Members jimmy eng Posted March 21, 2011 Members Report Posted March 21, 2011 It's exactly the way Luke Hatley says to sew it. I made a whole bunch the other day using nubuck cut offs the way he explained, the difference in mine were that I left a welt in the zip and my seams were 5mm (the same width as half a sewing machine foot). You don't need to glue them in this way but adding more of my two cents, I use leather cement if I need to glue my zips in place because you can readjust the zip position and peel off the excess glue when you're done. If you're sewing them into the already made bag and want to install the zipper in you still don't have to use glue. If you want to get close to the edge, use a zipper foot on your machine. 1/ Align the opened zipper face down onto the outside of the bag, the edge of the zipper should be aligned with the edge of the bag opening, zip teeth facing the bottom of the bag. With the open end (the end that's splits into two sides) at the top with a slight over hang to keep the zip flush to the edge. 2/ Sew 3mm or so close to the zipper teeth until the end of one side then repeat on the other side, avoid sewing the bag shut, keep the other side out of the way underneath. 3/ Bag the zip and top stitch all the way around. The trickiest part is going over the sides seams. That should be it really. Quote
Members jimmy eng Posted March 21, 2011 Members Report Posted March 21, 2011 (edited) Ignoring the crap drawing, this is how you assemble the coin purse from scratch. Note: Never clip/trim a zip unless you're going to seal it with a lighter and you've allowed PLENTY of seam allowance (a beginner mistake is to cut the zip flush to the zip teeth). In this case it's unnecessary to clip anything because you're only straight stitching and it's unlined. Edited March 21, 2011 by jimmy eng Quote
Members celticleather Posted March 21, 2011 Members Report Posted March 21, 2011 OK Ray . . . here goes another trade secret! I use Renia Klebfest neoprene glue to fix zips before stitching. The tubes have a narrow nozzle, with which it is possible to make a 4mm line of glue on the leather, and a similar line on the zip tape. Allow the glue to dry. When it's time to complete the assembly, the glue can be re-activated by gently warming, and it then becomes a powerful contact adhesive. Press the zip into place, and it'll stay there while the stitching is done. I tried double-sided tape many years ago, but (1) it's too wide and (2) it clogs up the machine needle unless the thread is run through an oil-bath, which then leaves oily marks on the leather. Super-glue is an absolute no-no! It soaks into the leather and turns it into something resembling concrete! Renia Klebfest is available from http://www.tcolledgeandson.com/ in 60g tubes. Hope this helps! Terry Quote When everyone is somebody, then no one's anybody
Ambassador Luke Hatley Posted March 21, 2011 Ambassador Report Posted March 21, 2011 Ignoring the crap drawing, this is how you assemble the coin purse from scratch. Note: Never clip/trim a zip unless you're going to seal it with a lighter and you've allowed PLENTY of seam allowance (a beginner mistake is to cut the zip flush to the zip teeth). In this case it's unnecessary to clip anything because you're only straight stitching and it's unlined. Thank you Jimmy I do hope Ray gets it this time....... "you are a man of words" Quote Luke
Contributing Member UKRay Posted March 21, 2011 Author Contributing Member Report Posted March 21, 2011 Thanks to all of you for your help. Ray Quote "Some mornings, it's just not worth chewing through the leather straps" Ray Hatley www.barefootleather.co.uk
Jaymack Posted March 21, 2011 Report Posted March 21, 2011 I don't know if this helps, but I've used this type of paperclip to hold pieces of leather together to sew that I didn't want to glue. If you line the clip along the stitch groove, and the leather is completely dry, it doesn't leave any noticeable marks in the leather. Quote
Ambassador Luke Hatley Posted March 22, 2011 Ambassador Report Posted March 22, 2011 I don't know if this helps, but I've used this type of paperclip to hold pieces of leather together to sew that I didn't want to glue. If you line the clip along the stitch groove, and the leather is completely dry, it doesn't leave any noticeable marks in the leather. "HE'S GOING TO SEW THRU THE CLIP" .......... Quote Luke
Contributing Member UKRay Posted March 22, 2011 Author Contributing Member Report Posted March 22, 2011 I use those clips too, Jaymack. Very useful and they seem to hold leather better than any other sort. I have a big box of them by the sewing machine for holding stitching and gluing projects together. The only problem is their tendency to 'self-destruct' after a while. I can never seem to put them together again either. LOL Ray Quote "Some mornings, it's just not worth chewing through the leather straps" Ray Hatley www.barefootleather.co.uk
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