UKRay Report post Posted March 18, 2011 I have to fit a number of zip fasteners to simple purses and bags and wondered if anyone could spare a few minutes to help me improve my technique. How do you fit zippers? Do you glue the zip in place first before stitching? Do you clip the zip in place before stitching? Do you just stitch without any preparation? How do you neaten the 'loose ends' of the zip? What do you do? Any suggestions gratefully received as always. Pictures would be especially welcome. Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
reddevil76 Report post Posted March 19, 2011 I glue it into place prior to stitching. If I did have to shorten the zip, I would then sing them on the ends with a lighter to melt the fraying fabric. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRay Report post Posted March 19, 2011 Any thoughts on the best type of glue to use? Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted March 19, 2011 I don't remember who it was but they said they used double sided tape. Never tried it myself, but then again i don't do a zipper if i can get out of it. The times i have tried glueing i used barge contact cement. But you need to be real carefull so it doesn't get where you don't want it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRay Report post Posted March 19, 2011 I also wondered about using double sided tape, John, but I guess a problem may occur if the item ever gets wet. I have also used barge but being more than a little cack-handed made a horrible mess. Gluing offers all kinds of opportunities to ruin a piece of work. LOL I wondered if anyone had used a blob of superglue or something similar to tack the zip sides in place? There has to be a simple solution to this - but, right now, I have no idea what it is LOL! Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted March 19, 2011 Ray the zipper would still need to sewn in useing the double sided tape. The way i understood was the tape holds the zipper in place so you can sew. All of the super glue i have ever tried pretty much soaked into any type of cloth material and wouldn't stick. They may have some new types of super glue now that will work now though. I haven't tried any in a long time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRay Report post Posted March 19, 2011 I was thinking that a thin strip of tape might be left in place and stitched over... any thoughts on 'glue gun' glues as a temporary 'holding' fix? Essentially I want to speed up the process. I don't even tack the zipper down at present - just stitch it 'dry'. If I could just set up the zipper in some way it would mean the machining would be faster, easier and less prone to mistakes. Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted March 19, 2011 Ray i think that putting a dot of glue in a few different places from a glue gun might work. I haven't tried it though. Most of the zippers i have people wanting are to replace one that's tore up. When i put a zipper in shotgun chaps i glue those with contact cement but i keep the zipper zipped up. On the green bag on my profile page i cut the zipper hole in the leather then put glue on the leather and the zipper and laid wax paper down on the zipper. Then laid the leather on top and moved the wax paper as i stuck the leather to the zipper. I've watched all kinds of viedos where they just lay the zipper down and take off sewing and it's perfect. Personally i never had that kind of luck or skill..LOL. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRay Report post Posted March 19, 2011 I watched those videos too, John. It is definitely faster to stitch 'em 'raw and fast', but I think I've been lucky, so far... I'm going to try tacking the zip in place with a dab of contact adhesive and see how that goes. It can't make life any harder unless i manage to stick the durn zipper shut. Yup, I've done that before. I've got 100 x 5" zippers to sew into some small change purses this coming week and it kinda focuses your attention on making life easier. LOL Any further advice would be gratefully received guys. Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted March 19, 2011 I just though a paper stapler might work if your leather isn't to thick. But you would need to make sure it was in the stitch line so the holes would cover when ya sewed. 100 zippers ( no hill for a stepper ) as a guy i used to work with would say. Glad it's you instead of me ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRay Report post Posted March 19, 2011 Tried the stapler... could never line up the holes! Unfortunately, this job isn't going to go away. It is part of a bigger order and I couldn't get one part without the other. Sigh! Cheers for those kind words, John. I'll think of you when I stick my sewing machine to the leather (again). I'll probably manage to stick the leather to the dog too... The only thing that won't stick will be the zipper - but you don't want those to stick do you? LOL Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crystal Report post Posted March 19, 2011 Hey Ray- Give this (or something similar) a try: http://www.sewthankful.com/CollinsFabricGlueStick.html . It will tack down a zipper and holds it well while sewing. Just don't ask me what to do after that! I don't have that part figured out yet! Crystal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve hansl Report post Posted March 20, 2011 When my wife was working with me at our shoe repair she always glued the zippers before sewing,I very rarely glue them.I guess it really depends on the particular job at hand and how well you get along with zippers.I do qiute a few replacements on English riding boots and they can be fun to get both sides even again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
