Round Brim Hat Report post Posted February 5, 2011 So I have a friend who wants to get rid of his Union, it does still work but does act up on occasion. It should be rebuild/repaired, he thinks that Weaver is the best place to get it fixed up but its not going to be cheap. Price is right on the machine though. Just wondering if I should do it. I know if I do get it and have it fixed up I highly doubt I'd ever have to get another machine in my lifetime. Thoughts? Kronic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted February 5, 2011 (edited) So I have a friend who wants to get rid of his Union, it does still work but does act up on occasion. It should be rebuild/repaired, he thinks that Weaver is the best place to get it fixed up but its not going to be cheap. Price is right on the machine though. Just wondering if I should do it. I know if I do get it and have it fixed up I highly doubt I'd ever have to get another machine in my lifetime. Thoughts? Kronic I got a Union Lockstitch in a trade, 13 months ago, and have already invested over $1000 in replacement parts, needles, awls, bobbins and thread. I rebuilt it myself, having previously had one 15 years ago. Despite its capabilities, I would gladly trade it for an Adler 205-370. The ULS is one of the finickiest stitchers available. If you are going to pay over $2500, including the purchase of the machine and estimated repairs, call Campbell Randall first. They are the dealer and parts depot for all Union Lockstitch machines. Everyone else gets their parts from Campbell-Randall and marks them up. Campbell sells already rebuilt ULS machines for not too much more than it cost me for my machine and the parts to rebuild it myself. Campbell-Randall Machinery Co. 401 Irvine St. Yoakum, TX 77995 Phone: 800-327-9420 Tell them Wiz sent ya! Edited February 5, 2011 by Wizcrafts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Report post Posted February 6, 2011 The Union is a persnickety machine, I've had one for 25 years and have yet to run a whole spool of thread through it. It is old enough to have a zone number on the makers plate, but looks brand new. Maybe a used one that has loosened up a little over the years is easier to handle. For my use, I prefer the Campbell or Landis 3, If I were doing some kind of production, then I would use the Union. Kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted February 6, 2011 I've read somewhere that the Union Lockstitch is a one man machine. I have to agree. Mine is one hundred years old and sews like a champ, because I set it up to my own specifications. Timing is touchy on these machines. If you change the stitch length, you may need to re-time the needle's vertical height as the point passes over it. Also, you may need to re-position the needle forward/backward, to get it to line up with the hole the awl pokes. I have a mixture of old and new bobbins and they are nothing alike. If I set the proper bobbin tension on an old bobbin, then change to a new one, the tension spring is much tighter (and vise versa). The position of the lockstitch can be adjusted by three different adjustments, which can be confusing. It will probably take a newbie about a half year to really become proficient sewing on a Union Lockstitch machine. But once you get to that point, the sky is the limit! You will develop a rhythm for working with the machine. You'll develop tricks for turning the work around to backtack, without losing the top thread loop, or ratting the bottom threads. You will learn about the best angle for your awls, for the appearance you prefer and the best combinations of needle and awl sizes for each type of thread you are using. Probably, the hardest thing to get right is sewing with linen thread, which must go through a liquid wax pot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Report post Posted February 6, 2011 I loves me some Sellari's and linen. Kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted February 6, 2011 I loves me some Sellari's and linen. Kevin Is it better than LaxWax? Does the thread stick to the barb of the needle when run through Sellari's wax? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Report post Posted February 6, 2011 Sellari's is some stickey, gooey stuff. If you go wait on a customer for five minutes, it has already started to set up. I guess it has a lot of rosin in it or something. I haven't had any trouble with it sticking to anything as long as you keep sewing and it stays liquid, but once it solidifies, it is there. You don't have to worry about your stitches coming apart. The first nylon thread I got from Weaver's was like yarn, so I ran it through the wax pot on my Adler, ten years later there are still traces of it on the machine. O n the Campbell or Landis3, when I was ready to start stitching, I just sprayed some WD40 on the take-up rollers, bobbin and anywhere else in the threadpath, pulled fresh thread through and stitched on. The girl that used the Campbell before me used kerosene for cleaning, they also make a thinner for the wax, but it is pretty strong stuff. If I were to go back to linen thread, I would definitely use the Sellari's again. Kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted February 6, 2011 Sellari's is some stickey, gooey stuff. If you go wait on a customer for five minutes, it has already started to set up. I guess it has a lot of rosin in it or something. I haven't had any trouble with it sticking to anything as long as you keep sewing and it stays liquid, but once it solidifies, it is there. You don't have to worry about your stitches coming apart. The first nylon thread I got from Weaver's was like yarn, so I ran it through the wax pot on my Adler, ten years later there are still traces of it on the machine. O n the Campbell or Landis3, when I was ready to start stitching, I just sprayed some WD40 on the take-up rollers, bobbin and anywhere else in the threadpath, pulled fresh thread through and stitched on. The girl that used the Campbell before me used kerosene for cleaning, they also make a thinner for the wax, but it is pretty strong stuff. If I were to go back to linen thread, I would definitely use the Sellari's again. Kevin I'm using Lax Wax, from Campbell-Randall. It is water soluble and fairly easy to clean up and thin. However, the thread definitely stays tightly stitched when run through the goo. It also helps flatten out the little linen tread particles. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Round Brim Hat Report post Posted February 7, 2011 Well as far as running the current owner is willing to take a day or so to show me how to set this machine up and what setting he has everything on. I will call Campbell and see what they say. Will let you know how I make out with it. Thanks Kronic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted February 7, 2011 Well as far as running the current owner is willing to take a day or so to show me how to set this machine up and what setting he has everything on. I will call Campbell and see what they say. Will let you know how I make out with it. Thanks Kronic Be sure you buy the manual, which also is the parts list. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Round Brim Hat Report post Posted February 10, 2011 Well I emailed them two days ago and no answer at all. Would have phoned but just haven't had time as work has been crazy! Kronic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CampbellRandall Report post Posted February 10, 2011 Well I emailed them two days ago and no answer at all. Would have phoned but just haven't had time as work has been crazy! Kronic Kronic: I didn't see your email. Did you send it to info (a) randallmachine.com? If you need some basic instructions on setup and adjustment, take a look at the videos below. Best Regards, Dan Naegle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted February 10, 2011 Kronic: I didn't see your email. Did you send it to info (a) randallmachine.com? If you need some basic instructions on setup and adjustment, take a look at the videos below. Best Regards, Dan Naegle Dan; Just what number and designation is the pressor foot in those ULS demos? I may want one of those feet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
