seveneves Report post Posted March 24, 2011 I've now built a couple saddles and the one I'm currently working on has a high 5 in cantle. I have seen some bindings that look pretty sharp with rawhide and some that warp and don't turn out too well. I know rawhide can be pretty hard to work with. I'm just doing a regular straight binding not Cheyenne roll. How wet should it be, what thread should I use? Do I compensate for shrinkage? (haha...shrinkage). I was going to order some handstitching thread from Weaver Item# 50-1554 page 256. Is that a good thread overall? Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Brewer Report post Posted March 24, 2011 I've now built a couple saddles and the one I'm currently working on has a high 5 in cantle. I have seen some bindings that look pretty sharp with rawhide and some that warp and don't turn out too well. I know rawhide can be pretty hard to work with. I'm just doing a regular straight binding not Cheyenne roll. How wet should it be, what thread should I use? Do I compensate for shrinkage? (haha...shrinkage). I was going to order some handstitching thread from Weaver Item# 50-1554 page 256. Is that a good thread overall? Thanks. I still put a few rawhide binders on,You will need to wet it overnight and then let it temper back.When its getting a little body to it stretch it on .I take mine on the stitch line about 4' apart and sew with what ever thread you would use on a leather binding.I like 7 cord linen,but thats just me. Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seveneves Report post Posted March 24, 2011 I still put a few rawhide binders on,You will need to wet it overnight and then let it temper back.When its getting a little body to it stretch it on .I take mine on the stitch line about 4' apart and sew with what ever thread you would use on a leather binding.I like 7 cord linen,but thats just me. Steve Hey Steve, Thanks. I was just searching around the internet and saw this tutorial on flickr. This guy just had a big rough cut piece that he sewed then cut later just under the stitch line. Where do you get your linen? Thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Brewer Report post Posted March 24, 2011 I have been getting my linen from Oregon Leather Co.Like the what you were saying I sew a bigger piece on and trim it later with a No.3 forked edger.I do the same with a leather binder. Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seveneves Report post Posted March 26, 2011 I have been getting my linen from Oregon Leather Co.Like the what you were saying I sew a bigger piece on and trim it later with a No.3 forked edger.I do the same with a leather binder. Steve Ok maybe i'll try that. I think i'll have to split the rawhide cause it's pretty this now. Thanks Steve. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seveneves Report post Posted April 5, 2011 (edited) Thanks Steve for your help. Here's how it turned out. Edited April 5, 2011 by seveneves Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denise Report post Posted April 5, 2011 Very nice work. Very nice... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seveneves Report post Posted May 11, 2011 Very nice work. Very nice... Thanks Denise Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nathan Horn Report post Posted May 13, 2011 Hey, I jus did a rawhide binding on my first saddle. Just wondering how you get the thread to stay down and tight after all of it dries? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