albane Report post Posted March 20, 2011 I watched those videos too, John. It is definitely faster to stitch 'em 'raw and fast', but I think I've been lucky, so far... I'm going to try tacking the zip in place with a dab of contact adhesive and see how that goes. It can't make life any harder unless i manage to stick the durn zipper shut. Yup, I've done that before. and it kinda focuses your attention on making life easier. LOL Any further advice would be gratefully received guys. Ray I've been wanting to chime in for a couple days , but didn't due to lack of information from the OP. As we all know zippers and there installations can vary widely. depending on the zipper, the textiles, and the application the installation procedures can vary. As an manufacture I will follow the Designers requirements. As the designer I am at liberty to design the project as i see fit. I like to utilize all available methods as necessary glue , tapes, pins,align and sew.etc.what ever the job requirements call for. Naturally I would opt for the most efficient methods. My hesitation in posting was due to the lack of information on the project at hand. wouldn't you know it ? Ray said the magic words I've been looking for "I've got 100 x 5" zippers to sew into some small change purses this coming week " Now we have a goal!!! Ray lets see what your project looks like so we can find the most effective way to help you. Do you have photo or sketch any clues would help. All the best, Al Bane Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRay Report post Posted March 20, 2011 Thanks, Crystal - I'll give it a try. This is the sample purse the customer gave me. It is unlined and made from soft 1.1mm calfskin. Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
albane Report post Posted March 20, 2011 Thanks, Crystal - I'll give it a try. This is the sample purse the customer gave me. It is unlined and made from soft 1.1mm calfskin. Ray Ray, I can't tell if there is a gusset . If so does it go around 3 sides? or only 2 with no seam along the bottom? Thanks for the pics. We are one step closer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted March 20, 2011 Ray that is a piece of cake.......LOT of Cake. i would sew zippers on to the sides flat, then turn the pouches wrong side out ,stich sides and bottom then turn right side out........have fun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
celticleather Report post Posted March 20, 2011 Ray that is a piece of cake.......LOT of Cake. i would sew zippers on to the sides flat, then turn the pouches wrong side out ,stich sides and bottom then turn right side out........have fun. That's the way to do it, Luke! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRay Report post Posted March 20, 2011 No gusset. I'm glad you all think this is easy! LOL I'm still wondering if you stick 'em or clip 'em before you stitch 'em - or do you stitch 'em plain? Come on Luke and Terry - and the rest of you, spill those beans! Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted March 20, 2011 Ray take a picture of pieces before it's sewn. Maybe we can figure out a easy way to put it togeather, if nohthing else sub the job out your cousin Luke . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimmy eng Report post Posted March 21, 2011 It's exactly the way Luke Hatley says to sew it. I made a whole bunch the other day using nubuck cut offs the way he explained, the difference in mine were that I left a welt in the zip and my seams were 5mm (the same width as half a sewing machine foot). You don't need to glue them in this way but adding more of my two cents, I use leather cement if I need to glue my zips in place because you can readjust the zip position and peel off the excess glue when you're done. If you're sewing them into the already made bag and want to install the zipper in you still don't have to use glue. If you want to get close to the edge, use a zipper foot on your machine. 1/ Align the opened zipper face down onto the outside of the bag, the edge of the zipper should be aligned with the edge of the bag opening, zip teeth facing the bottom of the bag. With the open end (the end that's splits into two sides) at the top with a slight over hang to keep the zip flush to the edge. 2/ Sew 3mm or so close to the zipper teeth until the end of one side then repeat on the other side, avoid sewing the bag shut, keep the other side out of the way underneath. 3/ Bag the zip and top stitch all the way around. The trickiest part is going over the sides seams. That should be it really. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimmy eng Report post Posted March 21, 2011 (edited) Ignoring the crap drawing, this is how you assemble the coin purse from scratch. Note: Never clip/trim a zip unless you're going to seal it with a lighter and you've allowed PLENTY of seam allowance (a beginner mistake is to cut the zip flush to the zip teeth). In this case it's unnecessary to clip anything because you're only straight stitching and it's unlined. Edited March 21, 2011 by jimmy eng Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
celticleather Report post Posted March 21, 2011 OK Ray . . . here goes another trade secret! I use Renia Klebfest neoprene glue to fix zips before stitching. The tubes have a narrow nozzle, with which it is possible to make a 4mm line of glue on the leather, and a similar line on the zip tape. Allow the glue to dry. When it's time to complete the assembly, the glue can be re-activated by gently warming, and it then becomes a powerful contact adhesive. Press the zip into place, and it'll stay there while the stitching is done. I tried double-sided tape many years ago, but (1) it's too wide and (2) it clogs up the machine needle unless the thread is run through an oil-bath, which then leaves oily marks on the leather. Super-glue is an absolute no-no! It soaks into the leather and turns it into something resembling concrete! Renia Klebfest is available from http://www.tcolledgeandson.com/ in 60g tubes. Hope this helps! Terry Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted March 21, 2011 Ignoring the crap drawing, this is how you assemble the coin purse from scratch. Note: Never clip/trim a zip unless you're going to seal it with a lighter and you've allowed PLENTY of seam allowance (a beginner mistake is to cut the zip flush to the zip teeth). In this case it's unnecessary to clip anything because you're only straight stitching and it's unlined. Thank you Jimmy I do hope Ray gets it this time....... "you are a man of words" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRay Report post Posted March 21, 2011 Thanks to all of you for your help. Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
