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Posted

Anytime you apply dye, you should buff it (you'll have to experiment with dye + conditioner like oil or lexol to see which way you like....there's lots of info here). Allow it to dry between coats if you're doing more than one. I use a 'box o' rags' from the local boxmart or Lowes, paint dept. It's really nothing more than t-shirt scrap material. I like it because it's soft, has a fine weave, and is white which shows any color transfer as you rub/buff with it. You need to buff it to get rid of any solid particles from the dye that aren't dissolved or didn't get absorbed. Keep buffing until there no transfer. After that I apply a coating of my super-secret-can't-tell-anybody-about-it-or-the-leatherati-will-come-and-get-me homemade version of resolene.

It's Mop-n-Glo. You can cut it with water if you want to, just be aware that it's already pretty thin. I swap back and forth between straight from the bottle and 50/50 mix. Kinda depends on what I'm putting it on. Y'all don't thank me, I got the idea from this forum....I think Katsass has posted a couple of sheaths that are done it. I tried it on a multi-tool sheath and it works very well.

Thanks. I knew about the buffing the leather to remove excess dye when you're done. But wasn't sure if it needed buffing inbetween coats. I like the Pro Oil dye as it has little buffing.

If you allow the leather to dry inbetween coats. I'm assuming you don't have to rewet it for the 2nd coat? I was going to figure 10-30 minutes inbetween coats.

For my first coat, I first put on Fiebing's Dye Prep. That is supposed to clean the leather and I believe prep it to accept dye like you do with brushing water onto the leather before you dye.

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Posted

I am also interested in your home-made resolene.

I tried and liked Clear-Lac, but it cause me a severe Dermatologic Reaction. The doctor said it was Contact Dermatitis. I even tried to apply it on belts while in my garage with both doors open, but it still affected me.

I'm looking for the best product or combination that prevents dye from bleeding onto your clothes.

Thanks,

John

Have you tried the acrylic sealers? Like Fiebing's Resolene, or Eco-Flo Satin shene or Gloss shene. Angelus also makes some acrylic sealers as well. I believe the acrylic sealers are the most popular as I believe they are more permanent than other types of top coats.

I say it would be nice to figure out what name brand leather belt makers use to seal their belts, as I've never had a store bought leather belt bleed dye.

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Posted

I guess I'm getting alittle confused. I use Fiebings Pro Oil (dip for about 10-12 seconds let dry overnight). Then buff and seal with Atoms Wax. Buff again, and then a coat of Bag Kote for the final coat. My problem is that I am having some belts start to crack.

My question is: Can you use Resolene 50/50 as a final coat and do away with the Bag Kote ? The Mop-N-Glo, I am not familiar with at all.

Thanks in advance for any information.

Have you tried the acrylic sealers? Like Fiebing's Resolene, or Eco-Flo Satin shene or Gloss shene. Angelus also makes some acrylic sealers as well. I believe the acrylic sealers are the most popular as I believe they are more permanent than other types of top coats.

I say it would be nice to figure out what name brand leather belt makers use to seal their belts, as I've never had a store bought leather belt bleed dye.

NRA Member

Certified Firearms Instructor

www.agcustomgunleather.com

  • Members
Posted

I guess I'm getting alittle confused. I use Fiebings Pro Oil (dip for about 10-12 seconds let dry overnight). Then buff and seal with Atoms Wax. Buff again, and then a coat of Bag Kote for the final coat. My problem is that I am having some belts start to crack.

My question is: Can you use Resolene 50/50 as a final coat and do away with the Bag Kote ? The Mop-N-Glo, I am not familiar with at all.

Thanks in advance for any information.

I think alot of people just put on the acrylic sealers like Resolene after they dye.

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Posted

That would work fine for me - if it works. I guess I've got 10 or 15 different finish coating products and would love to find just one that I could count on.

Thanks for all your help.

NRA Member

Certified Firearms Instructor

www.agcustomgunleather.com

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Posted

Im still a total newb, but doesnt waxing the belt before applying the sealant cause a condition where the sealant doesnt really "adhere" to the belt? Possible thats whats causing the cracking?

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