"non-Standard" Things You Use?

[Gawdzilla]

I cheat happily when given the chance. For example, I find that Sharpie Extra-Fine Point markers can fix small errors in dyeing nicely. I think I have every color they make now, plus some from similar markers by other companies. Obviously not useful for large areas, but they can fill in when I'm dreading getting too close to another color.

What's your favorite cheater?

[wildrose]

I love Sharpies too! I've also used leather dyes/stains on wood boxes.

[Randy Cornelius]

I use Polycoat wood finsh (water base) as an edge dressing.

Edited February 9, 2011 by Randy Cornelius

[Historybuff]

All my stitch markers and awls are made from either two, three or four pronged forks from the early 19th to early 20th century. I remove the center prong from a three pronged fork and use the fork for a wide stitch spacer and the prong for a sewing awl. Cut the prongs down on a four prong fork and I have a 5 to the inch stitch spacer. For heavy leather I use an awl made from a sharpened copper rod glued into a piece of antler. I make my own leather knives either on my forge or from old straight razors I run across and i have made my own bone needles but must confess I really like the steel ones. I do however have some very old iron needles that I use occasonaly just for grins. I use either hide or fish glue for gluing leather and make my own water proofing/conditioner from beeswax and mineral oil. I have even made my own sinew thread sometimes.

My wife and I are both living historians and enjoy the 1750-1814 time frame.

[Gawdzilla]

When I have a very long line of holes to mark I put nails appropriately spaced into a block of wood and put a strip of bar stock on top of that. Then I screw the bar stock to the wood. Then all I have to do is rap the bar stock to mark the holes. This had worked for up to twenty holes, never needed to take beyond that. It gives straight lines too. You should make sure your nails are all the same length by turning them upside down in a line and putting a level on them. (Stagger them slightly to support the level and look for any light between the nail and the level.) These can be made permanent for "popular" patterns, but don't be like me, write what they're for on the wood.

[Gawdzilla]

A round pizza cutter makes nice straight "scribed" lines when teamed with a metal ruler. Filing notches out at regular intervals leaves a clearly defined spot for punching as well.

[Wayward Shrimp]

I have a small apartment and love to use things for as many purposes as I can (in addition to too many hobbies). My small tools and notions are stored in cleaned out glass food jars, altoids tins (MY FAV!) and Dice Boxes. I like to cross pollinate with some other hobbies. I use sculpting and resin casting tools along with leather-shaping spoons. I have a dental pick to mark,press corners, pull out tucked things and pull out stitches when I screw up.

I have made some small stamps from Sculpey (i.e. logo) They aren't too durable but way cheaper than having a real one made! I made the master mold and make a new one each time the old one wears out.

My favorite is my table. I don't have a marble block. I used a granite floor tile for awhile (12x12) but it was way too small. Now I have 2.5'x3' slab of 2" bullet proof glass (its some sort of dense acrylic). I screwed some 9oz leather scraps onto either end for handles and can 'move it' when I need. (Its really heavy tho 50-75lbs i would guess) It sets on a end table and works great for stamping, staining, paper mache, painting, sculpting and as a coffee table. A little windex and clean up is a breeze. Probably not ideal but way lighter than the similarly sized granite counter-top, and less noticeable propped against the wall.

[King's X]

I use an thin metal letter opener to hold down the leather that I have just glued so I can brush glue to other parts. I got tired of getting glue on my fingers. It works like a charm and I had an extra laying around, so why not.

Good question.

[Gawdzilla]

I use bulldog clips to hold glued items until they dry. Two scraps of leather keep them from dimpling the leather.

Wayward Shrimp, I just bought four granite floor tiles, total $20.00 from Lowes. I can stack them if I have a small item and spread them out if I have a larger item.

When I have a "wrap around" item that needs glued I use cable ties to keep it in place.

[Johnny B]

From a post I made over in the How Do I Do That section:

Well todays lesson I learned to use something as simple as wax paper will make my life so much simpler. When I make holsters I use Weldwood Gel Contact cement to glue the halves to gather. As anyone knows that use contact cement you really have to be careful to align the two halves or the halves will be glued up wrong. I was making a holster for a Ruger Blackhawk and a light went off in my head. Why not put a piece of wax paper between the two halves, align the halves where I want them then slide the wax paper out. As I slid the paper out the contact cement did its job and now I have a perfectly aligned edge on my holster. Geese even at 60 I still can learn new tricks.

[Gawdzilla]

Johnny, I keep a role of waxed paper and a roll of aluminum foil within reach all the time. When I glue my hat brims together I cut the waxed paper into the shape of the brim and then slice it into pie-shaped section. I can pull these out one at a time to keep everything together.

Oh, and a kitchen rolling pin is great for making sure you have a tight bond between two flat pieces of leather when gluing. Teflon rolling pin if you have the funds.

[Johnny B]

Johnny, I keep a role of waxed paper and a roll of aluminum foil within reach all the time. When I glue my hat brims together I cut the waxed paper into the shape of the brim and then slice it into pie-shaped section. I can pull these out one at a time to keep everything together.

Oh, and a kitchen rolling pin is great for making sure you have a tight bond between two flat pieces of leather when gluing. Teflon rolling pin if you have the funds.

I have a rolling pin for large areas and I use a small hand roller that is supposed to be used for laminating counter tops, on smaller areas.

"Sharpies" my best friend. I use them for many uses. The big fat ones are great for forming leather around guns. I also use the big fat ones for coloring the edges of my holsters. I use mostly black for this purpose and I get a nice black to my edges. I have also used the same color sharpie, as close as I can get it, to outline something or to make accent lines on my leather.

When stitching some of my holsters or knife sheaths I use a real heavy white waxed nylon cord and the sharpie fine points work great for coloring this to match my stains.

One thing I love about leather work is that you are only limitations is how far your imagination will let you be.

Edited February 20, 2011 by Johnny B

[Hilly]

When cleaning up beveling lines or tool marks after the carving has dried, I use a very small paint brush loaded with water on just the areas I need to work. Keeps from getting the rest of the piece damp, and risk the impressions fading.