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What Type Of Leather To Make This?

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Hi Ive been reading and researching and i'm still confused as to what type and weight of leather do I use for making a watch strap like this. I went to a local leather shop but their vegetable tanned leather seem to be too hard and thick to turn into a leather strap the one in the image is soft.

What do you think is the best leather? I'm planning to stamp a logo at the back also. what weight is the best for this project? TIA guys

Images borrowed from the net

IMG_4754.jpg

MI1Bern1.jpg

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Just a guess, but 3oz veg D&S (doubled and stitched).

Art

Hi Ive been reading and researching and i'm still confused as to what type and weight of leather do I use for making a watch strap like this. I went to a local leather shop but their vegetable tanned leather seem to be too hard and thick to turn into a leather strap the one in the image is soft.

What do you think is the best leather? I'm planning to stamp a logo at the back also. what weight is the best for this project? TIA guys

Images borrowed from the net

IMG_4754.jpg

MI1Bern1.jpg

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It also could have been split from thicker leather and just broken down in the old fashioned style to make it soft.

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It also could have been split from thicker leather and just broken down in the old fashioned style to make it soft.

broken down to make it soft? how sir?

I'll try it out thanks sir

Just a guess, but 3oz veg D&S (doubled and stitched).

Art

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The only old way I know off was to roll up the leather a keep rotating it and hitting it with a maul. It splits the fibres up and softens it somewhat, in theory anyway, I have never needed to test it

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would'nt the maul leave marks?

The only old way I know off was to roll up the leather a keep rotating it and hitting it with a maul. It splits the fibres up and softens it somewhat, in theory anyway, I have never needed to test it

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I've seen Wickett and Craig make a veg tan that is very soft, Matt said they just tumble it a long time.

If you do this yourself, the leather must be dry and you should use something smooth faced like a shoemakers or fitters hammer. I have no problem hammering on dry leather, either veg or chrome. If you don't have the smooth face (some mauls are textured now), just impact the flesh side. A bit of moderation of force is also required, too hard and you might slightly distress the leather (what I mean is don't beat the bejeesus out of it).

Art

would'nt the maul leave marks?

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Thanks for the tips guys I will try to tenderize my leather now:Lighten:

I've seen Wickett and Craig make a veg tan that is very soft, Matt said they just tumble it a long time.

If you do this yourself, the leather must be dry and you should use something smooth faced like a shoemakers or fitters hammer. I have no problem hammering on dry leather, either veg or chrome. If you don't have the smooth face (some mauls are textured now), just impact the flesh side. A bit of moderation of force is also required, too hard and you might slightly distress the leather (what I mean is don't beat the bejeesus out of it).

Art

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Hello,

I have made a couple of watch bands and have used 2-3oz veg tanned and then used skidmores leather cream before working the leather. I take a hairdryer and warm the leather, apply skidmores, rub heck out of it, warm with hairdryer again if needed, then wipe off, bend the leather and work it good to soften, wont break. I use skidmores on dry, brittle saddles the same way and have good luck softening the leather. In my experience hammering dry vegtan produces cracking and Lots of cussing. Case and stamp your logo before skidmoreing. Tee See oil works good too.Good luck.

Jake

VanHorn Saddlery

Ogallala, Ne

vanhornsaddlery.com

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