Hand Stitching

[Cattle Hide]

I am currently researching what I need to know about hand stitching holsters. A few key facts seem to be hard to find so I am asking here.

I have not done any leather work since scouting many decades ago but have made a dozen or so Kydex holsters for myself and others. FYI the kydex is very hard on gun finishes so I want to move to leather.

Questions:

What is a good stitching groove distance from the edge of the leather? I have seen numbers like 1/8" to 3/16" or equal to the thickness of the leather. What do you like and why?

What thread type and weight do you like?

Prefered tools for preparation and sewing such as stitch groover, overstitch wheel, awl(s), needles (Weight/size), stitching pony, etc.

What is your personal method used for stitching?

I have found may partial answers to these questions, but help from those who have done this work is invaluable. I have not purchased the Stohlman book yet, but will very soon.

I would like a sewing machine, but this is a retirement "Hobby" level effort and $2-3000 is not in the cards. I plan on probably 20 holster a year maximum for myself and friends.

[marine mp]

Cattle Hide,Welcome to the LW forum. The wealth of knowledge here is unbelieveable. I will try to answer a few of the questions that you are asking about.

1) I use a 3/16" border....that leaves a little wiggle-room for error and also for sanding off some rough edges.

2) I use a 9 ply waxed thread that is quite heavy but really makes for a nice looking piece of stitched leather. It is little difficult to get into the needle-eyelet, but the results are worth it ....for me. The "Supplier" part of the forum, on page 3, has a LW partner named "Cowboy Thunder" who has some of this thread for sale. 525 feet for 10.00. Look for the header of "Waxed Hand Stitching Polyester Thread for sale".

3) I usually use 5-6 stitches per inch set up with the overstitching wheel. I drill the holes with a .060 drill bit (Dremel) and finish off with the awl. Needles are #000.

4) I use the 2-needle" saddle stitch.

I hope this is of some help. Semper-fi Mike

[katsass]

I am currently researching what I need to know about hand stitching holsters. A few key facts seem to be hard to find so I am asking here.

I have not done any leather work since scouting many decades ago but have made a dozen or so Kydex holsters for myself and others. FYI the kydex is very hard on gun finishes so I want to move to leather.

Questions:

What is a good stitching groove distance from the edge of the leather? I have seen numbers like 1/8" to 3/16" or equal to the thickness of the leather. What do you like and why?

What thread type and weight do you like?

Prefered tools for preparation and sewing such as stitch groover, overstitch wheel, awl(s), needles (Weight/size), stitching pony, etc.

What is your personal method used for stitching?

I have found may partial answers to these questions, but help from those who have done this work is invaluable. I have not purchased the Stohlman book yet, but will very soon.

I would like a sewing machine, but this is a retirement "Hobby" level effort and $2-3000 is not in the cards. I plan on probably 20 holster a year maximum for myself and friends.

FWIW from a grumpy old man: You have a pretty good list already, ie. stitching groover, a good awl, #6 overstitch, etc. I personally don't use a pony. My gouge is set at 3/16", and has been for a number of years. I only use waxed linen thread, no synthetics, usually 7 strand, in natural, dark brown or black, white now and then. Needles are either 0 or #1's ( needles are sized bass-akwards. The more 0s, the bigger they are) I do only the old fashioned saddle stitch, If you are drilling (it's easier to start and get uniform stitches with a drill) use a smaller drill ...... I began with a 3/64" .(.046") years ago. Bigger holes show too much. Use a pair of lacing (smooth jawed) pliers to pull your needle through the leather. Use the awl to open your drilled holes making sure that you get the lay of the diamond shape properly set. Soon enough you will be using only the awl. Re-wax your thread periodically. Get Al Stohlman's book on holsters. Practice. Pic of some of my stitching. Hope this helps, Mike

[Bronson]

Get the book, it's all in there.

Bronson

[Sixer]

after using your overstich wheel, chuck an awl blade in a drill press and start making holes!

[Cattle Hide]

How about some additional data about makes and models of prefered tools, needle and thread sizes etc.

Please!

[Shooter McGavin]

I still use the tools that came with the Tandy Basic Stitching kit for hand sewing. I'm sure there are better ones out there but these have done fine for me thus far. I've also added the Tandy freehand groover and an Osborne

Tandy Stitching Kit http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Tools/Stitching-Lacing-Tools/11189-00.aspx

Tandy Freehand Groover: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/searchresults/88074-11.aspx

Osborne Awl : http://springfieldleather.com/store/product/1866/Awl%2CStitching/

Tandy Waxed Thread: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/searchresults/56450-101.aspx

After grooving the line, I use the overstitcher to mark out 6 TPI, then, heres where it gets labor intensive... I use the awl that came with the Tandy kit, a block of soft pine, and a rubber hammer, and some beeswax.

I stab the beeswax with the awl, line it up on the mark left by the overstitcher, and hit it with the hammer to make the hole. I stab the beeswax every 4th or 5th time.

After all the holes are stabbed, I groove the back of the project, then start sewing. I first punch the Osborne awl through each hole, then the needles using the saddle stitch method. Sometimes the thread is a bit too waxy so I rub it down with a brown paper bag before using.

When done stitching, I back stitch 4 or 5 places, make sure both thread ends are on the backside of the project, then trim and burn the thread down flush.

Hope some of this makes sense.