How Do I Do. . . Well, Everything?

[JetSmooth]

So, this is my first post. I haven't done any leatherwork since maybe the cub scouts. I find myself wanting/needing a new wallet and have been looking at some of the more industrial styles like Corter, Saddleback, Hollows, etc. However, I want to do a few unique things like an exterior window (no plastic) for my train ticket and an outside pocket to put my SmartTrip (Like an oyster card) in it. So I figured I might as well look into making my own. Come tom find out, the Army base near me has a craft shop, including a leather shop. So I thought it might be a good wya to get started.

Checking out this forum has given me a little bit of a bug and now I can see a few other projects I might want to undertake (reinforcing a leather satchel I bought in Mexico, lunch bag, etc,)

So here's my first question: I want the external card pockets for my Ticket and SmartCard. What sort of seam allowance should I shoot forbetween the sticthing and edge of the card/ticket? That is, if my card ids 3 3/8 wide, how wide should the pocket be? I don't plan to ever put more than one card or ticket in the pocket and I'd like them to stay snug.

I'll create other threads when I encounter other issues, I'm sure.

Edited February 17, 2011 by JetSmooth

[Randy Cornelius]

Not knowing how thick they are, guessing about the thickness of a credit card I would say to allow for 1/8 inch all the way around so it's not too tight and another 1/8 inch for a stitch line = 1/4 inch each side.

[JetSmooth]

Not knowing how thick they are, guessing about the thickness of a credit card I would say to allow for 1/8 inch all the way around so it's not too tight and another 1/8 inch for a stitch line = 1/4 inch each side.

The ticket's literally a piece of stiff paper, not even cardstock. The SmartTrip card is just about the same as a credit card. I'm sure it depends on the thickness of the leather as well. But I'll start with 1/8 inch and see how it goes.

thanks!

I actually was planning on applying the pocket to the outside of the wallet with the opening on the outside. But now I'm wondering if I would even be better to put it on the inside. When I actually embark on this project, I'll definitely try to get some step-by-steps.

[particle]

You'll want plenty of seam allowance to make sure the paper ticket slides in easily. If I were you, I'd leave the window on the outside (if that's what you're after), make it a clam-shell design, and put the slot to insert the card on the interior so you have to open the wallet to insert the ticket, but it's visible from the outside. If you made your slots parallel to the fold in the wallet, your cards could only be removed once the wallet us opened so everything would be securely held in place.

1/8" leather is very thick if you want it to fold (too thick). Plus, if you're gluing two pieces together, you're looking at 1/4" thick overall, plus the thickness of your plastic card(s).

Edited February 17, 2011 by particle

[JetSmooth]

You'll want plenty of seam allowance to make sure the paper ticket slides in easily. If I were you, I'd leave the window on the outside (if that's what you're after), make it a clam-shell design, and put the slot to insert the card on the interior so you have to open the wallet to insert the ticket, but it's visible from the outside.

Yep. That's what I'm thinking about doing. Good to know I was on the right track.

Still not really sure about the overall dimensions of the wallet I want (billfold, long wallet, etc). The Ticket is about a third wider than a credit card, which precludes a "standard" size.

[JRodz]

If you have heavy duty card stock or pressboard folders, that is a good material to make a mock up out of and when you're down you have your pattern. Because of the durability of the material you can lay out your stich and pocket lines and erase if necessary. Heck, you can even sew on it to see what your spacing and thread size will look like. I do this because I still haven't found a leather eraser, so doing it on paper first saves me from ruining leather and feeding my scrap box. I know some use regular paper, tracing paper, etc. but those won't leave you with a durable pattern for future use.

BTW, for me, I seem to spend a lot of time on design and layout the first time I make an original item, so once I have a good pattern, I make notes on it and file it away for future use.

Hope this helps and good luck, like some of the pros on this forum say, just keep trying new things, be creative, and keep it enjoyable.

[JetSmooth]

If you have heavy duty card stock or pressboard folders, that is a good material to make a mock up out of and when you're down you have your pattern. Because of the durability of the material you can lay out your stich and pocket lines and erase if necessary. Heck, you can even sew on it to see what your spacing and thread size will look like. I do this because I still haven't found a leather eraser, so doing it on paper first saves me from ruining leather and feeding my scrap box. I know some use regular paper, tracing paper, etc. but those won't leave you with a durable pattern for future use.

BTW, for me, I seem to spend a lot of time on design and layout the first time I make an original item, so once I have a good pattern, I make notes on it and file it away for future use.

Hope this helps and good luck, like some of the pros on this forum say, just keep trying new things, be creative, and keep it enjoyable.

That helped a lot. Grabbed some file folders from the supply closet and mocked up a few designs until I found something that I like. I'm abandoning the external window in facor of a thunb-slot on the interior that will allow me to pull the ticket out with ease.

Also carried it around in my pocket for a few days to make sure it would work.

My mockup is naturally a lot thinner than a leather wallet would be. What's the best way to decide what thickness of leather to get? I want something a little hefty and durable like Corter or Tanner, not thin like the $20.00 wallets I've been buying from department stores over the years. My mockup has four layers. (and is then folded like a billfold, obviously.)

Also, I'd like to hand-sticth this with red waxed cotton linnen thread. Any sources? I haven't seen red in the few online vendors I've looked at. Granted, I haven't started searching in earnest yet.

[JRodz]

Jet,

Glad that helped, on the leather selection I would use 3/4 oz veg tan o the outside and 1.5/2 oz tooling kip on the inside. That will give you a sturdy wallet for sure.