Holster Finishing, Oil? Sheen?

[jlaudio29]

Im trying to figure out what i should do after all the edges are burnished and the holster is wetformed... what do i need to do to finalize the holster.. also how do i give the leather a semi-gloss?

Thanks in advance for the help!

[Shooter McGavin]

Im trying to figure out what i should do after all the edges are burnished and the holster is wetformed... what do i need to do to finalize the holster.. also how do i give the leather a semi-gloss?

Thanks in advance for the help!

I like to use EcoFlo Satin Sheen, and buff it with a soft cloth after each coat, of which I typically do 3, warming the leather with a heat gun before applying.

[katsass]

Im trying to figure out what i should do after all the edges are burnished and the holster is wetformed... what do i need to do to finalize the holster.. also how do i give the leather a semi-gloss?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Well jl, I like to shoot two shots of Fiebing's Leather Sheen on my warmed holsters; allowing time to dry between each, then hand rub in some Kiwi neutral polish and buff. Mike

[marine mp]

Is the Leather Sheen or Satin Sheen waterproof??? Also, do you believe it is a better finish than resolene on a holster?? Thanks. Semper-fi MIke

[particle]

Fiebing's Leather Sheen and Tandy's (Eco-Flo) Satin Sheen are both entirely different products. Leather Sheen is wax-based, while Satin Sheen is acrylic-based. Resolene is also acrylic-based.

Satin Sheen is "water repellent", and Resolene is "water resistant" - at least that's the way the respective companies market their product. Resolene is much more glossy than Satin Sheen.

Fiebing's has two versions of Leather Sheen - an aerosol and a liquid. The liquid description specifically says it's water resistant, while the aerosol does not.

[BanjoMan]

Everyone has a different method of dying and finshing that they prefer, you just have to play around with it to figure out what works for you. Lobo recently posted a topic on his method of building a pancake holster from start to finish. In his post, he gave some really good tips on finishing a holster and what products he uses. The first thing you need to decide is if you want your holster to have a glossy finish or more of a matte finish. This will determine what type of sealer you need to use. I am under the impression that no product is completely "waterproof", but most acrylics are water resistant. EcoFlo satin sheen will give you a satin, almost flat finish and still protect the leather from moisture. Fiebing's resolene and EcoFlo super sheen both result in a high gloss finish and will also protect the leather from moisture. First, dye the leather with your choice of dye. Fiebing's makes some really good products that penetrate and cover really well. A good quality dye such as this will make a BIG difference. Now would also be a good time to apply Edge Kote if you are planning on using it. After dying, but before applying your choice of sealer, it is a good idea to apply a thorough coat of neatsfoot oil to help put some natural moisture back into the leather before sealing it off permanately. Make sure to let the neatsfoot oil soak in and settle (approxiamtely 24 hrs.) before sealing. After sealing and letting dry (another 12-24 hrs.) you can leave it alone and call it done, or you can apply a coat of Kiwi neutral shoe polish. The shoe polish will give you a nice, waxy topcoat and it will also subdue your sealer a little if you wind up with more of a gloss than you were going for. As far as your best method for applying all products listed above, it is completely up to you. A lot of people spray their dyes and finishes, and this is probably the best way to get even, consistent coverage. But, everyone is not set up yet with a spray rig or may not have a good area to use one. In any case, you can apply most dyes with a dauber and achieve excellent results with a little practice. Neatsfoot oil should be applied with a clean rag. Most acrylic sealers can be applied well with a damp sponge and Kiwi shoe polish should be applied and buffed with a clean rag or terry cloth. The best advice that I was given and can pass on is to take some scrap peices and EXPIRIMENT! It's a lot better to mess up a scrap peice of leather than to mess up a completed holster! Good luck!

[jlaudio29]

Thanks for the tips guys, I went and got some super shene today and some neasfoot oil, going to play around with in on some scraps. May end up having to buy some satin shene too since i dont always want a glossy finish.

[bigo5552000]

well my method is much similar..I use Eco-Flo Super Shene. I get a sponge and wet it the squeeze all the water out so that is just damp. Then, I put the sponge over the open top of the Eco-flow and turn the bottle over 4-5 times to make sure the sponge has absorbed it. Then I wipe it on the holster. If any bubbles occur I use the other side of the sponge, with no Eco-Flow on it, and gently wipe over the bubbles to remove them. Don't press to hard or you will rub off what you just applied. I do this to the font sides and back. Then repeat on the front back and sides 4-5. I don't wait between coats just keep laying them over and over. Its VERY easy and FAST. Here are some pics of holsters that I've done that on.

[jlaudio29]

Thanks for the help big. Im waiting for the oil to dry over night and i will give it a shot tomorrow!

[BConklin]

if you're looking for a cheap way to spray your finishes (and dyes if you want) try a Preval sprayer. It's an aerosol can that you attach a small jar to. Fill the jar with eco flow or resolene, or mop and glo and water...etc and spray your work. They're readily available at hardware stores - Home Depot included, and they're not expensive at all- less than $10. One can is good for two or three holsters anyway.

I like them especially for dyeing as they give you good control. You can thin the dye down and spray nice even coats until you get the right level of coloring you want. Just remember to wear a respirator....clouds of Fieblings thinned with denatured alchohol are not something you want to breathe in.

[Dwight]

One of the ladies on here gave out a neat recipe: 1/2 neatsfoot oil, . . . 1/2 virgin beeswax (by weight, not volume), . . . put in a container in boiling water, . . . leave it in there until it gets all mixed up real good, . . . pour it into small plastic bowls or someting similar (I used the tops off Country Time Lemonade containers).

Put it on like Kiwi shoe polish, . . . buff it, . . . beautiful. It is inexpensive, . . . easy to make, . . . stores indefinitely, . . . and very easy to redo whenever you want to.

May God bless,

Dwight