well as publications.

Look, study, practice, practice, practice, did I mention practice??

ferg

[brettra]

Thanks all,

Part of the problem is that I inherited a tonne of tools and likely have a bit too much choice in what to use. I know my bevelling needs work and will continue to go on that route of practising. I have a multitude of swivel knife blades and think I need to spend some time getting to know them all before switching to another swivel knife. I like the way the ceramic cuts but seem to be stumbling on the really tight corners. I think I need to try the filigree blade. I have another swivel knife blade that is steel and has a red piece of glass or ceramic for the tip. Have not been able to find any info on this blade but it seems to cut in a similar fashion to the ceramic.

So back to my original questions: Should I bevel one side or both sides on this bunny?

Cutting: Obviously from the answers, simply more practice and trial & error with various blades. (I will try this)

Again, thanks for taking the time to assist.

Scott

[BillB]

Scott,

At one time there was a ruby blade being made. I think that is what you have with the steel and red blade. They were supposed to be better than the steel blades and were before ceramic blades. I don't know how you would sharpen it or what happens if the ruby gets chipped. I think they are man made rubies and not natural.

BillN

[brettra]

Thanks BillN,

When I get a chance I'll take a picture of it and post for confirmation.

Appreciate the time and knowledge...

Scott

Scott,

At one time there was a ruby blade being made. I think that is what you have with the steel and red blade. They were supposed to be better than the steel blades and were before ceramic blades. I don't know how you would sharpen it or what happens if the ruby gets chipped. I think they are man made rubies and not natural.

BillN

[bex DK]

The normal bevel is the outside of things. Then there is inverse carving where you bevel inside the outer line. In either case, you bevel inside the way that works right to build the shape. Places where the parts are about the same height, you double bevel (beveling on both sides).

Experiment and follow your gut, and you're not likely to go far wrong. Just think about hwat should be looking closer or taller or on top of what and bevel accordingly.

I've done a bit of smaller carving and definitely found an angle blade easier for that. It also helps to keep it sharp, but I don't know how that works with the ceramics. If you didn't try it, sharpening might help a lot with the steel blades you do have. You need a leather-on-wood thing for stropping and the rouge. The Stohlman tool book is a great reference. It has some info on how to use the tools and even more on how to maintain and hold them. That is one I have definitely found helpful to own.